if the alignment on that coupler,,is even off a bit,,it will wear lovejoy couplings.. both rubber and nylon inserts........
Well I can't say that I put real effort into ensuring the shafts were perfectly aligned- the pieces fit together, I just figured the flexibility of the coupler via the dampening material would allow some variation.
I split about 1/3 cord with it today, all fresh cut (green) white and red oak. I hammered it into some gnarly knots and Ys, and it pushed right through them all.
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Finally got me a splitter...
- Thread starter DrewUth
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sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
olympyk_999 and olyman are right, misalignment will kill any coupling. The instructions that come with couplings, Lovejoy or otherwise, always stress correct alignment. The coupling will allow a little, but they are really meant to prevent binding and quick destruction of the shaft bearings. If it runs fine for you, no sweat. If it fails early, check the alignment.
DrewUth
Jack of all trades, master of none.
Define "early". What is the expected life of one of these?
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reddogrunner
ArboristSite Operative
I have the same splitter. Good little splitter. Goes through 98% of what I need it to. Good score!
sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
DrewUth, I would expect it to last many, many years. Even running 24/7 it should go several years. If you can see the coupling without disassembling things, watch for wear on the spider. If there is rubber dust, burrs or any other sign of wear the coupling will not last long. Correcting alignment can be tricky and a new coupling spider every couple of years might be the easy way out. Just keep an eye on it for a while to prevent failure just when you need the machine most, eh? 
DrewUth
Jack of all trades, master of none.
No doubt!
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nice splitter!
I posted this up on another splitter thread:
some things I do to help make the chunk yield, when yielding is not in its plans, like crotches and knots: ensure my engine is running very clean engine oil. I change it after a full day of splitting. 6-8 hrs. adds noticeable power, (throttle response crispness) - I split at a bit back of WOT. and I also ensure oil up to FULL mark or skosh over. I judiciously use a lot of 30-wt engine oil on all of my ram's slider edges, in front of and top of the I-beam. to the point it can get drippy on sides, hence I have newspaper underneath to keep off pavement. also, in addition I use a lot of anti-seize on sides and in front of the ram. doing these things keeps the metal from wearing, cupping and reduces friction noticeably therefore allowing the full psi of the splitter to push onto and thru the wedge. helps with any rust, too! lol not too long ago, I upped these efforts to also lube up the wedge and... even, the chunk! often the chunk, as in if its a twisty, gnarly one. I use gear oil; 80-wt. put some in a tin can and with a brush, brush away! really make a B-I-G difference in the overall splitter's effectiveness. stuff I could not split, would not split will once some gear oil painted on... I don't like it when the chunk wins, and always like it when me and my splitter wins!
another thing to do to help extend the service life your log splitter is to ensure you warm it up each time you go to use it. first, start engine and let it warm up good so all internal running clearances normalized. piston to bore, bearing clearances, etc. fast idle is ideal! then cycle your ram 10 times back and forth. this will heat up the oil and help to normalize your seals etc in the ram. once everybody is warmed up... run the ram and split. I know some of this sounds basic, but perhaps some don't know about the ram warm up period. I always do the 10 lap exercise... and have been using my splitter for about 35 years. bought it new. I do keep it inside. still on same hoses, etc. still splits like brand new. hope it helps.
I posted this up on another splitter thread:
some things I do to help make the chunk yield, when yielding is not in its plans, like crotches and knots: ensure my engine is running very clean engine oil. I change it after a full day of splitting. 6-8 hrs. adds noticeable power, (throttle response crispness) - I split at a bit back of WOT. and I also ensure oil up to FULL mark or skosh over. I judiciously use a lot of 30-wt engine oil on all of my ram's slider edges, in front of and top of the I-beam. to the point it can get drippy on sides, hence I have newspaper underneath to keep off pavement. also, in addition I use a lot of anti-seize on sides and in front of the ram. doing these things keeps the metal from wearing, cupping and reduces friction noticeably therefore allowing the full psi of the splitter to push onto and thru the wedge. helps with any rust, too! lol not too long ago, I upped these efforts to also lube up the wedge and... even, the chunk! often the chunk, as in if its a twisty, gnarly one. I use gear oil; 80-wt. put some in a tin can and with a brush, brush away! really make a B-I-G difference in the overall splitter's effectiveness. stuff I could not split, would not split will once some gear oil painted on... I don't like it when the chunk wins, and always like it when me and my splitter wins!
another thing to do to help extend the service life your log splitter is to ensure you warm it up each time you go to use it. first, start engine and let it warm up good so all internal running clearances normalized. piston to bore, bearing clearances, etc. fast idle is ideal! then cycle your ram 10 times back and forth. this will heat up the oil and help to normalize your seals etc in the ram. once everybody is warmed up... run the ram and split. I know some of this sounds basic, but perhaps some don't know about the ram warm up period. I always do the 10 lap exercise... and have been using my splitter for about 35 years. bought it new. I do keep it inside. still on same hoses, etc. still splits like brand new. hope it helps.
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