FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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Rick Stephens
ArboristSite Operative
I found that with a OEM choke and trigger it starts every time cold or hot in a couple pulls. The high idle being set properly is all the difference in the world.
Rick Stephens
ArboristSite Operative
I was copying from another post of mine that someone else referenced that. I think Harley is also a dealer.
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
I would say the choke works better. The butterfly has a tighter clearance in the bore.
Yes my high idle works.
Where did you get your walbro wj-76 ?Today I had to replace the Hlhic carb on one of my 660’s.
The inlet needle wouldn’t hold any pressure and would flood the engine. Tried a new needle and it still acted up. That carb is about a year old.
So I put a walbro WJ-76 on it.
It idles and runs way better with this carb anyway. Still running the FT piston and cylinder on this one.
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X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
I ordered it through work. It Wasn’t bad with discount but normally I think their around $60
$56 is cheapest I have found
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I tried to order one from them, it wouldn't let me add it to my cart. I contacted them and was told that they no longer sell them through their website, only through their eBay store and they are $56.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/143101591605
Here is the link they sent me.
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Hello folks, hope everyone is having a great day.
Just thought I would mention, if it hasn't already been covered.
I found some of the aftermarket fuel caps with O-ring seals leak. What I found that fixed mine was it needed approx. 1/8" of the very top thread (where the O-ring rests) needs to be trimmed off with a razor blade or knife so that the O-ring lays uniformly around the cap.
Just thought I would mention, if it hasn't already been covered.
I found some of the aftermarket fuel caps with O-ring seals leak. What I found that fixed mine was it needed approx. 1/8" of the very top thread (where the O-ring rests) needs to be trimmed off with a razor blade or knife so that the O-ring lays uniformly around the cap.
Hello folks, in addition to what I mentioned in the previous post I have a little more info. to share. These experiences & info. are from my purchase of 2 of the G660 Blue Monster preassembled saws so I'm not sure how much of it will directly relate to the kits, I figure there is a good possibility.
I have found that the oil tank vents LEAK really well, almost as if they were designed to...... On the first one I used a long punch & drove it out from the inside, this is the way I HIGHLY RECOMMEND if you are going to try & repair then reinstall the vent as it will result in the least amount of damage. If you drive them INTO the tank the body of the valve is flattened & is a bear to reshape, also GUARANTEEING requirement of sealer upon reinstallation, I use sealer regardless even on new valves. You will have to repair the valve to a certain extent no matter which way you drive it upon removal, just less repair when driving it from the inside. To disassemble the valve you unroll the crimp that hold a washer which retains the spring & ball.
What I have found is;
1. The check ball doesn't seat well. The easiest way to cure this is to GENTLY seat the ball in the valve with a punch, check it after a few taps (with the testing equipment god gave you if you don't have a better way) until you achieve a good seal.
2. The spring in the valve needs to have the end that pushes against the ball reshaped to be a little smaller so the ball CANNOT be pushed back inside the spring. While this can be very tedious, (the spring is made of VERY small gauge wire & easy to loose) if this is not done future clearing/cleaning of the valve with aerosol solvents or compressed air will result in the ball being pushed inside the spring never to seal again unless dissasembled again. I suppose you could install a small washer between the spring & ball but that would increase the tension on the ball as well as possibly bind causing a non functioning valve.
I removed & repaired the oil vent valve on both of the saws & repaired them, they both work great with NO leaks. On one of the saws I installed a small (slightly larger than diameter of the valve & 1/8" thick) piece of air filter foam to prevent contaminants from fouling the valve, I want to see if this helps or not. I also ordered 2 new vent valves from a local Stihl Dealer for less than anything I found on the net.... When I brought them home I tested them, NEITHER ONE hold a vacuum which would likely result in someone trying to fix a problem with OEM parts only to find they still have a leak. Both of the OEM valves are still in the package waiting for me to dissassemble & diagnose because both Chinese valves which were repaired are 100% leak free for a month now.
One other thing I will mention... I have started applying a SMALL amount of silicone sealer around the oil slit in the chain guide plate (removing any excess inside the slit after installation) to help guarantee 100% of the oil gets to the bar & chain.
Yes I know I am longggggg winded & maybe a little crazy but I hope this helps someone with their saw. I have 2 of the G660 saws & 2 clone 070 saws, all 4 have MULTIPLE upgrades & customizes that would take me days to list.
I'll quit yappin now & hope everyone has a great day.
P.S. Moderators you can tell me to shut up anytime & I will bow out with a smile.
I have found that the oil tank vents LEAK really well, almost as if they were designed to...... On the first one I used a long punch & drove it out from the inside, this is the way I HIGHLY RECOMMEND if you are going to try & repair then reinstall the vent as it will result in the least amount of damage. If you drive them INTO the tank the body of the valve is flattened & is a bear to reshape, also GUARANTEEING requirement of sealer upon reinstallation, I use sealer regardless even on new valves. You will have to repair the valve to a certain extent no matter which way you drive it upon removal, just less repair when driving it from the inside. To disassemble the valve you unroll the crimp that hold a washer which retains the spring & ball.
What I have found is;
1. The check ball doesn't seat well. The easiest way to cure this is to GENTLY seat the ball in the valve with a punch, check it after a few taps (with the testing equipment god gave you if you don't have a better way) until you achieve a good seal.
2. The spring in the valve needs to have the end that pushes against the ball reshaped to be a little smaller so the ball CANNOT be pushed back inside the spring. While this can be very tedious, (the spring is made of VERY small gauge wire & easy to loose) if this is not done future clearing/cleaning of the valve with aerosol solvents or compressed air will result in the ball being pushed inside the spring never to seal again unless dissasembled again. I suppose you could install a small washer between the spring & ball but that would increase the tension on the ball as well as possibly bind causing a non functioning valve.
I removed & repaired the oil vent valve on both of the saws & repaired them, they both work great with NO leaks. On one of the saws I installed a small (slightly larger than diameter of the valve & 1/8" thick) piece of air filter foam to prevent contaminants from fouling the valve, I want to see if this helps or not. I also ordered 2 new vent valves from a local Stihl Dealer for less than anything I found on the net.... When I brought them home I tested them, NEITHER ONE hold a vacuum which would likely result in someone trying to fix a problem with OEM parts only to find they still have a leak. Both of the OEM valves are still in the package waiting for me to dissassemble & diagnose because both Chinese valves which were repaired are 100% leak free for a month now.
One other thing I will mention... I have started applying a SMALL amount of silicone sealer around the oil slit in the chain guide plate (removing any excess inside the slit after installation) to help guarantee 100% of the oil gets to the bar & chain.
Yes I know I am longggggg winded & maybe a little crazy but I hope this helps someone with their saw. I have 2 of the G660 saws & 2 clone 070 saws, all 4 have MULTIPLE upgrades & customizes that would take me days to list.
I'll quit yappin now & hope everyone has a great day.
P.S. Moderators you can tell me to shut up anytime & I will bow out with a smile.
Good work. And definitely a good thing for kit builders to know.
Your vent is suppose to leak. When testing your fuel circuit pressure vac side should leak down slowly. You have a positive and negative test on the fuel tank circuit.
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He is talking about the oil tank vent. Not the fuel tank vent.
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Big difference. I read it wrong. Earlier he touched on the fuel cap.
chainsaw kits and packing lists
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Hello Bedford T hope you are doing well.
I have to ask about your comment in reference to my post. I don't know if you realized I was dealing with the OIL TANK VENT & if you did........
I have watched your video before & just watched it again. You show that the fuel tank SHOULD hold pressure, according to the shop manual P.85 it should be .5 bar (approx. 7-8 PSI) for at least 20 seconds.
I don't know if you misunderstood my post or what but I am not trying to imply the oil tank vent should hold VACUUM. I just want the vent to seal tight enough to hold PRESSURE thus also keeping the oil IN the oil tank instead of letting it leak out of the saw while still letting air in to stop the creation of a vacuum inside the tank. As we know if the vent does not let air into the tank, which would create a vacuum, this would restrict the oil flow.......
If you think I need to change something in my post PLEASE respond with suggestions as to what needs changed so there is less chance of it being misunderstood.
I have to ask about your comment in reference to my post. I don't know if you realized I was dealing with the OIL TANK VENT & if you did........
I have watched your video before & just watched it again. You show that the fuel tank SHOULD hold pressure, according to the shop manual P.85 it should be .5 bar (approx. 7-8 PSI) for at least 20 seconds.
I don't know if you misunderstood my post or what but I am not trying to imply the oil tank vent should hold VACUUM. I just want the vent to seal tight enough to hold PRESSURE thus also keeping the oil IN the oil tank instead of letting it leak out of the saw while still letting air in to stop the creation of a vacuum inside the tank. As we know if the vent does not let air into the tank, which would create a vacuum, this would restrict the oil flow.......
If you think I need to change something in my post PLEASE respond with suggestions as to what needs changed so there is less chance of it being misunderstood.
I read your first post on the blue saw and rolled over and looked at the 660 and it landed on the post on the fuel cap as I rolled down I as I just said misread the post on the oil. I had same issue with oil pouring out. I wish I was perfect, just tried to help. To new builders the test can be confusing.
I am confused on your post on the air filter, that that has me catching my head. They must have mangled the filter
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
