FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[Bedford T]

If this goes the way the article indicates saw kits are going to be dinosaurs. We think that the shipping is high right now they're looking at four times an increase. If we send a saw several states away inside the US it's around 40 bucks. I know the shipping rates went up some, they have the deals but 4 times is going to be scary high. Chinese can't take their goods back when we return something because they don't have the protection the article describes. So the same will hold true both ways. It will be interesting to see how the shakes out. This has nothing to do with the tariffs.
https://www.freightwaves.com/news/u...n-exit-could-send-global-parcel-rates-soaring

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[Rags]

Hello Bedford T & folks.

After thinking about my air filter issues, I remember this was likely caused by misalignment from the air filter mount. I had repaired the mount, it was broken when the saw arrived & wanted to run the saw while waiting on the new one.
Still I think the foam gasket will help insure a dust proof seal, the rubber seal on the filters seems fairly stiff to me.

 

[ktr]

Hey, folks - just got my kit today.

My local Stihl dealer is the only one for hours (extremely rural area) and honestly, they're kind of hard to work with. They're an hour away and they want me to jump through about a million hoops to just get these parts - drive over, let them look at the saw, etc. For example, they called my order "suspicious", kinda disrespectful. Yeah, those guys protect those OEM Stihl parts like nuclear launch codes, I guess. Likewise, it's a week+ bare minimum to get this stuff.

Unfortunately, I kinda need to build the kit and get to working. My question is - what happens if I just slap it together as is? What parts am I gonna have to crack the case for? That bottom end seems like it might be difficult to get to in the future - the seal between the crank halves, as well as the crank bearings/main bearings themselves. I see a few updates on the kit, too - brake spring has the pin in it, for example. Is it really worth waiting and buying even if I have to go cut with snow on the ground? I don't mind tearing it down again during the winter all that much.

Am I looking at guaranteed failure if I just build it as is? Thanks, and thanks to all the guys who made those phenomenal youtube videos on guiding me.

 

[Justsaws]

The only reason to split the crankcase is to replace:
1. The crankcase
2. The crank
3. The bearings, one or both, might as well do both while the case is split
4. The crankcase gasket
5. A serious inspection of any of the previously mentioned parts.

Assemble the kit. Most of the parts that people worry about are easily replaceable after assembly.

 

[ktr]

The only reason to split the crankcase is to replace:
1. The crankcase
2. The crank
3. The bearings, one or both, might as well do both while the case is split
4. The crankcase gasket
5. A serious inspection of any of the previously mentioned parts.

Assemble the kit. Most of the parts that people worry about are easily replaceable after assembly.

Thanks. Very much appreciated!

 

[Bedford T]

Hey, folks - just got my kit today.

My local Stihl dealer is the only one for hours (extremely rural area) and honestly, they're kind of hard to work with. They're an hour away and they want me to jump through about a million hoops to just get these parts - drive over, let them look at the saw, etc. For example, they called my order "suspicious", kinda disrespectful. Yeah, those guys protect those OEM Stihl parts like nuclear launch codes, I guess. Likewise, it's a week+ bare minimum to get this stuff.

Unfortunately, I kinda need to build the kit and get to working. My question is - what happens if I just slap it together as is? What parts am I gonna have to crack the case for? That bottom end seems like it might be difficult to get to in the future - the seal between the crank halves, as well as the crank bearings/main bearings themselves. I see a few updates on the kit, too - brake spring has the pin in it, for example. Is it really worth waiting and buying even if I have to go cut with snow on the ground? I don't mind tearing it down again during the winter all that much.

Am I looking at guaranteed failure if I just build it as is? Thanks, and thanks to all the guys who made those phenomenal youtube videos on guiding me.

The parts you should get, you can order them on eBay. the piston needle bearing, and the piston pin and trim most of the ears away on your circlips. And you will not need to go back in your case.

Coating your case gasket with hylomar blue will increase the life of the gasket into the next century.

There have been reports of the bearing opening on the case being the wrong size. So dry fit those to make sure the bearing is not lose in place. Before going to any expense.

The Stihl dealer is an independent and Stihl will not say crap to them. Don't tell those assholes it's a Chinese saw it's none of their beeswax. You got a broke saw with missing pieces if you need a story.

Good luck

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[fulladirt]

Hi all, I'm having problems with my oiler system. I've replaced all of the rubber parts, replaced the oil pump with H.O. Ireland pump, nothing is clogged up including bar oil holes. Plenty of oil comes pouring out when I run the saw without b/c.
But it still seems like after I cut for awhile my b/c is somewhat dry and crusty lookin. Only thing I haven't replaced is the tank vent.
Does anyone know the Stihl part # for the correct tank vent?
There seems to be at least 2 different styles available and don't know which to get.

 

[Bedford T]

Hi all, I'm having problems with my oiler system. I've replaced all of the rubber parts, replaced the oil pump with H.O. Ireland pump, nothing is clogged up including bar oil holes. Plenty of oil comes pouring out when I run the saw without b/c.
But it still seems like after I cut for awhile my b/c is somewhat dry and crusty lookin. Only thing I haven't replaced is the tank vent.
Does anyone know the Stihl part # for the correct tank vent?
There seems to be at least 2 different styles available and don't know which to get.

Is the plate sitting flat, in the past that has caused problems. It will prevent the oil from getting on the bar/chain and since it oils without bar that is most likely the problem. That plate must be flat on case.

If the vent was causing problems it would not be pumping oil out.

Valve 1128 640 9100

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[ktr]

Got my crank in and case halves together. It turns by hand, but it's not loose. It's quite stiff.

Is this okay?

 

[buttercup]

It's going to get run in after some hours, it will work satisfactory - though technically it's not how it should be.
Don't get me wrong, you'll be happy with it.

 

[ktr]

It's going to get run in after some hours, it will work satisfactory - though technically it's not how it should be.
Don't get me wrong, you'll be happy with it.

Thanks. I figured it would eventually center itself...one way or another.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

Got my crank in and case halves together. It turns by hand, but it's not loose. It's quite stiff.

Is this okay?

The stiffness you feel is most likely the resistance of the seals. Did the piston slide right in easy once the rings made it in?
Also tap the crank ends slightly with a soft hammer to relieve the pressure off the crank bearings.

 

[ktr]

The stiffness you feel is most likely the resistance of the seals. Did the piston slide right in easy once the rings made it in?
Also tap the crank ends slightly with a soft hammer to relieve the pressure off the crank bearings.

Yes, very easily. And now it's all together and not very hard to crank so I guess things kinda worked themselves out while I waited on my T27 driver.

I am finished but for the dogs. However, I have one part left over, this rubber/metal grommet:

Where does this go? I can't figure out where I'd have missed it.

 

[Bedford T]

Yes, very easily. And now it's all together and not very hard to crank so I guess things kinda worked themselves out while I waited on my T27 driver.

I am finished but for the dogs. However, I have one part left over, this rubber/metal grommet: View attachment 762584

Where does this go? I can't figure out where I'd have missed it.

They have extra pieces sometimes. It looks like it goes on the tank/handle. It is likely extra.

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[ktr]

Can't get it to pop. Won't even start with ether.

Any likely culprits? I'm using premix, 40:1, no bar or chain yet. I'm also at 10,000+ feet and I haven't touched the carb settings so it might be that.

 

[Bedford T]

Can't get it to pop. Won't even start with ether.

Any likely culprits? I'm using premix, 40:1, no bar or chain yet. I'm also at 10,000+ feet and I haven't touched the carb settings so it might be that.

Did you test it?

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[ktr]

Nope. No testing tools available out here, unfortunately - probably weeks before they'd get here. I'm just hoping it has compression.

 

[Bedford T]

Nope. No testing tools available out here, unfortunately - probably weeks before they'd get here. I'm just hoping it has compression.

It is very likely you have a leak. The cylinder being tight is very important. For all the reasons you likely are aware of like not pushing fuel to the chamber. You can check for spark without special tools.

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[ktr]

Any recommended toolkit from Amazon? That usually gets here faster than others.

 

[Bedford T]

Any recommended toolkit from Amazon? That usually gets here faster than others.

Decide on a budget and spend accordingly. My website has a section on tools and part numbers. Just search Amazon for the tool your looking for. I have never seen a kit outside of stihl. Huztl has the case tool. Stihl has the best air gun and they have an awesome kit with all the flanges and so forth. I bought the cheapest gun knowing I could upgrade.

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