The cyl screws on my HL Farmertec kit are silver, right bolt in right place?
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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You probably used muffler bolts on your cylinder. Silver M6x20 are lower muffler bolts, black M6x25 are cylinder bolts.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
That would be bad. 
I took my 660 out for a tune-up. It ran for about 2 minutes while I fumbled around looking for my tach and then it abruptly cut off. It did not load up and cut off, it just cut off so I knew something was wrong. I suspected a fuel issue. I emptied my fuel tank. Took my pressure guns hose and blew my line out to remove the fuel and then did a pressure test. I had a leak. My leak was at the elbow going into the tank. My local store had one, I will pick it up tomorrow.
I secretly hoped it was not anything bad. How that occurred who knows. I did put a piece of r3 between the elbow and carb. Must have cracked it.
I secretly hoped it was not anything bad. How that occurred who knows. I did put a piece of r3 between the elbow and carb. Must have cracked it.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
For some reason mine will idle and run normal full throttle but and it's a big but if I sit it down and let it idle for a bit then tap the throttle it will die I'm so done with this carb I'm going to break down and get a Tillotson hs-320a.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
I would get a walbro but they want a ton of money for them.
I paid like 55$
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Wow!!! Was that new or used??
Oh, Gees, I screwed up. Not.
I don't know why all this grumbling, Oddjob runs nice.
gchamber
ArboristSite Member
For some reason mine will idle and run normal full throttle but and it's a big but if I sit it down and let it idle for a bit then tap the throttle it will die I'm so done with this carb I'm going to break down and get a Tillotson hs-320a.
Sounds like your low adjustment might be slightly off? might try giving it a tweak to the left to see if that helps at all before throwing money at parts. Before my cylinder bolts popped, I had that carb tuned up so so nice, it ran great
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
IvI' tried its really sesative i ported my cylinder so a better carb is a must.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Never needed one but I've woeked onoa few they are screamers.
smokey7
jack of a lot ace of a few
Im just reading and catching up. Im having a really hard time seeing how the saw that broke the jug bolts would need anything more then a new set of bolts and maybe a gasket. A case and crank with bearings seems way not needed. Im sure the clearance to the transfer tunnels will help it all fit together with no binding and i find it doubtful you will have anynore issues with breaking bolts provided they are getting torqued evenly and to a proper spec. Id bet 25 ftlbs is more then plenty to hold it all together for the long term. I also doubt that using the wrong length (shorter) bolts would cause them to break either. Nice builds guys hope everyone is enjoying the process of building a clean new saw from scratch.
gchamber
ArboristSite Member
Pretty sure 11 ft lb is easily achievable. I dont have a 1/4" drive torque wrench though. or a socket small enough to fit down the cylinder fins for that matter, but I don't think the bolts being loose from the get go was the issue. I think the cylinder was pinched against the case not allowing me to tighten the bolts all the way down, then with the vibration and the expanding and cooling from heat cycles, the bolts worked their way out until eventually there was enough room for the cylinder to move up and down, hammering the heads off.
I think Bedford's advise was more of a "replace all this and you'll know for sure it wont be a problem again" instead of me putting the saw back together, running it for an hour or so and then the crank bearing seizing. Either way, my plan is to try to put it back together with new head bolts and see what happens. The gasket isn't bent or creased or anything, so I am going to install it then try to complete a leak down test to ensure proper sealing. Hopefully all good and I can get back to sawing!
I think Bedford's advise was more of a "replace all this and you'll know for sure it wont be a problem again" instead of me putting the saw back together, running it for an hour or so and then the crank bearing seizing. Either way, my plan is to try to put it back together with new head bolts and see what happens. The gasket isn't bent or creased or anything, so I am going to install it then try to complete a leak down test to ensure proper sealing. Hopefully all good and I can get back to sawing!
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
I really think it will be fine. One word of caution, and I'm not sure if it will matter or not, the metal base gaskets are "supposed" to be "one time use" gaskets. You have three options here, one is to use the gasket and hope, the second is to use the gasket and coat the surfaces with 1184 (that I do anyway), and third would steal the gasket from the other 54mm cylider (granted thats if you didn't use it the first time). Also, if you did use the kit gasket, did you grind it out for clearance for the 56 (I think I remeber seeing you say you did)... I believe you are exactly right, the clearance issue caused the issue and as the bolts loosened up they got hammered off.
