Found a decent deal on an 044

[Brian13]

There are a couple of differnt threads on how to set it up. I use a piece of steal bar cut to size and holes drilled for muffler bolts and carb bolts. I glued two layers of bycycle tube to one side to creat the seal. I removed the muffler and carb, bolted the one for the muffler on. For the intake boot I used the same idea for the muffler with a couple small blocks of wood and used the air filter bolt to holt it tight. And then hooked up the vac gauge to the impulse tube. Hope that makes sense.

 

[USMC0802]

My concern with testing before the rebuild is I really think the cause of the problem and engine failure is due to a leak that caused it to run lean. I ordered new seals from Bailey's, so I'll just replace then a d then test after the rebuild.

 

[Brian13]

As long as your air tight at the end your good to go. Good luck with the rebuild. Hope all goes smooth.

 

[USMC0802]

As long as your air tight at the end your good to go. Good luck with the rebuild. Hope all goes smooth.

I bought the vacuum kit, so I can do the test, but I'm not sure how I'll know whether it's the impulse tube, seals, or otherwise where the leak is coming from. How do you located and identify the leak if one or more are present?

 

[USMC0802]

Now that I placed my order and started digging into the service manual looking at some things, I'm wondering if the intake manifold might be a suspect for the leak. It's like $34 from the local shop. I guess I can do my vacuum test and see if it holds before the rebuild and if it does, assume it's good. If it doesn't hold a seal, should I replace that as well, or should I be able to see any cracks, etc when I look it over?

 

[USMC0802]

Found this step by step process for vacuum and pressure testing: http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=42768

Found Brad's video on seal removal and installation and vacuum/pressure testing: http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=112928


Looks easy.

 

[Brian13]

The intake boot is a common place for air leaks. Finding the leak is pretty easy. I use my air compressor set to real low psi 5-7psi. You should be able hear it leak and then spray soapy water to confirm. Biggest thing with the seals is to make sue it is straight when you start it.

 

[USMC0802]

Took a few more parts off and did a little cleaning. Not sure what I'm looking for to determine if the carb needs rebuilt or not.

I think I've read about people sending the plastics through the dishwasher to clean them. Does that work well?

 

[USMC0802]

Serial number is 131850106...any ideas on production year?

 

[fatjoe]

Took a few more parts off and did a little cleaning. Not sure what I'm looking for to determine if the carb needs rebuilt or not.

I think I've read about people sending the plastics through the dishwasher to clean them. Does that work well?

I wouldn`t suggest the dishwasher thing.I did it with our new washer(1 year old), and got crud all over, and it did smell of gas for about a day.Wife was a little upset.Put the plastics in a 5 gallon bucket with degreaser and dish soap.I bought one of those dish brushes with a long handle, scrub away.There are some good posts for wet sanding and clearcoating the plastics.Mcguires also makes a product that bring plastics back to life too.As far as the carb goes, I guess it wouldn`t hurt to rebuild it.I know on stihls without the carb limiters, you can turn the H and L out one complete turn from seating them.That should get you started.Then you either need to fine tune it yourself or go to a dealer.There is a good post for carb adjustment here also.

 

[USMC0802]

I wouldn`t suggest the dishwasher thing.I did it with our new washer(1 year old), and got crud all over, and it did smell of gas for about a day.Wife was a little upset.Put the plastics in a 5 gallon bucket with degreaser and dish soap.I bought one of those dish brushes with a long handle, scrub away.There are some good posts for wet sanding and clearcoating the plastics.Mcguires also makes a product that bring plastics back to life too.As far as the carb goes, I guess it wouldn`t hurt to rebuild it.I know on stihls without the carb limiters, you can turn the H and L out one complete turn from seating them.That should get you started.Then you either need to fine tune it yourself or go to a dealer.There is a good post for carb adjustment here also.

That's funny about the dishwasher. Thanks for the heads up. I'm not interested in dressing up the plastics I have as there is a hole in the shroud and one of the corners is pretty banged up on the air filter cover. Maybe I'll call the dealer and have them give me a price on plastics.

 

[Tzed250]

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Real good chance that saw has a Zama carb on it. My 044 is like yours and it has a Zama carb.


.

 

[Brian13]

For the vac test, this is what I used to seal the saw up. The piece on the left goes on the exhaust port. The bolts that hold the muffler on will hold the metal piece nice and tight. The one on the right is for the intake boot. It slide in between the carb studs, then with a couple of small blocks you can use the bolt that the air filter sits on and holds down the carb to seal off the intake. Then the impulse line is free to hook the vac gauge too. All I did to make those was cut the metal pieces to size drill holes and glue two layers of bike tubes to it. Not the prettiest, but it works.

 

[USMC0802]

.


Real good chance that saw has a Zama carb on it. My 044 is like yours and it has a Zama carb.


.

It's a Walbro.

 

[USMC0802]

For the vac test, this is what I used to seal the saw up. The piece on the left goes on the exhaust port. The bolts that hold the muffler on will hold the metal piece nice and tight. The one on the right is for the intake boot. It slide in between the carb studs, then with a couple of small blocks you can use the bolt that the air filter sits on and holds down the carb to seal off the intake. Then the impulse line is free to hook the vac gauge too. All I did to make those was cut the metal pieces to size drill holes and glue two layers of bike tubes to it. Not the prettiest, but it works.

I'll have to see what I can come up with for some metal to cut/drill. Think wood would work?

 

[Brian13]

I dont see why wood wouldnt work. As long as its nice and flat and you have something like rubber to seal it off. I you have problems with it PM me. I still have a little bit of the bar I used to make those.

 

[USMC0802]

I'll see what my brother inlaw can come up with after work. Je said he thinks he has sheet metal I can work with.

 

[oscar4883]

You can also put some inner tube behind the muffler back o block off the exhaust. Also put some over the carb studs and then slide the metal ring that goes around the intake manifold over the studs. Slip some small pipe sections or slide a bunch of nuts on to take up some of the distance to the threads on the carb studs.

 

[USMC0802]

You can also put some inner tube behind the muffler back o block off the exhaust. Also put some over the carb studs and then slide the metal ring that goes around the intake manifold over the studs. Slip some small pipe sections or slide a bunch of nuts on to take up some of the distance to the threads on the carb studs.

I'm going to try this. I have a good seal at the exhaust port, but the seal at the intake is suspect. I was using a 1"x1" tire patch behind a piece of sheet metal and I think the metal is too flexible once the nuts are tightened down that it bows in the middle and doesn't seal.

 

[USMC0802]

I'm going to try this. I have a good seal at the exhaust port, but the seal at the intake is suspect. I was using a 1"x1" tire patch behind a piece of sheet metal and I think the metal is too flexible once the nuts are tightened down that it bows in the middle and doesn't seal.

Time to get the soapy water out. Not sure if it's my seals or what. I tried the inner tube over the opening of the intake clamped down with that ring and it ballooned out with pressure and sucked in a bit with vacuum, but I couldn't pump the thing fast enough to hold a vacuum. It would slowly loose pressure.

I'm hoping it's not the intake elbow - that's the only part I haven't ordered.

Other than spraying the soapy water to find out where the bubbles are, after that, is there any reason not to tear this thing apart the rest of the way?