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Personally, I think axe lengths are about the same as ski lengths - everybody is going to need a different size based on their height, arm length, etc.
I ordered mine today. Cheapest what I could find was €79, the x27 and the sharpener together. Have to pay for delivery also (bought in Germany) but it's still cheaper than when I buy it here in Belgium. I'll see how it does, sadly I don't have the price advantage compared to you guys. I can buy a Stihl axe for €80 and pick it up at the shop. But I like the the low weight that the Fiskars have.
Anybody got a Fiskars x37 or x46? The fact that they offer those is a sort of prove that they don't want to suggest the x25 or x27 is the complete tool imo. Comparing axes is probably the same as comparing bars, we all have our preferences
The edge on the Fiskars, after a few days splitting, was a mess- both brittle and plastic deformation. Unbelievable... Junk, IMHO.
I got my X11 today. It's pretty cool. I started on some small pine and maple. I was definitely afraid of it at first. It's light, sharp, and all I could see was it going in to my shin. Later on I moved to some red oak. Shorter pieces 8-10" anywhere from 3-7" in diameter which it blew threw. It's early but I think this is where it's gonna shine. Easier to swing than the X27 and just as effective. After that I when to some much older red oak. This stuff was 16" long and 10-16" in diameter and had an outer ring of rot around 1 1/2" deep. There were very few single strike splits in this stuff but, I split something like 8 rounds before it got dark. The X11 isn't the tool for wood this big, but it did work better than I was expecting which makes it an ideal camping ax.
I did notice that the coating seems to be wearing off faster than it did on the X27. 1/3 of the wood I split today had been on the ground for a year or 2 and was pretty dirty.Not to mention we have a lot of sand over here in NJ. Either way I don't put much stock in the coating.
I did notice that the coating seems to be wearing off faster than it did on the X27. 1/3 of the wood I split today had been on the ground for a year or 2 and was pretty dirty.Not to mention we have a lot of sand over here in NJ. Either way I don't put much stock in the coating.
My father always put old oil (using a old paint brush) on the shovel/big hammer/axe etc before he would put them away. Shovel was more than 20 years old, used when building 3 houses, but still looked new. It's a good way to keep rust away.I wonder if what others have suggested might be true - that the coating is more for show than anything else. Or at least it protects wherever it doesn't wear off. I've started doing what somebody else suggested - spraying it with WD-40 when I put it away - and that's working great for me. It doesn't seem to make a difference at all in spitting ability.
My X 27 gets a coat of B&C oil after every use. It is then hung on it's own special hook away from all of the other implements. The family is not even allowed to look at her unless they have filled out an application to do so, and it is approved by higher powers. Since I am the guy who makes those decisions, I don't see an approval in the near future.
:msp_thumbsup:
My father always put old oil (using a old paint brush) on the shovel/big hammer/axe etc before he would put them away. Shovel was more than 20 years old, used when building 3 houses, but still looked new. It's a good way to keep rust away.
I've been using the x27 for some time now and I'm still happy about how easily it splits wood. It really works well. The only bad thing that I can say it that the steel doesn't seem to be as hard as I hoped. I've been splitting oak and when you have a log with a knot in it, the edge can dull pretty easily.
Here is some of the work I've done with it.
The wall is 40" high, 20' long, splits are 12".
Some work that I did today.
Bad quality pictures, I know. I always split on a stump so this is just damage from hitting knots inside the logs. I sharpened the edge 5 times during the day.
Yea I did. But not sure if I need to sharpen it till the edge is sharp again or file it way back till the every bit of damage is gone?I would just run a flat file on that and then use the fiskars sharping tool if you have one. Likemnew again after your done.
My edge has held up very well, always checking for foreign debris left on splitting block though.
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