Gas or Electric, Saw

[Trigger-Time]

Some of you have seen the pics of my 200t on the CSM
I milled some small dia. Post Oak with it. I'm going to be using
the Oak for studs and floor joist, for some small buildings, sheds
and lean-to's. The width of the cuts will be less than 6".
The 200T has more than enough power to do the job, but
I think it would burn it up. I was thinking about buying a electric saw
for this, but have not ever used one. I have been looking on line
some at the Milwaukee 6215, I like that
it's bar oil cap is on the left side, so when its on the mill it will be
easy to fill, and Milwaukee is usually good stuff, it did'nt tell
the duty cycle though. So I have a couple of questions.

If both saws have 2 hp, witch has more torque, gas or ele?

What is the most common pitch and gauge do the ele. saws use?

Any thoughts or comments or welcome.

You can see in the pic the size of Post Oak I'm talking about.

I'm just slabing off two sides of the studs.

 

[BostonBull]

I was alwyas taught that the electric saws had more TQ. I was also told, not sure how true, chaps wont protect you from electric saws because of their high TQ.

 

[Justsaws]

Electric chainsaws are just like gas ones, you get what you pay for. The cheap electric saws that they sell at Lowes or H.D. would probably not last long for milling. A good electric chainsaw might. The last time I priced a good electric saw it was around $300.00.

Parts that fail on the cheap ones: oil pumps, plastic drive gears, and motors.

Names to avoid: Remington, Mcculloch, Ryobi, Husky, Poulan, Rigid, Black and Decker, anything less than $200.00.

Good names last time I was looking: Stihl, Milwaukee, Makita, Porter Cable

I am sure that I have left out some brands but that is what I remember for now.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I was alwyas taught that the electric saws had more TQ. I was also told, not sure how true, chaps wont protect you from electric saws because of their high TQ.

About the TQ. That is what I thought also, But was'nt sure.
Thanks on the chaps info. it shoud'nt be a problem mounted
on the mill, the mill stays on a set of guide rails for all of the
cuts.

Here is a pic of the mill set up, but with the 066.

 

[Trigger-Time]

Electric chainsaws are just like gas ones, you get what you pay for. The cheap electric saws that they sell at Lowes or H.D. would probably not last long for milling. A good electric chainsaw might. The last time I priced a good electric saw it was around $300.00.

Parts that fail on the cheap ones: oil pumps, plastic drive gears, and motors.

Names to avoid: Remington, Mcculloch, Ryobi, Husky, Poulan, Rigid, Black and Decker, anything less than $200.00.

Good names last time I was looking: Stihl, Milwaukee, Makita, Porter Cable

I am sure that I have left out some brands but that is what I remember for now.

Thanks,


Anybody have a idea of what the Stihl's sell for?

 

[B_Turner]

I have an about $300 milwaukee electric and a Stihl mse 220.

I think you will be disappointed in cutting with the milwaukee or any of the saws in it's class or lower. Electrics do have more torque as compared to their HP, but somehow the HP rating still doesn't compare to a gas saw. Try to get your hands on one first and try it out is my suggestion.


I have tried several husky electrics, but the only electric that I have tried that is not a toy is the mse220. At 11 lbs with dual real metal dogs it does a decent job, but is pricey.

Most electrics I have used run a .325 chain. I currently am running an arborpro and 20nk .325 setup on my 220.

Again, I really recommend you actually try the saw you are considering as the great majority of folks that I know that bought electrics were surprised how weeney they are. The 220 is a bit of an exception in that you better be hanging on when if you are already in contact with the wood when you pull the trigger because it goes to full torgue quick. But it doesn't get stronger from there like gas saw.

 

[B_Turner]

I paid around $450 for the mse220 powerhead and both 3/8 and .325 spurs.

Make sure you run a heavy enough extension cord to help the motor. One thing annoying about using the 220 for trimming is that unlike a gas saw it runs for maybe 6 or 7 seconds after you release the trigger. So I have to hold it up in the air as it stops or use the chain break before I can set it down. When doing a bunch of trimming that becomes annoying. WIshed it had a built in electric brake like lots of other tools - it would be the perfect application.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I paid around $450 for the mse220 powerhead and both 3/8 and .325 spurs.

What gauge are they, .043 .050 or bigger?

 

[B_Turner]

What gauge are they, .043 .050 or bigger?

As I recall all my .325 is .050.

You can get the arborpro .325 bar and chain from Baileys for like $20 or something like that. LIttle bit more trouble to sharpen than 3/8, but no biggie. The narrow kerf helps the small motor abit.

I actually use my 220 alot and was really glad I got it. Just doesn't match a small gas saw.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I also thought it would be good for rough edging thicker and wider lumber
off the mill.

 

[Trigger-Time]

As I recall all my .325 is .050.

You can get the arborpro .325 bar and chain from Baileys for like $20 or something like that. LIttle bit more trouble to sharpen than 3/8, but no biggie. The narrow kerf helps the small motor abit.

I actually use my 220 alot and was really glad I got it. Just doesn't match a small gas saw.

And what bar mount is it 3003 or 3005?

Just now I thought all of this info, I bet is on STIHL'S web site

Went and checked, Yes it is 140 & 180 3005 mount, 220 3003 mount

 

[Lakeside53]

I have a E20, which is the same as an E220 and MSE220 with a different label (seriously). 16 inch bar 3/8 RM chain. Very high torque (as you would expect from a electric motor), but lower revving than a chainsaw (5-6k in the cut), so you need to use a more aggressive chain than you'd typically use on a gas saw. If you want them to last, don't slam on the chain brake when the trigger is pulled. Sure, it will stop the saw in an instant, but lot's of rotating mass to stop.

If you want the most powerful Stihl MSE220, import the European model - 220v... Stihl won't help you get one though ...

I also echo the comments about not buying cheap electrics... most are junk. My brother-in-law runs a mill in Montana and they use a lot of electic chainsaws inside in the winter. They've tried everything, and the only brand that lasts are the Stihls. They Huskys were o.k., but the motor has to be replaced as a complete assembly.. Expensive...

 

[Lakeside53]

And what bar mount is it 3003 or 3005?

Just now I thought all of this info, I bet is on STIHL'S web site

The 220 has the 3003 mount (the other models do also I think..) - don't put picco chain on the MSE180/220 stihl... way too much torque.

 

[Trigger-Time]

Lake, Do you know the duty cycle of the Stihl 220

 

[B_Turner]

I know a turner in Texas (where everything is reputed bigger) that has been known to occassionally run a 32 inch bar on his 220. I personally find that 20 inches is about the practical limit.

The slow chain speed of the electrics make boring especially end grain, more difficult, btw. Doesn't come up for most folks.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I know a turner in Texas (where everything is reputed bigger) that has been known to occassionally run a 32 inch bar on his 220. I personally find that 20 inches is about the practical limit.

The slow chain speed of the electrics make boring especially end grain, more difficult, btw. Doesn't come up for most folks.

I will be running it for, I think 2 to 4 min per cut.

Will it do that and not over heat? I will be about 50 feet away
from a outlet with a 10 ga. ext. cord

 

[B_Turner]

I will be running it for, I think 2 to 4 min per cut.

Will it do that and not over heat? I will be about 50 feet away
from a outlet with a 10 ga. ext. cord

That's a good question and maybe Lake can answer it or find out.

I don't think 2 to 4 minutes of reasonable load will overheat it (mine has never shown any signs of overheating), but the real question becomes 1) will some of your cuts be even longer than that and 2) what is the interval between cuts? I am sure you could reach a point where it would get hot, but I have not idea of where that point is.

50 ft of 10ga should be fine, I would think. Most electric have a sort of guard around the plug, so you would need a single plug adapter to fit into that or an adapter of some sort. Adapters are a bit of a pain because they tend to pull or fall out. Just thinking out loud here...

The 220 moves alot of air through the casing as I think about it, and for milling and the fine dust it creates you need to be sure that plugging will not be a problem. Again Lake is the guy there, although I will take a look at mine this morning and think about where air circulation path. Can't remember offhand where the air goes in.

Also, I don't know if it would ever be a problelm with milling, but I think the motor case on the 220 sticks out pretty far because of the motor and fan configuration. Much wider than my Milwaukee, for example.

 

[Trigger-Time]

That's a good question and maybe Lake can answer it or find out.

I don't think 2 to 4 minutes of reasonable load will overheat it (mine has never shown any signs of overheating), but the real question becomes 1) will some of your cuts be even longer than that and 2) what is the interval between cuts? I am sure you could reach a point where it would get hot, but I have not idea of where that point is.

50 ft of 10ga should be fine, I would think. Most electric have a sort of guard around the plug, so you would need a single plug adapter to fit into that or an adapter of some sort. Adapters are a bit of a pain because they tend to pull or fall out. Just thinking out loud here...

The 220 moves alot of air through the casing as I think about it, and for milling and the fine dust it creates you need to be sure that plugging will not be a problem. Again Lake is the guy there, although I will take a look at mine this morning and think about where air circulation path. Can't remember offhand where the air goes in.

Also, I don't know if it would ever be a problelm with milling, but I think the motor case on the 220 sticks out pretty far because of the motor and fan configuration. Much wider than my Milwaukee, for example.

I really appreciate your time about this. but I'm starting to think
I may go back to the idea, of going and buying the old slick 028 super
for $225 and putting the 16" picco bar that I have ordered. Set it
rich on fuel and let it eat some wood

I may bid on this any way though. Just to have around.
http://cgi.ebay.com/MILWAUKEE-ELECT...6QQihZ009QQcategoryZ42227QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[B_Turner]

I really appreciate your time about this. but I'm starting to think
I may go back to the idea, of going and buying the old slick 028 super
for $225 and putting the 16" picco bar that I have ordered. Set it
rich on fuel and let it eat some wood

I may bid on this any way though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/MILWAUKEE-ELECT...6QQihZ009QQcategoryZ42227QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That's a beaut.

I am not proud of it, but years ago when my 026 was my only saw I CSM'd many many hundreds of BF of 12 -18 inch width cherry boards. I did richen up the mix, but ran that saw almost non stop tank after tank afer tank. Probably got lucky, but that saw is still running great today.

 

[BostonBull]

If you hurry you can still get this oe for a decent price

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-Mall-Elect...ryZ61788QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem