Gas life?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just be careful with the Seafoam spraying it into the air cleaner intake. If your MAF sensor even gets a whiff of that stuff, it will destroy your MAF sensor. When I do ours, my Focus and the wife's Suburban, I remove the intake hose between the air cleaner, MAF sensor and spray it into the intake hose for the throttle body instead. Cheaper than having to remove the head (especially on the Focus and blasting the intakes with ground Walnut shells) and the Seafoam 'refreshes' the catalytic converter as well. I always have to clear the engine codes after I do that as the Cat will throw a code when you douse it with Seafoam. Stuff works well for that application, least for me it does. Seafoam sells the stuff in a pressurized bottle that comes with a curved straw and that is what I use in the engines. I got tired of holding the top down to drain the cans (takes about 3 minutes to empty one, so I bought one of those small bar clamps at HF and I put the can in that and let it empty into the intake. Beats getting a sore finger holding the top button down and I have my wife keep the engine RPM up so the Seafoam don't stall the motor. Once I empty the can into the intake hose, I shut off the motors and let them sit for about 30 minutes and restart them. You wouldn't believe the stuff that comes out the exhaust pipe. Been doing that for a few years now and both buggies seem to run better when they get 'douched' out. I do it at every oil change plus the Cat don't stink afterwards either. I dislike the smell of the exhaust that comes out of the tailpipe when a Cat is upstream.
Your doing more harm than good trying to clean a GDI engine with seafoam.
I've used the Seafoam GDI cleaner and it didn't do a single thing on my wife's fouled up GMC Acadia.
 
I have to disagree with you. I've inspected the intake tract above the intake valves with my endoscope and there is always a reduction in deposits after I give it the Seafoam ******. you must introduce it at the throttle body intake, which I always do and conversely, it 'cleans' it cleans out the Cat as well. I have no issue doing it and I do it every oil change. I do it to my wife's Suburban as well. Same deal, at the throttle body. With a GDI engine and a dry intake tract, you will get deposits above the intake valves and the only other alternative is removing the head and blasting them with ground walnut shells, something I prefer not to do.

Your mileage and mine most likely differ but I know what mine is and I'll leave it at that.
 
I have to disagree with you. I've inspected the intake tract above the intake valves with my endoscope and there is always a reduction in deposits after I give it the Seafoam ******. you must introduce it at the throttle body intake, which I always do and conversely, it 'cleans' it cleans out the Cat as well. I have no issue doing it and I do it every oil change. I do it to my wife's Suburban as well. Same deal, at the throttle body. With a GDI engine and a dry intake tract, you will get deposits above the intake valves and the only other alternative is removing the head and blasting them with ground walnut shells, something I prefer not to do.

Your mileage and mine most likely differ but I know what mine is and I'll leave it at that.
I inspected mine with a bore scope as well.
Introducing partially combusted Seafoam to your CAT most certainly will not clean it out either and may actually make the situation worse. Seafoam is a light solvent with some pale oil added. Do you think burning oil will clean a cat out? If so there are thousands of Saturns on the road with pristine cats.
 
On subject... I have gas everyday and they always stink too.... I do like sharing them with my wife, every chance I get and she reciprocates as well....

Especially when in bed, under the covers...lol
 
I inspected mine with a bore scope as well.
Introducing partially combusted Seafoam to your CAT most certainly will not clean it out either and may actually make the situation worse. Seafoam is a light solvent with some pale oil added. Do you think burning oil will clean a cat out? If so there are thousands of Saturns on the road with pristine cats.
Like I said, your mileage and mine obviously differ and I'll leave it at that. Not going to change my regimen at all. I have no idea what the composition of Seafoam is and not being a chemist, I really don't care much. For me, it works and that is all that counts in my situation.

In fact, that is the only 'snake oil' additive I use other than Nano-Borate in the engine oil.
 
T
I'm still trying to figure out if gasoline additives even work on ethanol gas or are a waste of money? I can keep it for around 3 months, then it goes downhill from there it seems with no treatment. Funny how it will run good in my Honda motor on the splitter well after that.
The only current additives I use today that I swear by is Startron for ethanol fuel phase separation prevention in long term fuel storage up to 2 yrs & Seafoam for pre oil change degumming or sludge prevention , even with today's modern synthetic oil usage . I agree that seasonal use in gas engine intake plenums it does reduce build up also due to its solvency & Injestion via the vacuum line . As Ben stated its not 100 % one application cure however . Have no knowledge if how it would enhance cat performance or life cycle. I could see where it may actually be a step backwards within that application , even though its rated as catalytic Converter safe product lol .
 
I am wondering the life span of gas.
I have a gallon I bought during the summer so it’s probably 7 months old. It’s 91 octane, no ethanol and had 50:1 red armor oil added to it along with a cap full of seafoam and the proper amount of fuel stabilizer (red Stabil). It’s been sealed tightly in a gallon metal can (the stihl motomix metal can).

I’ve never thought twice about using gas like this because Stabil states gas is good for 1 year when treated but I’ve read old gas can cause piston damage. Gas is cheap. Rebuilding a saw, not so much.

How long will you store gas in this condition?

Toss it every time I’m not going to use it for a while or do you think it’s ok?

Do you run Stabil in your gas if you’re just a homeowner and don’t go through that much?

Let’s hear your thoughts.
-Ryan
I use rec fuel with 5 oz sea foam per 5 gallons and at the 2 year anniversary of when I got the gas I will put it in the car or tractor or whatever. I haven't had any issues. I also use the fuel for mix during that 2 year time span. I usually keep 75 gal if fuel on hand. I barely ever use my generac generator and with that fuel it's a one or two pull start every time after sitting a year or more and at the 2 year mark I'll drain the gas and start it up and run the last little bit out and then refill with fresh rec treated with sea foam
 
I’ve been storing E10 pump fuel in one gallon metal cans for up to 90 days with zero problems. No seafoam, stabilizer, etc. key is to store it in airtight metal cans. I keep it on hand for use in my pressure washer since I generally go through at least one gallon every time I run it. Also use it in my walk behind lawnmowers. Run them dry at the end of the season and drain residual from carb haven’t had a problem yet.
 
On subject... I have gas everyday and they always stink too.... I do like sharing them with my wife, every chance I get and she reciprocates as well....

Especially when in bed, under the covers...lol
That's when you are just methane around!
 
I'm still trying to figure out if gasoline additives even work on ethanol gas or are a waste of money? I can keep it for around 3 months, then it goes downhill from there it seems with no treatment. Funny how it will run good in my Honda motor on the splitter well after that.
Preobably, most additives are a waste of money, as the gasoline producers already have provided a good additive package in most cases. That having been said, I add Sta-Bil to any fuel that will sit around for a while. That means fuel for my ZTR lawn mower, my UTV and my chain saw. So far, no problems. I use other additives for my diesel fuel for my tractor, as it can go a couple of months between uses also.
 
I'm still trying to figure out if gasoline additives even work on ethanol gas or are a waste of money? I can keep it for around 3 months, then it goes downhill from there it seems with no treatment. Funny how it will run good in my Honda motor on the splitter well after that.
Startron ethanol treatment & fuel stabilizer works well wolfy . Prevents phase separation in gas & even gelling & microbic fouling in their Diesel additive . As for Seafoam , it does well in Air Plenuum cleaning & oil pretreatment (oil pan sludge) prior to oil changes . As far as decarbonizing valves & heads , noisy lifter treatment within fuel & oil , marginal at best as Ben has indicated . I have utilized a few ounces of atf for noisy lifters more effecticely lol. P.S. As you obviously already know , the only full proof solution is do not use ethanol fuel within handheld 2T engines or small 4 stroke engines , lawnmowers , tillers , snowblowers etc .
 
Right, my big block Chevy may get refueled every couple months. I refill at half tank and run E10, so the fuel itself may be months old by the time it actaully gets burned, never had a problem.

Diesel I don't know. Far less volatile than gasoline, so it's not like the lighter ends are going to be evaporating off, like they do with gasoline. No alcohol to absorb water. If your area has a biodiesel mandate, the biodiesel adds back far more lubricity than was lost due to sulfur reduction, but biodiesel also seems a lot more likely to get diesel bug.

I'm sure it depends on the engine too. I have diesel in cans that's probably 5 years old now. I'd run it in my 617 without a thought, that engine will run on school lunch grease and creamy peanut butter. I wouldn't want to run it in my girlfriends 2013 VW TDI without very good reason.
diesel can last 30 years... FWIW
 

Latest posts

Back
Top