Fiskars X27 What a Piece of Plastic

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LMAO I remember that thread well. Probably not my or Spike's finest hour on here LOL

Well I will agree with you that it wasn't Spike's finest hour. I never could understand how a dealer would start a thread on the new Husky splitting axe and then dig his heels in against the Fiskars. Even though there is a 99.9% chance that the Husky's head was made by Fiskars. He sold both brands but was arguing strongly against the Fiskars. Does it come down to what name is printed on the handle? Maybe more profit margin on one vs. the other? Who knows. Made no sense then...makes no sense now.
 
Well I will agree with you that it wasn't Spike's finest hour. I never could understand how a dealer would start a thread on the new Husky splitting axe and then dig his heels in against the Fiskars. Even though there is a 99.9% chance that the Husky's head was made by Fiskars. He sold both brands but was arguing strongly against the Fiskars. Does it come down to what name is printed on the handle? Maybe more profit margin on one vs. the other? Who knows. Made no sense then...makes no sense now.
Well part of it was me goading him on also LOL. We've since solved our differences.
 
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The metal is of little importance in a splitting tool that is not also used for chopping or striking wedges.

That is a ridiculous statement, of course it matters. If you hit a rock can you resharpen the tool without the use of a bench grinder. If you hit a piece of frozen wood will it fold over your edge. For people that have to split wood for more than just exercise a tool that maintains and edge through use and can be touched up quickly and easily is of great importance.
 
When comparing, I try to use tools as much alike as possible, ezcept for the features being evaluated.
The difference in weight of the fiskers handle and a wood haft of the same length is only 8 to 10 ounces.
I used an original 4 pound collins rafting pattern ax with an over all length of 35 1/2 inches. They split about the same but the collins was much better for limbing.
The 4 pound double bit keen cutter chops and splits better than either of the axes, but is too different for a good comparison.
 
The total weight of the tool is reduced, for the same size/weight head, which means less weight lifted cumulatively.
The force of the tool is focused at the 'point of operation' - a heavier handle gets you nothing where the edge hits the wood.
Weight at the end of the handle aids in developing momentum - think about swinging a ball at the end of a rope versus swinging a stick of the same total weight: more momentum at the ball than at the end of the stick.
While technically true I think you overplay this argument. The difference in mass of the X27 handle vs. a slightly heavier one of my hickory handles is small, and some of it is out by the tool head anyway. The difference in energy required to lift it is insignificant. When a tool like a splitting axe hits the wood, very little of the kinetic energy stored in it came from just lifting it and letting it fall (which is what some users of very heavy mauls are doing) - most of it came from your muscles swinging it down fast.
 
That is a ridiculous statement, of course it matters. If you hit a rock can you resharpen the tool without the use of a bench grinder. If you hit a piece of frozen wood will it fold over your edge. For people that have to split wood for more than just exercise a tool that maintains and edge through use and can be touched up quickly and easily is of great importance.
I never hit rocks, so that is not a consideration. Frozen wood splits easier, but if the edge folds over you must be using a copper ax, move up to bronze if you aren't ready to get a steel one. I should have said the quality of the steel is of little importance.
 
If you don't mind, I'd like to take this conversation down to a simpler level and display my ignorance by means of a question:

I was in a store today that carries a fiskars axe. It was a splitting axe, but it didn't say x27 on it. It said the handle was 28". I was surprised the handle seemed like totally hollow plastic. It was priced at $49. Would this likely be the x27 ?

The head looked the same as the pictures of the x27 s that I've seen.
also I mean the tag/stickers on it didn't say x27.
 
If you don't mind, I'd like to take this conversation down to a simpler level and display my ignorance by means of a question:

I was in a store today that carries a fiskars axe. It was a splitting axe, but it didn't say x27 on it. It said the handle was 28". I was surprised the handle seemed like totally hollow plastic. It was priced at $49. Would this likely be the x27 ?

The head looked the same as the pictures of the x27 s that I've seen.
X25, the little brother.
 
Thanks. What are the differences between the two?

I'm aware of the x25 but I would have figured it should have said what model it was somewhere. Maybe I didn't look close enough.
 
Thanks. What are the differences between the two?

I'm aware of the x25 but I would have figured it should have said what model it was somewhere. Maybe I didn't look close enough.
Head is smaller/lighter and as mentioned handle is shorter. For folks of smaller stature or more general purpose work rather than dedicated splitter.
 
Thanks again. That's what I thought.

Carry on with the previously interrupted intelligent conversation.
 
One really good thing about the x27 is the neighbor kids left it laying out by the wood pile several days ago and the almost constant wet weather had almost no effect on it. I would have been upset if a wood hafted tool had suffered the same fate.
With the low temps of the last couple of days I'm glad it was left laying on its side. If they had left the handle sticking up it may have filled with rainwater and busted when the water froze.
 
I never hit rocks, so that is not a consideration. Frozen wood splits easier, but if the edge folds over you must be using a copper ax, move up to bronze if you aren't ready to get a steel one. I should have said the quality of the steel is of little importance.
I split where I cut so the rock thing is a consideration for me. I don't have a copper ax I was just trying to think of an extreme. I would argue that the ability to sharpen still matters on a splitting ax because as with any bladed tool it will dull with normal use. Since the splitting ax works best sharp I want to be able to hit it with my sharpening stone every once in a while to keep it performing at its peak.
 
Just a thought, in my experience harder steel (in the range of splitting tools) is eaaiser to sharpen than the softer ones. The edge comes off clean where softer works up a wire edge that bends back and forth as you work one side then the other. The fisker sharpening tool scrapes metal off and is the best tool for their ax and cheap kitchen knives.
 

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