Found a decent deal on an 044

[PogoInTheWoods]

I have a 6" c-clamp I used to press a locked up brake caliper piston back in to replace it. That should be big enough. I'll have to play around with that this evening and see what happens.

Haven't tried the c-clamp but it should play if you can get things aligned right on both ports. I plan on going that route on my 028 projects since they're already torn down to the cases.

Otherwise...

I use aluminum stock fashioned to the same shapes as the muffler port and the intake boot to create a more even seal across the rubber -- in my case, pieces of vinyl cove base (since I didn't have any old inner tube material laying around). Works great, though you will need to fashion spacers for the carb studs (to tighten the nuts down) with this approach. (I used lamp thread stock.) This way also tests the intake boot for leaks and is obviously a more convenient method when the saw isn't already torn down. Plus, 1/4 ~ 3/8 inch aluminum stock is cheap and easy to shape.

And that seal sure looks a lot better now! Props to Fat Joe for his astute observation.

Coming along and looking good, man.

Poge

 

[USMC0802]

Borrowed a micrometer and caliper from my BIL. Don't know if I'll get to the squish measurement tonight, but eventually...

 

[USMC0802]

2 pieces of the solder measured at 0.018" and 2 at 0.019" without any material for a gasket.

 

[oscar4883]

You should be good to go with that squish. It is on the tight side however. I feel more comfortable with a little bit more so I would probably add a gasket made out of a soda can. FWIW

 

[Brian13]

I have read here that your minimum should be anywhere from .017 to .020. All depends on who you ask. You should be safe there. If you want to stay closer to the .020 side(witch is the most common number I have seen for a minimum) you could use a manila file folder or soda can for a gasket.

 

[USMC0802]

Do you just trace out the shape/holes of the supplied gasket on the can and cut it out? Don't you need a material that will slightly compress to give you a seal or will the can give a bit? Any need for a liquid gasket material?

Those measurements were taken at the narrowest portion of the flattened solder. That's the correct place to measure, out at the very edge of the piston, right?

 

[oscar4883]

Look at the width of the squish band in the cylinder to get a better idea of where you can measure. Sounds like you have it though. May want to check squish again to make sure it is consistent. When I make a gasket out of a can I cut a wide strip and tape it to a board. Then lay a stock gasket on top and trace the i.d. with a sharpie. Sharpie the bolt hole locations and then use a utility knive to score/cut the shape. Scissors on a leatherman or swiss army knove work great for cutting out the inner portion. I use a punch designed for leather work to cut the holes.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Do you just trace out the shape/holes of the supplied gasket on the can and cut it out? Don't you need a material that will slightly compress to give you a seal or will the can give a bit? Any need for a liquid gasket material?

Those measurements were taken at the narrowest portion of the flattened solder. That's the correct place to measure, out at the very edge of the piston, right?

If you have anything over .017 on a 044 you are fine, 3 of my 044`s are running .017-.019 and have no issues. If you use a metal gasket you should use a sealer on both sides of the gasket.

Pioneerguy600

 

[USMC0802]

If you have anything over .017 on a 044 you are fine, 3 of my 044`s are running .017-.019 and have no issues. If you use a metal gasket you should use a sealer on both sides of the gasket.

Pioneerguy600

Any sealer when not using a gasket at all? And for the squish, does it matter if it's getting a big bore rather than OEM P&C?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Any sealer when not using a gasket at all? And for the squish, does it matter if it's getting a big bore rather than OEM P&C?

You need sealer if no gasket is used. No the big bore does not increase the bore diameter enough to be a problem. One of my modified 066`s is running .019 squish, no gasket and has 185 comp.
Pioneerguy600

 

[USMC0802]

C-clamp isn't going to work for me until I can get something a lot less flexible than the sheet metal I was using.

 

[USMC0802]

You need sealer if no gasket is used. No the big bore does not increase the bore diameter enough to be a problem. One of my modified 066`s is running .019 squish, no gasket and has 185 comp.
Pioneerguy600

That's what I thought. Any sealer at an automotive store good or any specific recommendation?

 

[pioneerguy600]

That's what I thought. Any sealer at an automotive store good or any specific recommendation?

I have used Permatex Copper for more than 10 years now with absolutely no problems, others recommend Dirko, Yama Bond, Honda Bond etc.
Pioneerguy600

 

[oscar4883]

You need sealer if no gasket is used. No the big bore does not increase the bore diameter enough to be a problem. One of my modified 066`s is running .019 squish, no gasket and has 185 comp.
Pioneerguy600

Jerry- do you think it is good idea to run a slightly looser squish if someone is new or has some trouble with carb tuning? My thought is that if someone happens to be running rich carbon build-up may become and issue? Not talkin about you USMC, just wondering in general.

 

[chopperfreak2k1]

sorry for the thread jack, but i wanted to say thank you to USMC and everyone else for this thread. i have been really learning alot as i follow along. thanks guys!!

 

[USMC0802]

sorry for the thread jack, but i wanted to say thank you to USMC and everyone else for this thread. i have been really learning alot as i follow along. thanks guys!!

Maybe this could be retitled to the "Idiot's guide to rebuilding" as I think I've asked just about every question possible.

I'm thankful for all the help.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry- do you think it is good idea to run a slightly looser squish if someone is new or has some trouble with carb tuning? My thought is that if someone happens to be running rich carbon build-up may become and issue? Not talkin about you USMC, just wondering in general.

I have not seen carbon build up in the squish band area of a tight squish engine, maybe because of the way I tune my saws but even the ones I have built for others have not had any problems with carbon build up out near the edge of the piston. The piston tops usually just look like they were lightly smoked from an oil lamp. Others may have different experiences and if so hopefully they will chime in.

Pioneerguy600

 

[oscar4883]

Thanks Jerry. I was just curious. As always, I appreciate your knowledge. Sorry for the derail USMC.

 

[USMC0802]

Thanks Jerry. I was just curious. As always, I appreciate your knowledge. Sorry for the derail USMC.

Nothing to apologize for, it's a great question as I have mostly seen the 0.020" as the min for squish. Good to know I'm alright at 0.018-0.019".

 

[USMC0802]

Threw the chain brake assembly, inner side plate, and hand guard on tonight before the Flyers game. I'm planning on finding a place to pick up aluminum stock to work with to make those seals work better for me, hemostats for the fuel line, gasket sealer, and some other odds and ends to finish this thing up.