FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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Do you recall the clamp should have 5mm of space between the closures. More and you damage the boot. I will put up a example in a minute. Also the head of the screw is best on the clutch side i think. the side that you can get to in any case.
View attachment 638230


http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
I don't recall and I didn't measure when I installed. I'm sure I probably did overtighten it because I wanted to make sure I didn't have any air leaks. Ironic isn't it?
 
It's bubbling when I pressure test. I'll reassemble and check again in a bit.

I flattened the base, hit the base sides and sanded the transfer buldge again.

The base of the cylinder wasn't exactly flat. It was unfinished looking, like it wasn't machined after casting. Kinda rough like the sides of the cylinder.
 
Without a gasket, piston hits. I cut a paper gasket from .015 paper. I'm still getting a slow leak at the same edge.

I bought a new tube of dirko and, still leaking there. Drops pressure over 5 minutes and a bubble occasionally with soap water over the spot.

I guess I'm going to pull the jug off and sand some on the base to square it up and remove some from the bottom edges to see if it's hitting where I cannot see.

Super frustrating. ..
I had an issue with the big bore jug hitting the case on the flywheel side. Might want to check it out. Had to clearance the case to get it to fita1.jpg a2.jpg
 
It appeared the transfer bulge was hitting lower on the case where you couldn't see it. I had to hold a flash light from the front and peer with one eye from the back to see it.

A little more dremel work. I also sanded the bottom sides also.

2018-03-09 16.19.46.jpg

Seemed to look good by eye. Put the 4 screws into it to square it up and pull it into place. Got light all the way through. I reinstalled the original metal gasket and dirkoed it up. Going to let it dry overnight and retest.
 
It appeared the transfer bulge was hitting lower on the case where you couldn't see it. I had to hold a flash light from the front and peer with one eye from the back to see it.

A little more dremel work. I also sanded the bottom sides also.

View attachment 638269

Seemed to look good by eye. Put the 4 screws into it to square it up and pull it into place. Got light all the way through. I reinstalled the original metal gasket and dirkoed it up. Going to let it dry overnight and retest.

I couldn't wait until tomorrow. Roughly 4 hours cure time.

That seemed to fix it. Aggressive dremeling the transfer bulge below where it's visable and dirko ht with the original gasket.

Held .5 bar/7 psi for 5 minutes with no leakdown at all.
 
Never have seen it today for $204. $255? Yes, can see that - no $204.

Add it to your cart. Checkout, before confirming there is a link to enter ebay gift cards, coupons, ebay bucks. Enter pspring20. It will take the 20% off. You can only use the code on one purchase.

Me like an idiot bought a jacket instead.
 
I don't recall and I didn't measure when I installed. I'm sure I probably did overtighten it because I wanted to make sure I didn't have any air leaks. Ironic isn't it?

I will actually take a small file or dremel and remove the sharp edge on the cylinder where the bellows goes. It's quite sharp (on aftermarket cylinders) if you run your finger over it.

This edge:
Screenshot_2018-03-09-21-15-01.jpg
 
Tested it this morning and still had a vacuum leak along the flywheel side of the cylinder. Slower, but a leak nonetheless.

I think it is gasket related.

I've rebuilt over 50 saws, removing base gaskets when able. The only 2 that I've had issues with are both huztl 660s.
Yea that's weird did you check to see if the base of the cylinder is flat it don't take much there if it's not flat.
 
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