FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[Bedford T]

I knew we were talking about different things, totally different things. That is why I showed you.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[Stihl 041S]

Yes. That’s the area to heat.
I’ve seen strange things when folks do things for the first time.
And I got to fix them.
Ever cut out a 1 1/2” rap broken in a plate 2” down?

I never figured how he broke it but I cut it out.

 

[Bedford T]

That's why I make videos. So no one is doing it for the first time.

I’ve seen strange things when folks do things for the first time.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy

 

[Stihl 041S]

That's why I make videos. So no one is doing it for the first time.






http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy

And I commend you for it. Many thanks

 

[southbanner]

Hi all- I’ve been following this thread and some of the main contributors for some time. I bought some 029 parts from hutzl to repair a few old saws and everything went well- so I decided to try out the 066 kit for milling and large felling. After assembling the kit and running it for about five hours, here are my thoughts.

1) I made myself a threaded puller using taps and drilled bolts similar to the kit one of the members rigged up and was selling. It works like a dream and makes case assembly super easy and fast. 100% recommend going that route vs heat (having done that on 029s).

2) The chain adjuster stripped almost immediately. I made a little brass buffer to tighten up the play- but it was too late. Went OEM after two tanks of fuel.

3) I bought tons of spare parts for many items on the saw. After 5+ tanks of fuel one of the caps kind of failed/cracked and I swapped it out with an extra...no leaks yet from the kit caps.

4) Two different decomp valves had the plastic top pop off, luckily I caught both before any damage. I bought an OEM - just do it like everyone suggests.

5) Most recently starting became hard and the saw wouldn’t idle. I discovered a loose head bolt which turned out to be sheared- probably from vibration. I thought I had extra, but now I’m waiting for a few to come in to reassemble the head. Definitely using a lot of locktight. I’m also going to use a metal head gasket (bought as an extra part) vs the paper is used for the first build.

6) Another note - one of the only machining flaws I could find was the exhaust port being slightly skewed. Seating the exhaust gasket and muffler firmly took some bending of the muffler metal and torquing if the exhaust bolts.

All in all, milling has been a lot of fun. I’ve milled 500 bd/ft of red oak so far. It’s a powerful machine. As others have indicated, be prepared to tinker as you go. Thanks to all for the knowledge base.

 

[southbanner]

Here are some photos to go with my previous post- I forgot to note that I mounted a small tech to the clamshell. It’s been useful for the intended tuning and keeping track of run time- although vibration sometimes skips between modes. Zip ties failed from vib- switched over to tiny bolts up through the plastic.

Also- running a 42” granberg with the largest .050 bar I could find- a 36” forester with a .050 114? Carlton ripping chain. Seems to be pretty well balanced, although this oak was probably about 20”? max- I have another oak that will probably max it out...will report back.

 

[Bedford T]

View attachment 713722 View attachment 713723 View attachment 713724

Here are some photos to go with my previous post- I forgot to note that I mounted a small tech to the clamshell. It’s been useful for the intended tuning and keeping track of run time- although vibration sometimes skips between modes. Zip ties failed from vib- switched over to tiny bolts up through the plastic.

Also- running a 42” granberg with the largest .050 bar I could find- a 36” forester with a .050 114? Carlton ripping chain. Seems to be pretty well balanced, although this oak was probably about 20”? max- I have another oak that will probably max it out...will report back.

Nice!

We all need at least a tractor to get the work up to work level.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[southbanner]

Ironically- working on getting our old Ford 8N back in running condition to skid logs. So far, pointing logs down a slope seems to work pretty well, although getting down to cut is tiring as people say.

 

[jcw74801]

I'm building my first MS660 kit.
I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
What are my options for raising squish to around .022?

 

[William Prophett]

I'm building my first MS660 kit.
I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
What are my options for raising squish to around .022?

Do yourself a favor and check the squish again. Did you check 4 different spots? What are you using to check the squish? The reason that I'm asking, is that if your squish is actually that tight, the fix isn't that simple. Is it the 54mm jug? So, here is the answer if you are getting an accurate measurement. You should (need) to add a little clearance to be safe. You would need to add a paper/cardboard gasket approximately .004 to .008 thou. That would get you in that .020 to .024 thou spot. This isn't an exact science as far as "how much squish do you want". The only exacts are that "you don't want so much that it doesn't run", and "you don't want too little so that the piston smacks into the jug". I'm gonna guess that taking a little off the squish band is beyond your scope (since you are asking the question), and that you haven't put a timing wheel on to check port timing and know which way you "should" go (ie: up on the jug or not). Let's hope that you made a mistake checking it and you have better clearance than you thought. If not, I would make a paper gasket .004 thick and use Threebond 1184 to glue it to the case and then use the metal gasket with 1184 on everything before you tighten it down... .016 is most likely (barely) ok if all other 4 points around the top of the piston are "more" than that, but it is just a tiny bit too tight for me to feel comfortable if it was mine.

 

[jcw74801]

Thanks for the great info.
Here's some more detail...
Building with as many kit parts as possible. This saw will live an easy life harvesting firewood for myself along with my Husq 359. I'm using the kit 54mm jug and gasket.
Checked squish with .032 solder in four spots at once with a dab of grease, no rings on the piston. Results are repeatable .015 to .016 WITH the metal gasket. I knew it was going to be tight when the piston would not rotate past TDC (with NO gasket and NO solder). I'd rather be conservative on compression and see how long I can get the Farmertec cylinder to live. I can make a degree wheel and check the timing but I'll likely just add paper as you suggested to get a safe squish and carry on with the build.
I have both a metal and a paper Farmertec gasket. Both are the same thickness (.019 if I recall). Any preference as to which would be better since I'll be adding paper to gain thickness?

 

[William Prophett]

Thanks for the great info.
Here's some more detail...
Building with as many kit parts as possible. This saw will live an easy life harvesting firewood for myself along with my Husq 359. I'm using the kit 54mm jug and gasket.
Checked squish with .032 solder in four spots at once with a dab of grease, no rings on the piston. Results are repeatable .015 to .016 WITH the metal gasket. I knew it was going to be tight when the piston would not rotate past TDC (with NO gasket and NO solder). I'd rather be conservative on compression and see how long I can get the Farmertec cylinder to live. I can make a degree wheel and check the timing but I'll likely just add paper as you suggested to get a safe squish and carry on with the build.
I have both a metal and a paper Farmertec gasket. Both are the same thickness (.019 if I recall). Any preference as to which would be better since I'll be adding paper to gain thickness?

Find yourself some paper stock that mics out in the .004 to .008 range. Use a pencil to transfer the top of the case profile and bolt hole locations onto the paper. Cut it out and then use (whatever gasket sealer material you like, I use Threebond 1184) and glue the paper to the top of the case. Coat the other side of the paper and the bottom of the metal (or paper gasket that came with the kit) and stick the gasket on that, put on your piston , put sealer on the top of the metal gasket and bottom of the jug and install the jug. I think if you go to Youtube and search Dominant Saw West Hill Saw House make a gasket, he does a video on it. You also can stack pieces togethet to make a thicker one.

 

[Bedford T]

I'm building my first MS660 kit.
I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
What are my options for raising squish to around .022?

Using multiple gaskets is not something I would do. Can lead to leaks.

1122 029 2306 it is a 1mm paper gasket. The metal gaskets are .5mm 1122 029 2301

A trick to get a better read when you measure is to twist two together like a rope. It needs to be tight like 10-25 turns per inch and you will get a much more accurate read than you are getting with one strand.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[William Prophett]

Thanks for the great info.
Here's some more detail...
Building with as many kit parts as possible. This saw will live an easy life harvesting firewood for myself along with my Husq 359. I'm using the kit 54mm jug and gasket.
Checked squish with .032 solder in four spots at once with a dab of grease, no rings on the piston. Results are repeatable .015 to .016 WITH the metal gasket. I knew it was going to be tight when the piston would not rotate past TDC (with NO gasket and NO solder). I'd rather be conservative on compression and see how long I can get the Farmertec cylinder to live. I can make a degree wheel and check the timing but I'll likely just add paper as you suggested to get a safe squish and carry on with the build.
I have both a metal and a paper Farmertec gasket. Both are the same thickness (.019 if I recall). Any preference as to which would be better since I'll be adding paper to gain thickness?

Using multiple gaskets is not something I would do. Can lead to leaks.

1122 029 2306 it is a 1mm paper gasket. The metal gaskets are .5mm 1122 029 2301

A trick to get a better read when you measure is to twist two together like a rope. It needs to be tight like 10-25 turns per inch and you will get a much more accurate read than you are getting with one strand.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

Using multiple base gaskets to fine tune squish is common amoungst manufacturers in engine building. Shouldn't be a problem. If you don't want to do it (for whatever reason), find some card stock or gasket material that is around .024 thou and you have the optimal squish that he is looking for.

 

[ammoaddict]

I'm building my first MS660 kit.
I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
What are my options for raising squish to around .022?

Wow, that's the tightest squish I have heard of in one of those. Mine was like .035 with no gasket.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[William Prophett]

Wow, that's the tightest squish I have heard of in one of those. Mine was like .035 with no gasket.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

All my 56mm have been showing up at .022 with the gasket! Hitting tdc without! Very fun to yank on with the advance.... Not.

 

[TreeJoe]

Good trick and advice. my two 660 were around 35. My 200t get its first work out today, all day.

Using multiple gaskets is not something I would do. Can lead to leaks.

1122 029 2306 it is a 1mm paper gasket. The metal gaskets are .5mm 1122 029 2301

A trick to get a better read when you measure is to twist two together like a rope. It needs to be tight like 10-25 turns per inch and you will get a much more accurate read than you are getting with one strand.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[gary courtney]

The pto bearing needs to go through .040 because it fits up against the oil pump. When I install the bearing I put an oiler without the piston and bolt on the case and heat the case and bearing falls right into the indention on back of oiler,thus it can't fall through plus it is exactly where it needs to be.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I'm building my first MS660 kit.
I've got .016 squish WITH the metal gasket.
What are my options for raising squish to around .022?

One I did a couple months ago touched at TDC. Measured .013 most of the way around, but had to use carbon paper to mark where it was hitting - WITH gasket. I started out to have piston turned down around the squish, Changed my mind and just used some .035 gasket material and cut my own base gasket. Worked perfectly.

 

[jcw74801]

Wow, these AM cylinders are all over the place for dimensions. The thickness of three layers of printer paper is all I need (in addition to a regular gasket). I'm going to make a slug with my 3D printer and cut the squish band with sand paper and use the metal gasket. At least that's my plan at the moment while I sit here at work thinking about saws