Found a decent deal on an 044

[oscar4883]

I finish and start them right up. Used to worry about the gasket material setting up but PioneerGuy has always mentioned the fact that he does not wait. If it is good enough for him then it is good enough for me! LOL I would make sure, as others have mentioned, to hit everything with soapy water. Like Pogo said, check the connections too.

 

[oscar4883]

The tire shine idea. I thing Wiggs is the one who came up with it. For some reason I remember him saying it is oing to take a few coats. Letting them soak in real well. I think anyway.

 

[USMC0802]

I need to get my hands on the hemostats to pull the fuel line into place in the tank handle and put the new fuel filter on, tighten the clutch and flywheel down, and put the rest of those sides on and it should be done.

Is less than .75 lbs something to worry about over the course of 10 minutes on the pressure test?

 

[stubnail67]

cool thread

ive enjoyed reading your thread looking forward to seeing it all done!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Is less than .75 lbs something to worry about over the course of 10 minutes on the pressure test?

If you held vac, I'd be much less concerned about that small of a pressure leak -- especially if you passed the soapy water test with no bubbles anywhere. A pressure decline as small as the one you describe does not mean a vacuum leak.

And air getting IN is what you obviously want to avoid more than that small of an amount getting out.

I will obviously be corrected soon if I'm off base here, but I'd say you're good to go after a superb all around effort!



Poge

 

[pioneerguy600]

You are good to go, no need to wait for the Permatex to set up, .75 lb loss of pressure over 10 min is nothing at all to worry about. Get that saw back together and start it up, go cut wood.
Pioneerguy600

 

[USMC0802]

Saw is back together. I'm going to continue working on the plastics, but I wanted to get the thing assembled to remind myself of what it looks like as a complete powerhead (would have without the pictures I took) since I started this project toward the end of August. I'm thinking about repainting a number of things on it.

So, here's the proof it's a complete powerhead:

I'll have to try it out to see if I like the boat handle starter. It's what the seller threw in attached to the extra flywheel side cover. I replaced the cracked and banged up 044 plastics with MS440 plastics, but I'm going to see if I can swap the badges out. I figured I'd grab the plastics with the opening for the decomp button should I decide to use it.

Now, to start this thing and begin the break in process...I hear regular dinosaur oil should be used rather than synthetic. Yes, no, maybe? I'll do a search for new saw break in and see what I can find about fuel/mix and how to treat the saw.

 

[Brian13]

Looks good, cant help you on the oil. I just mix it a little rich and run it a little rich.

 

[fatjoe]

Come on now, fire her up! I would of have fuel in that thing last night at 11:00 when you posted the pictures.When I get to putting the plastics back on, I`m a nervous wreck(like a little kid getiing a new bike).The BEEEEST part of a rebuild is when it first starts up for the first time.I always use fresh mix that I use in all my saws.Put some fresh mix in her a start it.Let us know how she runs..Looks good up till now..

 

[oscar4883]

Just put some mix in it and fire it up! I would also like to see it sitting on todays USA Today with the date displayed. Not that I don't trust you or anything. LOL Nice job. Be prepared for a couple of little snags during start-up/initial tuning with your first build.

 

[USMC0802]

Just put some mix in it and fire it up! I would also like to see it sitting on todays USA Today with the date displayed. Not that I don't trust you or anything. LOL Nice job. Be prepared for a couple of little snags during start-up/initial tuning with your first build.

Hang ups...such as? I should see if I can borrow a tach until I buy one. I set the carb screws at 1 turn out on the H and L. Where should the idle screw be? I wanted to do a video of the first start, that's why I didn't do it last night. I'm leaving work early to head to Philly for the Flyers home opener tonight, so I probably won't get to it today either.

Should I measure compression after it's run for a while or can I get a good measurement now?

 

[oscar4883]

Usually carb related issues find me. LOL I would set the H a little further out. Maybe 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns. You will get the low side tuned in first so the H can wait a little. Turn the idle screw in until you can see the throtle open a bit. Check the comp. after you run it a few times to make sure all the assembly lube is burned out. Otherwise you will get a false reading. A really rich saw, that still has some fuel in the cylinder after shut-down, will also give you a false reading. As for the tach, I would just tune it in the cut to get the high side correct. Start real rich and turn the H in a little at a time until it clears up when you put load on it.

 

[USMC0802]

Alright, I hesitated to admit to this, but I will for the benefit of anyone else completing their first build, 100th build, whatever...don't forget to tighten the flywheel down to specs.

The saw took a few pulls to get the fuel through the new line, through the cleaned up, rebuilt carb, etc, but it popped and then fired up on the next pull for about a second or two.

The flywheel sheered the woodruff key right off. I picked up a new key last night for a $1.30 something.

When I get back from my 5 hour road trip for w**k today, I'll get the key installed and give it another shot.

 

[fatjoe]

It started, thats a good sign.I always tap the flywheel with my wooden mallet as I tighten it.I don`t hit it on the fins, just on the center.It`s just another lesson you learned for the next one.Your almost done, keep up the good work.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

When I get back from my 5 hour road trip for w**k today, I'll get the key installed and give it another shot.

Make sure your clutch is......., well, never mind!

And on your compression check, a few tanks through the saw to seat the new rings will yield more meaningful results.

Poge

 

[USMC0802]

Does the woodruff key seat in the crank with the rounded side out toward the flywheel or the round side down in the groove in the crank?

It came out with with the round side up, but the manual looks the other way, I believe.

 

[UK heartwood]

Rounded side into the crankshaft, probably why the last one sheared as the taper on the flywheel needs to be a good fit on the crank.

Make sure there are no burrs on the shaft or in the flywheel before reassembly
to make sure there is good contact between the parts.It is the friction of the tapers that keep it from turning.

 

[USMC0802]

Rounded side into the crankshaft, probably why the last one sheared as the taper on the flywheel needs to be a good fit on the crank.

Make sure there are no burrs on the shaft or in the flywheel before reassembly
to make sure there is good contact between the parts.It is the friction of the tapers that keep it from turning.

I had the round side down. Just wanted to ensure the cause was that it wasn't tightened down enough.

 

[USMC0802]

New woodruff key installed and flywheel is tightened down. Now, something new and something old. Looks like this thing is leaking some gas, somehow from the top of the tank. I pulled the filter base to check the fuel line where it comes through the tank and it looks dry below the carb. Here's three pictures:

Thoughts on that?

And something old...the new washer and e-clip look very similar to the one I posted before that everyone thought was so severely worn because of some crap behind the washer. Now what?
New washer:

Old washer:

 

[pioneerguy600]

Concerning the fuel leak, try pulling the cap off the tank vent and check to see if the umberella seal is still in good shape, that might be where your leak is coming from. The E clip and washer that hold the ring drive on looks a little worn, a new set will fit a little tighter fit.
Pioneerguy600