FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[ktr]

This morning, I took the saw outside, gave it a bit of ether, and followed the starting procedure.

Several times, I got it to run for a second or two. Each time, it died after a few moments. I am at more than 10,000 feet above sea level so I am not terribly surprised by this. I adjusted the carb a bit - both knobs in all the way, then back them out a full turn - and unfortunately, now it won't pop for me again. I pulled the spark plug to try to let it drain - there's no fuel coming out of the exhaust, so I don't know if I flooded it. Still no bar or chain on it. I still won't be able to do the compression test due to the fact that the tools will take weeks to get here.

Any suggestions for getting it to run for a little longer?

 

[Bedford T]

This morning, I took the saw outside, gave it a bit of ether, and followed the starting procedure.

Several times, I got it to run for a second or two. Each time, it died after a few moments. I am at more than 10,000 feet above sea level so I am not terribly surprised by this. I adjusted the carb a bit - both knobs in all the way, then back them out a full turn - and unfortunately, now it won't pop for me again. I pulled the spark plug to try to let it drain - there's no fuel coming out of the exhaust, so I don't know if I flooded it. Still no bar or chain on it. I still won't be able to do the compression test due to the fact that the tools will take weeks to get here.

Any suggestions for getting it to run for a little longer?

I know the pain you feel. Do you understand running it with a leak even if it's possible can quickly burn your saw up. On the other hand getting it started with a leak can be impossible because of the way the fuel is effected and it's hard to know what it is until you know more.

I am not suggesting you do this but this is most likely thing leaking and it sounds like you're desperate which is understandable.

Remove the cylinder, coat your gasket lightly (or deck and cylinder) with dirko or something like it. Torque screws down let it dry for a good while and try again.

With a leak you can have more than one and you have to find and fix them. I made a special video about this and recommended that everyone buys their tools first then order the saw because of what happens right here like with you. You wind up with a saw that won't start and you are beating yourself up.

Rooting for you

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[X 66 Stang347 X]

Check this area on your cylinder. It’s was hitting on mine and was causing the base to leak. I just ground it so it would have clearance.
If it’s just slightly flooded the plug will be wet. When it’s dripping out the muffler it’s severely flooded.

It’s just hard to answer any questions with out more info on test to rule out possible problems.
If you get it running and it holds a tune then most likely it doesn’t have a leak or a sizable leak to cause a problem. Have you been hit with the snow storm out your way?

 

[Muzzleblastm38]

Any pdf instruction on step by step assembly of the ms660 clone

 

[Brian Ski]

Any pdf instruction on step by step assembly of the ms660 clone

I am with you on that. I appreciate all the info here. There are 2 main threads posted on this site one has 160 pages the other has 126 pages. I am through about 40+ pages over a few hours. Most of them are troubleshooting. The I have the case together and forgot the xxxx. Or the engine quit what do I do? There are quite a few videos on youtube, but they don't give a good order.

I see a lot of different versions. One batch will have trouble with a certain component and then a year later another batch will have a bad part that was decent in the previous batch.

I will "try" to keep a log on the assembly when I put it together. It would be nice to have a sticky at the top easy to find, but locked to keep the troubleshooting out so the thread are not so huge.

 

[Bedford T]

I am with you on that. I appreciate all the info here. There are 2 main threads posted on this site one has 160 pages the other has 126 pages. I am through about 40+ pages over a few hours. Most of them are troubleshooting. The I have the case together and forgot the xxxx. Or the engine quit what do I do? There are quite a few videos on youtube, but they don't give a good order.

I see a lot of different versions. One batch will have trouble with a certain component and then a year later another batch will have a bad part that was decent in the previous batch.

I will "try" to keep a log on the assembly when I put it together. It would be nice to have a sticky at the top easy to find, but locked to keep the troubleshooting out so the thread are not so huge.

The step by step already exists but requires reading the Stihl service manual

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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[Brian Ski]

The step by step already exists but requires reading the Stihl service manual

Thanks you. A little searching found it. Here is the manual for the 660... At least until the link changes.
https://stihl.partsmartweb.com/Catdata/EMP_IMG/STGSTH/Images/SERVICE/00590018.PDF

It has all the info but not in an assemble order, it is in a repair order. But it does look quite complete.

 

[Brian Ski]

It looks like a lot of builders on here. A couple have me a little stumped right now. A hint as to where this bushing goes??? Not sure where this screw belongs, it was in the bag with the flywheel nut. Thanks

 

[Brian Ski]

Ok, Always right after I post a question... Bushing is left rear of the case on the inside... The screw is still a mystery.

 

[Muzzleblastm38]

plate over chain adjust

 

[Brian Ski]

plate over chain adjust

Cool, I am getting there a little at a time. I have to slip the handle off today, again, to get the other bushing mentioned above in place. Over half way I guess.

Thanks,

 

[Brian Ski]

Ok, I have the saw all put together except for the bar and chain. From what I have read, it is recommended not to run the saw over half throttle without the chain being in wood for the first couple tanks of fuel to break the engine in. Sounds fair. What do you do about setting the high speed needle?? I hate to run it wide open to set it.

After Farmtec selling these kits for a decade or so, they seem to be decent quality. I upgraded a couple parts during the build. I went OEM with the compression release and the pull cord pulley. I have a friend that uses this style of saw at work and they have broken the pull cord pulleys before and that is OEM ones. I thought for the couple bucks it would be worth it. As far as the compression release after I looked them over The Chinese one may have been fine.

 

[dswensen]

As far as the compression release after I looked them over The Chinese one may have been fine.

When they get warm, the black button on top comes loose and comes off. This allows the stem to possibly fall into the cylinder and really mess things up. I add this in case new members are reading. This has been well documented in this and other threads in the past.

 

[Brian Ski]

When they get warm, the black button on top comes loose and comes off. This allows the stem to possibly fall into the cylinder and really mess things up. I add this in case new members are reading. This has been well documented in this and other threads in the past.

Good to know... For $15 for an OEM I will pitch this chinese one in the trash.

I tried reading the threads. I read over 40 pages in this thread and over 30 in the other thread. The build tips were getting farther apart.

 

[dswensen]

Good to know... For $15 for an OEM I will pitch this chinese one in the trash.

I tried reading the threads. I read over 40 pages in this thread and over 30 in the other thread. The build tips were getting farther apart.

Understood. Some of the threads "unravel" quickly and go off course. That is why some important information bears repeating from time to time.

Also, go easy on the muffler bolts when tightening. I stripped one of mine pretty easily. I can't prove it, but I felt that one of the bolts was a hair too small in diameter, or the hole was a hair too large, which meant it stripped more easily.

Good luck with your build.

 

[Brian Ski]

Understood. Some of the threads "unravel" quickly and go off course. That is why some important information bears repeating from time to time.

Also, go easy on the muffler bolts when tightening. I stripped one of mine pretty easily. I can't prove it, but I felt that one of the bolts was a hair too small in diameter, or the hole was a hair too large, which meant it stripped more easily.

Good luck with your build.

I picked up a plug for the compression release port in the head. I cut 2 pieces of rubber to cover the carb and muffler port and bolted them back on. I did a vac test and it had a very slow leak. Which to me was acceptable. 10 inches of vac and it dropped close to zero in more than 30 seconds. It could have been over a minute. I wasn't timing it. It could have been in my vac hoses too.

I am ready to add fuel and give it a try.

 

[Bedford T]

I picked up a plug for the compression release port in the head. I cut 2 pieces of rubber to cover the carb and muffler port and bolted them back on. I did a vac test and it had a very slow leak. Which to me was acceptable. 10 inches of vac and it dropped close to zero in more than 30 seconds. It could have been over a minute. I wasn't timing it. It could have been in my vac hoses too.

I am ready to add fuel and give it a try.

Why is the head leak acceptable? There are videos on how to test your saw. A hint...the fuel circuit should have a small vac leak because of the vent. Separately the cylinder should hold tight on both. I find removing the decomp and plugging is best practice. While you have a vac drawn spinning the flywheel back and forth is a good test of the crank seals for leaking. Vac should hold there

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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[Brian Ski]

Why is the head leak acceptable? There are videos on how to test your saw. A hint...the fuel circuit should have a small vac leak because of the vent. Separately the cylinder should hold tight on both. I find removing the decomp and plugging is best practice. While you have a vac drawn spinning the flywheel back and forth is a good test of the crank seals for leaking. Vac should hold there

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

The vacume drop looked about the same as what I saw in the videos. But I did not try turning the flywheel. That sounds like a good idea.

 

[Bedford T]

The vacume drop looked about the same as what I saw in the videos. But I did not try turning the flywheel. That sounds like a good idea.

Ok just trying to point you in right direction. Two different tests on two different systems.

To the other new kit builders there are two circuits you test to make sure your saws is assembled correctly. One is the fuel circuit, because of the vent the vacuum side of the pressure test is suppose to leak down. On the cylinder circuit neither test should leak. Moving the flywheel I mentioned is a good way to test the seals. If the vacuum leaks during that test the seals are leaking and in field conditions that is bad.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[Brian Ski]

Ok just trying to point you in right direction. Two different tests on two different systems.

To the other new kit builders there are two circuits you test to make sure your saws is assembled correctly. One is the fuel circuit, because of the vent the vacuum side of the pressure test is suppose to leak down. On the cylinder circuit neither test should leak. Moving the flywheel I mentioned is a good way to test the seals. If the vacuum leaks during that test the seals are leaking and in field conditions that is bad.

Are you pulling a vacuum from 2 different areas (ports)? If so what areas? Thanks