FYI - Northern Chainsaw Sharpener

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Update on NT grinder

started to dress the 1/4" to do the rakers and the wheel shattered as soon as it hit the stone. I visually inspected it for cracks and didn't see any, but clearly it was cracked. Also picked up the 1/8" and it broke in my hand. I suppose it how they are packaged--1/8" and 1/4" on outside and 3/16" in middle.

I'll say this--I added some .010" shimstock to the table circumference and a little synthetic lube (kinda like WD40 but tons better) and you guys are right--that table is perfect.

One other thing I noticed--most fasterners on the unit are loose--the locking cam post was loose alone with the other adjusters. Minor details for such a good deal.

Hopefully NT will send two replacement stones--anyone w/experience w/this?

b
 
That is a good example of why you should allways "Ring" the wheel before each use.


This was with the 1/4" wheel? Your lucky to have your fingers intact as there are great forces at work when these come apart.

A general feeling in the trades is what a grinder takes, you dont get back. Slice your finger off with a saw, they can clean up the ragged ends and sew it back.


Grind it off with a grinder and not only does the portion that is cut away turn to meat-dust, the ends of the cut on each side are usually cauterized and they have to cut away so much extra that its allmost impossable to sew your digit back.


Contact Northern and tell them what happened, they may just send you out some new wheels.




Be carefull.
 
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Yes, it was w/the 1/4" wheel. Actually the guard contained all of the wheel pieces, although they all got jammed up in there and stalled the motor--the dressing stone is another story-shot in many pieces across the garage--safety glasses are always a must when grinding--no ifs ands or buts about it. Gloves too.
 
we all--anyone that runs any type of a grinder--needs to wear glasses--and stay out of the direction of force when grinding--so if the wheel blows--your not in the line of fire---as rbw says--grinder doesnt give back!!!! im wondering if you have some sort of burr--that when you tighten the wheel--its cracking them?????
 
Stihl, I'm not using cardboard washers on the wheel. The cracks don't appear to originate in the center--the 1/8" simply broke in my hand, the 1/4" broke into several large pieces then got jammed into the guard, but the center was still intact. That said, some sort of crushable washer on either side of the wheel makes good sense to ensure it doesn't get overtightened, but it needs to be tight enough to not slip on the arbor.

I don't understand the failure other than the wheels must have been cracked. Someone above mentioned "ringing" in new wheels---I'm curious what exactly is meant by that--it this simply tapping on it to see if it falls apart?

I called NT today and they are shipping out all three replacement stones--based on the p/n they quoted, I think they are shipping original Oregon stones rather than the aftermarket ones that came with the grinder--you know, those ones that are ~$27 a piece on their website.
 
Add me to the list. I just purchased the grinder. At seven bucks a pop to sharpen a chain this thing should pay for itself in no time.:clap:
 
I got my sharpener last week, but I was away until yesterday. Pulled it out and assembled it using the tricks here to clean up the burrs. I attempted my first sharpening and will try the chain this weekend I hope. I did try to use the brick to create a 60 degree surface for the grinding the rackers down. I was not very successful in using the brick though. How long should I expect to grind at the brick to get a flat surface on the grinding wheel? Also I would like to see if someone could create a video on setting up the grinder to sharpen a chain and grind down the rakers????
 
well bigair--you fired it and sharpened a chain yet??????????

Not yet, It is still in transit. I should have it tommorow. I'll probably try it out Friday after work. Saturdays are my cutting day, so I need some sharpened chains to try out.
 
I got my sharpener last week, but I was away until yesterday. Pulled it out and assembled it using the tricks here to clean up the burrs. I attempted my first sharpening and will try the chain this weekend I hope. I did try to use the brick to create a 60 degree surface for the grinding the rackers down. I was not very successful in using the brick though. How long should I expect to grind at the brick to get a flat surface on the grinding wheel? Also I would like to see if someone could create a video on setting up the grinder to sharpen a chain and grind down the rakers????




The dressing stick they give you is junk, that is to say, it works but isint near as good as the ones Im used to.


It will take time, and a LOT of the dressing sticks life to constantly dress the wheel to different angles/shapes.


You may do well to get a 4th wheel and leave it perminantly angled.


.
 
The dressing stick they give you is junk, that is to say, it works but isint near as good as the ones Im used to.

Recommendations on a good one? And a place that sells them that also sells file cards? :) Paying shipping individually on each of these small items adds up quick...
 
dressing sticks,kool tool, file card

Go to ENCO, they carry all that stuff and shipping can be free with the right code, i posted a thread on it once but not a person looked so I let it drop, I'll get it for you and post it.

Rob

free code for March :WBNRM7
 
I need to find the right angles to stihl chain.
thanks
 
Rob, thanks for the shipping code and ENCO heads up. I checked it out and the code works if you purchase >$50 in merchandise.

I'm still not sure why Oregon suggests grinding the 1/4" wheel to a 60deg angle for rakers. I thought about doing it, but left the wheel "square" and tilted the head angle to 75-80 degrees to allow the raker to have a bit of an angle and keep the leading edge lower than the trailing one. Worked good for me and saved a lot of wheel dressing.

I'll also agree-the dressing stone provided will get you by, but it seems like it won't last too long.
 

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