FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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That would make you sick to feel that hit your boot. I know from personal experience the cross could cause that. I had one bolt break off as I tightened it. Once. Required a new thread cut. What you described all else equal and known sounds like bad bolts.
 
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg It's the farmertec 56mm big bore piston and cylinder. I used the OEM base gasket clearanced to allow the skirt to come down fully. I just popped the cylinder off and this is what I found.
 

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There has always been trouble with 56mm cylinder and you can see how those bolts got hammered.

The real problem now is damage to the crank bearing.

I hate that for you. You might want to order a case, crank and a 54mm cylinder.
 
What would cause damage to the crank bearing? And I'm not sure what you mean that I can see how the bolts got hammered.

I've got the 54mm cylinder from the kit. But I'd still need new cylinder bolts. I also just went back out to where I was cutting and found another bolt head. So it seems at least 2 of them were very recent
 
I was able to turn the two headless bolts that were still in the case out and matched them to the two bolt heads I found. I haven't located the 4th bolt or bolt head so idk what happened to it. image.jpg
 
What would cause damage to the crank bearing? And I'm not sure what you mean that I can see how the bolts got hammered.

I've got the 54mm cylinder from the kit. But I'd still need new cylinder bolts. I also just went back out to where I was cutting and found another bolt head. So it seems at least 2 of them were very recent
I am going to leave it at just that. It's hard tell excatly from a photo. Again sorry that happened to you. To be clear, I think there was pressure at the base that unseated the cylinder. I think that damaged your bearing. Again, that all I have to offer
 
Is there a way to tell if the bearing is bad? The piston still moves up and down freely. I would hate to order new parts unnecessarily.
 
Is there a way to tell if the bearing is bad? The piston still moves up and down freely. I would hate to order new parts unnecessarily.
Put your 54 on an plow ahead. Just remember if it does not last long. In my opinion common sense must be used. Those bolts are not made out of rice and it popped them off. The piston rides on those bearings. The piston movement caused the bolt failure if I were a betting g man.

I feel your pain, me saying order the parts was so you could put it behind you and enjoy your saw
 
My trouble with the Cross was very similar to your issue/outcome. Same kind of dependencies.

How do you think you bolts got in that condition? Be objective as you can be.
 
My best guesses would be the bolts being over torqued, or loose enough that the bolts were able to back themselves out over time to the point that it allowed the cylinder head to move up and down slightly and rapidly eventually breaking the head off the stud. Or just too much compression/displacement that the bolts weren't strong enough to keep the head down?
 
Next time you start your saw squirt something flammable along the base of the cylinder and if the idle changes you have a leak. Not perfect. I bet 30% or more maybe 40% chance you have a leak between cylinder and case. It happens that often.. let us know how it all turns out. Hope you have as much fun as most of us do
remember this? decisions made can have an adverse effect on your outcome. those bolts can tell you a lot. if it did not hurt you financially to bad, just learn from it.
 
My best guesses would be the bolts being over torqued, or loose enough that the bolts were able to back themselves out over time to the point that it allowed the cylinder head to move up and down slightly and rapidly eventually breaking the head off the stud. Or just too much compression/displacement that the bolts weren't strong enough to keep the head down?
those bolts broke, tore the heads off
 
I'm not sure what a cross cylinder is. Is that a brand? Everything I got from huztl plus the recommended OEM parts (wrist pin, circlips, gaskets, impulse line, manifold elbow)
 
I did squirt brake cleaner at my base gasket and didn't hear any discernible difference in idle.

Should those bolts have been retorqed after running the saw through its break in period?

If I run the 54mm piston and cylinder on this lower end, I'm aware now that there's a good chance the crank bearing is bad and would cause the saw to fail probably sooner rather than later. But if I was going to order a new case and crank anyway does it really matter if that bearing fails while running the 54mm as I wait 3 weeks for the parts to ship?

Is it just a bad idea to run the big bore kit? Is that the moral of the story here?
 
I'm not sure what a cross cylinder is. Is that a brand? Everything I got from huztl plus the recommended OEM parts (wrist pin, circlips, gaskets, impulse line, manifold elbow)
Do me a favor and take your piston off and put your cylinder back on and make sure that your transfor ports aren't hitting the case that can be something else to look at.
 
The transfer ports on the outside I'm guessing you mean? I can't imagine how the transfer ports would hit the case on the inside?
 
I just tested the force required to break a farmertec bolt in a farmertec case and it's way higher than anything that can be generated by hand. I even tried to shear one with a 1/4 impact and couldn't do it.

There's way too many of these things on the street so I'm wagering that something is up with your assembly process. As mentioned, you need to check every step of the assembly before proceeding.

IMG_20180131_211908.jpg
 
That's not a fair test. You're not putting the bolt in tension the way it is holding the cylinder head down over the base gasket.
 

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