Face cuts.

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face cut,kerf cuts, back cut. simple. once you have had a large section rip out on you ,pull you into the main stem or worse, you will be reminded of these words. face cut,kerf cuts, back cut. Sooner or later short cuts catch up with you. i had my sternum smashed, two ribs broke from not following these simple rules. I cut this way and so do my workers or they can choose to work some where else. safety is a habit so are short cuts which do you choose?
 
Most have indicated using a face cut is much safer then cutting straight through a piece. There are also a few major redirection advantages that are synonymous with the face cut. Of course with a face cut you have the ability to hinge certain types of wood and bring pieces to one direction or the other. Also, with the use of an extremely acute face cut I can also "jump pieces" projecting them outward a few feet, this comes in very handy working around power lines. With a face cut I can also use my hand to "flip" longer pieces so they land perfectly flat when they impact the ground. These are all advantages you loose if you decide to cut straight through a piece.
 
I have a technique I use for taking large diameter pieces that I take in 3 to 5 foot lengths that i call sliding. You need a flat drop area that can afford a little bounce. I ve used this w a 3 foot bar on an 088 and 090. It is certainly not a technique for the inexperienced but is the only way to go for quick, big removals. You start the on a decided downward incline towards the intended landing area planning to finish the cut pointing at that area. When about 3/4 way through stop cutting and stick 3 twigs that barely fit in the cut in mid back and either way outward from the mid one. You can use wedges but they have to be repeatedly sent back up to you and they don t need to do any more than retain the opening so the saw does not pinch. Next put the saw back in the cut and start cutting with one hand (yes even with a 090) and put you other near the top of the piece and get some leverege from your saddle or preferably with your rear end leaning on an inside side of your bucket. When just about finished and feathering the throttle as it is about to break increase throttle and push in intended direction and root for good results. You can t take too long of a piece as it could easily flip back over on you resulting in death or severe injury. You can be extremely accurate w this. You must have all stubs and limbs off to prevent riccochet orthis also could be a disaster also. Big risk but big gains in time. Takes much finesse but what in this business doesn t You must also plan for free fall of the saw and swing after cut is finished . Again better in a bucket and not for the inexperienced or weak wristed. Ive done a million times, and never had a mis-hap. I do most of the big removals in my niche area.
 
BY the time u took to put in wedge or cut at the angle it would have been down with face cut and back cut...dang im seeing lot of scary stuff on here..lol What it sounds like to me u are high slicing ,,,Maybe it scary to me cuz im not as much as a ab as I though,,,Maybe im just a wanna be lol....My hat is off to most the guys one here cuz i can see they know what they are doing....
 
Ive noticed that almost every body makes face cuts when blocking down a tree. But you should try just cutting straight though when blocking. its way faster and pieces dont really tear. It works really good, on removels of coarse.
lots of time on a face cut lots o extra energy, unless its large like others were saying i use the snap cut, no wedge, i cut straight thru when the kerf starts to wave stop, pull out and finish on the other side(this is the side where the piece is going) just a bit above your original cut(kerf) the original kerf will close shut, your bar can still pinch if you go to far, then snap it and roll it off, i like to rockit to make sure there is no bark that will peel down into my lanyard if its heavy i use a pull line for the groundies, ps i have yet to try the bbs people were talking about.
 

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