Filing Jig for loose chains.

[Crofter]

There is probably something better, but I made up a quick and dirty device using two strips of hardwood about 3 feet long, a spare 16 inch bar and a rim sprocket. I bolt the strips to the tail of a short bar and make a number of holes spaced out to place the idler sprocket and accommodate different lengths of chain. I then put the bar into the vise and can work on it without having the sawmotor stuck in my face. I would like to hear from different people who are square filing to see how they are positioning their chains to be able to see what they are doing to get things right, also what they are using if not the saw itself. Art Martin mentioned that you need a much more positive holding system to control movement of the cutterl. That is sure true I find that I also need much better light and it sure takes a lot more concentration than round filing. I can do a decent job of sharpening even a broken drill bit, but this chisel bit filing is not in the same league at all. I can see why people buy a grinder for it.

Frank

 

[don]

You are much further along little doggy

I haope to learn how to square file some dat but have yet to figure out what type of file to buy.

Can you post a pic of the chain holder??

 

[treeclimber165]

If movement is that critical, I believe I would use a couple strips of angle iron or something set over the jaws of the bench vise. Sandwich the drive teeth in between the pieces of angle and clamp down. You'd have to loosen the vise to move the chain, but you would eliminate any slop associated with the bar groove.

I'm not enough of a purist to mess with square filing (yet). I'm fairly content using a round file and being able to sharpen chains in the field without removing them from the saw. I rarely find other people's saws as sharp as mine, so I must be doing ok with my round file.
On the other hand, 90% of my cutting is done with my climbing saw while hanging from a rope. I wonder how square filing would work on Stihl Picco Micro chain?

 

[Crofter]

Don

I have been using the flat single end files from Bailey's. I do find it hard to visualise the slope of the side without pulling the file right out to look. I have just ordered some of the three cornered ones wth the flat on each corner of the triangle. I'm thinking this may be easier for me. Its only an experiment anyway, but I am pleased with what I see so far but painfully slow yet. The filing that is. It does cut faster than my best round filin and has less chudder in the cut to coin a word. The cut end of wood is noticeably smoother. I do not have a digital camera yet for picture of jig.
Treeclimber
It takes a very steep down file handle so would need a quite thin nosed clamp to not interfere, maybe even clamp on the drive tangs. Perhaps Art will tell us how its done. I don't want to pester him for info he's probably already covered a hundred times. He really should write a manual on filing. I have tried to come up with information that explains the whys and hows of chainsaw chain and there doesn't seem to be much beyond the very basic and quite a bit of contradiction in that.

Frank

 

[Tony Snyder]

The best filing jig I know of for loose chains is to mount them on the saw.

I guess I don't understand why there is a problem unless you are trying to do this on coffee table or something.

Maybe I missed some of the point here.

Good luck anyway.

 

[mikek711]

I'm kind of new to sharpening my chains but I think I am learning quickly.What I do with mine is first tighten the chain alittle tighter than It would be durring use.Then I clamp the bar into the vise with the powerhead resting on the bench.I attach a file guide to the bar that holds my file so I can keep the correct angles.I'm just not good enough to be able to do it free hand.I try to make the same ammt of strokes on each blade which I cant always do then I check the sharpness by seeing if will catch the back side of a finger nail.If it does, I move on to the next. I've been doing alot of firewood the past few weeks so I'm getting alot of practice.I
attached a shot.If anyone sees anything wrong with the sharpened blade,
Could you let me know? I'm pretty much teaching myself.
Thanks
Mike.

 

[mikek711]

Picture of chain didnt upload.Going to try one more time.

 

[mikek711]

I think it worked this time.

 

[homelite360]

i made what i call a chain vice. it consistes of two pieces of angle iron welded together so that the ends that stice up are on opposite sides. and then i took a piece of flat stock and lined it up wiht the top of one of the angle iron ends that was sticking up and i drilled and tapped 3 holes for bolts so i can tighten it down and it holds the chain more secure than anything else. i made it a foot long so i can even do small chains. and then i bolted it to the edge of my workbench. but you alse could put it in a small bench vice. if you want a picture just e-mail me

 

[Crofter]

Tony Snyder

That is the idea of the jig, that you don't have to put each chain on the correct saw to work on it. also if someone were filing in the house you wouldnt have to bring that sstinky old thing inside, you know how women can be. Right now I am playin with chisel bit or square filing and trying different positions like nose up 45 Degrees etc., to see what works best. I am basically trying to teach myself with what i can gather here. With the jig you don't have the saw motor to contend with.

Frank

 

[Crofter]

Homelite360
That sounds like a good solid no wiggle clamp and fits all guages, pitch etc. Mine using the guide bar doesnt fit all guages etc. It is a work in progress, definitely not ready to patent.

Mikek
Pictures can sometimes distort so this migh be wrong. Could you perhaps lower your file to get a bit more hook on the side plate. It would make it a bit more aggressivecutting. Eventually you will wean yourself from the filing guide and your filing will be much faster. Its a good way to learn though and sure helps with consistancy from tooth to tooth.

Frank

 

[jokers]

Hi MikeK, sorry but I`m going to muddy the waters a bit for you. I say that you are right in the ballpark for sideplate hook, very little more would be just right. What I see that you need is to clean the gullets out. It`s easy to get too much hook. Many guys like it because it is easy to achieve and it does help the chain suck down into the cut, but in reality the staysharp is significantly compromised by too much hook and it`s harder on the powerhead. Now I expect some one to come out of the wood work and say "wood is wood and metal is metal" so it doesn`t matter, but unfortunately for them ,the science of sharpening tools in general, and working angles, is well known by many. Ultimately it is your chain, their chain, my chain, whatever, so to each his own, I`m just assuming that you don`t like to file anymore than you have to while maintaining efficiency. Russ

 

[z4lunch]

Filing jig

Steve here...
I bought a filing vice from Foley Belsaw. It works well and was about $20
Steve

 

[Crofter]

zz4lunch

Right on; I like that lever and eccentric tilghtening device. Quick and would be down out of the way when in working position. Also grips on the drive tanks so wont interfere with whatever down angle you might need on the file.

Mikek
Jokers is absolutely right in describing what will happen as you progress over into excess hook by dropping your file too low on the cutter. You are very close to right. If you go towards no hook and resulting blunt cutters you have to force the saw into the wood resulting in extra wear to chain and bar rails and will tend to make sawdust instead of chips. That soaks up the bar lube oil and tends to plug groove in bar. That is the opposite extreme. Moderation in all Things.

Frank

 

[timberwolf]

Mike, I'm going out on a limb here with regard to your filing. I do agree with the other comments posted, But I see a larger issue. Looks as if your filing the wrong kind of chain, it is hard to make that green link chain cut well no matter how well the tooth is sharpened. Try some Stihl RS, Oregon LG, or Carleton full chisel.

As far as a sharpening jig, I would think the best set up for filing would grab ahold of the drive link in some fassion to prevent the tooth from roling over and messing with the angles.

Timberwolf

 

[Crofter]

Timberwolf brings up a point in saying that if your chain flops over and tries to escape from the file, you won't get the angles you dial in on a file n' joint filing guide, but I think Mikek has this covered by putting extra tension on the chain. If the bar rails are not equal in height like will result from working with a chain that is cutting to one side, this will also throw your angles off from one side to the other. No use doing much with sharpening if bar rails are not level and groove reasonably tight on bar. Be a bit like putting on perfume when what you really need is a shower!

Frank