Glad it's running. It's always a good feelingWell got my new ignition, and got it started! Very relieved! Sounds nasty compared to my 231, haha.
Good video if you get it flooded...
http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
Glad it's running. It's always a good feelingWell got my new ignition, and got it started! Very relieved! Sounds nasty compared to my 231, haha.
Good video if you get it flooded...
I'd also like to chime in and say thank you for all the threads and videos on these kit saws.
My first......and second....kit arrived yesterday. MS440 and MS660. Going to build the 440 first and then the 660. Last night I got the crank installed in the crank case halves. Had a little trouble with them not dropping in as easy as I expected after baking for 15 minutes at 240 degrees in the oven, but I got it together with a little extra manipulation.
So far I'm very happy with the kits and am looking forward to getting them running!
FYI on shipping, ordered on Huztl site and used paypal. Shipped to WA. Ordered the ms440 on 2/25 and the ms660 on 2/27. Both arrived on 3/7. So 10 and 8 days transit time.
Again, thanks to everyone who has shared helpful information about building these kits.
David
Wow. You know, you did all you could do there. I would think the clamp was in some way responsible. They are not as finished as a oem clamp. I am sure you had the manifold seated properly so the clamp had to have cut it. Those manifolds last decades. Dang that is surprisingWell I'm back from the dead. Finally got my mityvac and was able to pressure test the cylinder that got fried. Didn't take long to find an air leak.
Turns out the intake elbow cracked where it connects to the cylinder. Which is rather upsetting bc I spent $45 on an OEM one specifically for the durability of OEM lol since this was a major leak, I am unable to confirm at this time if I had any base gasket leaks but I'm leaning towards no.
Thoughts on this issue and how to avoid in the future?
Wow. You know, you did all you could do there. I would think the clamp was in some way responsible. They are not as finished as a oem clamp. I am sure you had the manifold seated properly so the clamp had to have cut it. Those manifolds last decades. Dang that is surprising
The manifold was the failure, that's all it took
http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
Building gives us great insight. Troubleshooting is a little different because we have different variables. It was my belief that we will catch up with the guys that have been saw mechanics much longer, faster. If we pay attention and work hard. That is a valuable lesson, yet painful, very painful. If you step back and think about this journey and your steps before and after, you would be hard pressed to convince me you do not feel empowered. If you took your trimmer in for service and the guy did not shot straight with you, you would know it. LolIt is both satisfying and infuriating knowing that the cylinder didn't leak a peep. Satisfying because it justifies my assembly. Infuriating because even though I did everything correctly, a broken hose ended my saw. Well now I can get started breaking it down and seeing if the crank is salvageable.
Yep. All in all I'm pleased with the saw, even if I need a rebuild already lol guess it's back to the stihl dealer to order up a new manifold and maybe this time I'll grab the OEM clamp tooBuilding gives us great insight. Troubleshooting is a little different because we have different variables. It was my belief that we will catch up with the guys that have been saw mechanics much longer, faster. If we pay attention and work hard. That is a valuable lesson, yet painful, very painful. If you step back and think about this journey and your steps before and after, you would be hard pressed to convince me you do not feel empowered. If you took your trimmer in for service and the guy did not shot straight with you, you would know it. Lol
You trouble shoot your own problem! I love this
http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
That will get the job done.
Do you recall the clamp should have 5mm of space between the closures. More and you damage the boot. I will put up a example in a minute. Also the head of the screw is best on the clutch side i think. the side that you can get to in any case.Yep. All in all I'm pleased with the saw, even if I need a rebuild already lol guess it's back to the stihl dealer to order up a new manifold and maybe this time I'll grab the OEM clamp too
Remove itTested it this morning and still had a vacuum leak along the flywheel side of the cylinder. Slower, but a leak nonetheless.
I think it is gasket related.
I've rebuilt over 50 saws, removing base gaskets when able. The only 2 that I've had issues with are both huztl 660s.
Pressure dropping after 5 minutes is fine. They just want 20 seconds of no movement.Without a gasket, piston hits. I cut a paper gasket from .015 paper. I'm still getting a slow leak at the same edge.
I bought a new tube of dirko and, still leaking there. Drops pressure over 5 minutes and a bubble occasionally with soap water over the spot.
I guess I'm going to pull the jug off and sand some on the base to square it up and remove some from the bottom edges to see if it's hitting where I cannot see.
Super frustrating. ..
Pressure dropping after 5 minutes is fine. They just want 20 seconds of no movement.
http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
nah that part would eat at me. i am reading trying to follow alongAre the occasional bubbles (from dish doap water) from the edge of the cylinder ok?
so aside from the 5 minutes. it holds for 20 firm and for those 20 does it bubble? vacuum behavior?Are the occasional bubbles (from dish doap water) from the edge of the cylinder ok?
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