dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you - apparently I'M the idiot who can't read. I appreciate you reading for me!!
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Thank you - apparently I'M the idiot who can't read. I appreciate you reading for me!!
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
There still a big block Chevy that I'm building for her car so that makes things a little more tight for buying ms660 part's but I still manage to get something .Lol
Any ideas why a freshly assembled kit pulls over very hard. Supposedly feels like it has crazy high compression. Will pop but not run. Buddy of mine called after he got it together. I am going to have a look today. Thought I'd run it past you guys early this AM before I head over. Seems odd. The guy who assembled it is typically top notch.
golddredgergold
ArboristSite Operative
Not yet. Should have arrived Friday. Its Saturday now and it did not show again. Seller says he is surprised it was not. So hopefully Monday. Got everything I can do done. Just waiting for the bearing so I can do the leak down test.
hacksaw11111
ArboristSite Member
I broke the aftermarket elastostart cord first pull. They're junk btw.
Also, watch you don't flood it. Had to start mine like the video I posted a couple pages back
morbius18
ArboristSite Operative
Mine took 5 pulls choked and it kicked, then 2 on 1/2 to start.
I turn both h&l all the way in and then open 1 1/2. The idle I'll turn it to close the choke plate then turn it in until it cracks open. I leave off the filter base so I can see it on the initial startup and first few heat cycles.
I turn both h&l all the way in and then open 1 1/2. The idle I'll turn it to close the choke plate then turn it in until it cracks open. I leave off the filter base so I can see it on the initial startup and first few heat cycles.
hacksaw11111
ArboristSite Member
Thanks I'll try that on the walbro carb, it seemed to be dumping way too much gas in, switched it back to the ft to get it started.
Have a tach otw. What rpm's would you guys suggest for milling? Does 11k sound good? I remember reading it should be set slower for milling, but don't recall the rpm's recommend
morbius18
ArboristSite Operative
I used a walbro on the last one I did. I did the same turns to it. This one was all china, it responded the same though.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Bad plug or just flooded or bad coil or meager air leak.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
For milling I would set it at 11,300 or 11,500 any lower it's just going to be a dog and most likely flood.
Sorry you did not get this sooner.
Is he using the farmertec cylinder kit?
My last kit did the same thing and nobody knew nothing. Turns out I had gotten fancy pants and put a cross cylinder on it. The geometry was off and you just could not pull it.
I took the sides off, bar off and set it on a table in front of me and listened closely. I could hear a ping as the piston entered the cylinder instead of a shoosh. So it was off center or something, it was put on a lathe and was given a tiny bit of info and never heard another word.
My advice is do not run that saw. I later found a lot of other people that got about 3 tanks and then total faliure. Proceed with caution.
http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
morbius18
ArboristSite Operative
I got the saw together, did 3 heat cycles and adjusted it. Took it by the local saw shop and a friend double checked it. The friend who I assembled it for came to get it and it wouldn't start.
I took a look at it and was getting a good spark. Changed the plug, still no dice. I removed the filter base and just had the carb bolted on with nothing else. I couldn't get it to start, but didn't see much gas.
I pulled the carb off and apart, screen was clean. When I blew out the main jet, lots of tiny glitter came out. I guess some residual aluminum from the manufacturing of the carb.
I put on an extra carb and it started right up.
I guess it's my fault for not double checking the carb, like I do all the internal stuff for left over manufacturing metal bits.
I took a look at it and was getting a good spark. Changed the plug, still no dice. I removed the filter base and just had the carb bolted on with nothing else. I couldn't get it to start, but didn't see much gas.
I pulled the carb off and apart, screen was clean. When I blew out the main jet, lots of tiny glitter came out. I guess some residual aluminum from the manufacturing of the carb.
I put on an extra carb and it started right up.
I guess it's my fault for not double checking the carb, like I do all the internal stuff for left over manufacturing metal bits.
golddredgergold
ArboristSite Operative
Hey guys. Got my wrist pin bearing. So finishing up my build. Have 2 rubber parts I am trying to sort out. I read in this thread the o-ring goes under the oil pump but I used the little flat sided o-ring the manual call for in that seal. Same Bedford used in his video to. So not sure if it goes somewhere else. Also can't find where the grommet in the right of the pic goes? They double up bunch of the rubber parts in my kit as the handle assembly was already built so that's where I had doubles of everything. Any ideas where it goes also?
morbius18
ArboristSite Operative
I had the O ring left over also. The other part looks like a grommet where the wires go through the frame somewhere. I had other extras too. The first one that I did had the crankcase and cylinder assembled, with all the av stuff installed. And an extra set in the rubber bag.
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
I see pictures of recently built saws with "Stihl MS660" and "Magnum" decals on them. Are the more recent kits coming with those decals? Mine (a year ago) did not.
morbius18
ArboristSite Operative
No, I buy them off ebay. About $20 for the oem stickers
Maybe I got a good one, Oddjob is here to work. Needed something to replace a p51 that's made of unubtaniuom. And I put it together with Hylomar.
Sad update. Screech. Locked up. Not my assembly. I hope to have a look soon. Guess it made it half hour.
