Granberg File-N-Joint, Revisited
- Thread starter Philbert
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Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I like them for learning to file.
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
nnero
ArboristSite Guru
Here's two pics. I took it apart to clean. A couple new wingnuts and a little time and it should be good as new
shootingarts
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I have been using my Granberg for a year or two now. Learned the little tweaks to make it work better for me. I put the file in backwards and pull the slack out of everything to cut tighter into the corner of a tooth and added five degrees to get in the corner a little better too. I see a recommendation for ten degrees, might try it.
Pretty happy with my results now, my Stihl RSC chain cuts at least as well resharpened as from the factory and after the first sharpening changes the profile a few degrees to match the Granberg, additional sharpenings take very little off. My chains are lasting far longer than when I had them resharpened by someone else and I can resharpen anytime, no dropping a chain off and coming back in a day or three to get it!
Something else, files last me much longer too. I suspect that holding them at a consistent angle and lifting on the back stroke has a lot to do with it, I tend to let the file drag and bounce around freehand sharpening. Since the same place hits the tooth all of the time when the file does finally get dull turning it 180 degrees gives me an all new surface. Probably could get more use out of it than that but I'm very happy with file life now.
I still get the itch to square file sometimes and I may take another look at it when my new bar gets here. Got a 32" Sugi coming and since I'll treat the bar kind, the chain won't be treated as rough either. Hate too but sometimes my factory bar meets a little dirt cutting roots or something even after cleaning all I can around them. Only way to excavate stumps with my small tractor so the bar has to suffer. I'll get a new short bar before too long and have the old bar and a ratty chain I found reserved for dirty work.
Anyway, just wanted to update my findings on the Granberg. Very happy with it! The more I use it the better it gets.
Hu
Pretty happy with my results now, my Stihl RSC chain cuts at least as well resharpened as from the factory and after the first sharpening changes the profile a few degrees to match the Granberg, additional sharpenings take very little off. My chains are lasting far longer than when I had them resharpened by someone else and I can resharpen anytime, no dropping a chain off and coming back in a day or three to get it!
Something else, files last me much longer too. I suspect that holding them at a consistent angle and lifting on the back stroke has a lot to do with it, I tend to let the file drag and bounce around freehand sharpening. Since the same place hits the tooth all of the time when the file does finally get dull turning it 180 degrees gives me an all new surface. Probably could get more use out of it than that but I'm very happy with file life now.
I still get the itch to square file sometimes and I may take another look at it when my new bar gets here. Got a 32" Sugi coming and since I'll treat the bar kind, the chain won't be treated as rough either. Hate too but sometimes my factory bar meets a little dirt cutting roots or something even after cleaning all I can around them. Only way to excavate stumps with my small tractor so the bar has to suffer. I'll get a new short bar before too long and have the old bar and a ratty chain I found reserved for dirty work.
Anyway, just wanted to update my findings on the Granberg. Very happy with it! The more I use it the better it gets.
Hu
Bump
Been a while. I picked up a few more at garage sales and eBay to add to the 'stable' (cheaper, and takes up less space than collecting large displacement chainsaws).
Also, some comparisons with the similar STIHL models (referenced on first page, Post #11):
STIHL FG1 - looks similar / identical to the Tecomec versions.
STIHL FG 2 (bench mounted version) with older and current models of Granberg file guides - note differences in scale.
STIHL FG 2 (bench mounted version) and FG 3 (bar mounted version - but much larger than FG 1)
Philbert
Been a while. I picked up a few more at garage sales and eBay to add to the 'stable' (cheaper, and takes up less space than collecting large displacement chainsaws).
Also, some comparisons with the similar STIHL models (referenced on first page, Post #11):
STIHL FG1 - looks similar / identical to the Tecomec versions.
STIHL FG 2 (bench mounted version) with older and current models of Granberg file guides - note differences in scale.
STIHL FG 2 (bench mounted version) and FG 3 (bar mounted version - but much larger than FG 1)
Philbert
Understood. It may stop for me but then does ups deliver to the grave yard? (-;
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just had this oldie given to me.
Never heard of Norman Prince before....
But it looks well made
Maybe someone can show me how to set it up for square filing?
We used to have a dealer in Pa. who used to have lots of stuff branded Norman Prince. In fact last year I sold my last bar by that name. They were just stenciled Tsunarma Super bars. I still have a Raker gauge rhat was in a package labled Norman Prince.
Here is my File-N-Guide bought new at Sears back in 1979 or so.
Very cool! I did not know that Granberg made a bench mount version.
Maybe they will reintroduce it, due to all of the interest in the NLA STIHL FG2?
I have thought about making a 'poor man's FG2' by bolting a Granberg style tool to a short section of guide bar, and then a bracket to mount that to bench. Might have to have sections from several bars (0.043, 0.050, 0.058, and 0.063") unless I make an adjustable vise like the one in the thread below, or like one used on an inexpensive chain grinder:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-tech-filing-vise.245004/
These photos really help. Thanks!
Philbert
Maybe they will reintroduce it, due to all of the interest in the NLA STIHL FG2?
I have thought about making a 'poor man's FG2' by bolting a Granberg style tool to a short section of guide bar, and then a bracket to mount that to bench. Might have to have sections from several bars (0.043, 0.050, 0.058, and 0.063") unless I make an adjustable vise like the one in the thread below, or like one used on an inexpensive chain grinder:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-tech-filing-vise.245004/
These photos really help. Thanks!
Philbert
Nice. 'Nygran' = 'Granberg', as I understand it.
Interested to know how you like them, and what differences you find between the 2 models.
Philbert
Interested to know how you like them, and what differences you find between the 2 models.
Philbert
HTTR
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I'm hoping to sharpen some chain next week. We'll see how they do.
Original Granberg Patent?
Goes back to 1955 (filing date) and 1958 (award date)!
Chain saw sharpening and jointing apparatus
Publication number US2818752 A
Publication date Jan 7, 1958
Filing date Jul 1, 1955
Inventors Elof Granberg
Original Assignee Nygran Ind Ltd
Available on Google patents for real chain geeks!
Philbert
Goes back to 1955 (filing date) and 1958 (award date)!
Chain saw sharpening and jointing apparatus
Publication number US2818752 A
Publication date Jan 7, 1958
Filing date Jul 1, 1955
Inventors Elof Granberg
Original Assignee Nygran Ind Ltd
Available on Google patents for real chain geeks!
Philbert
Videos
A long time ago, I recall seeing a YouTube video that clearly explained how to mount, adjust, and use these types of jigs. Can't find it since.
Most show a guy fumbling around and mumbling while he does or doesn't do a good job of filing or explaining what he is doing. If anyone knows of a good, clear video, please share.
The angles are pretty easy to set. But one issue I had was understanding how high to mount the jig on the guide bar. Another was adjusting the side chain clamps. These side clamps stabilize the chain while filing, and distinguish the File-N-Joint from the File-N-Guide models.
- The filing guide should be clamped to the bar so that the side chain clamps are positioned slightly higher than the chain rivets. This helps hold the chain down, and prevent chain lifting, while filing the underside of the top plate.
- The side chain clamps should be tight enough to stabilize the chain side-to-side when filing, minimizing lateral movement, but not so tight that they prevent the chain from freely moving forward when advancing to the next tooth.
These were a couple of the better videos I found on a recent search:
Granberg106B Chainsaw Chain Filing Jig, Advanced Use - George Lawrence
Goes into detailed modifications to the filing guide (and bar*), including use for square ground chains, etc. *drilling the bar is not required for normal use.
chainsawbars.co.uk - using a filing guide system - chainsawbars
Basic.
Philbert
A long time ago, I recall seeing a YouTube video that clearly explained how to mount, adjust, and use these types of jigs. Can't find it since.
Most show a guy fumbling around and mumbling while he does or doesn't do a good job of filing or explaining what he is doing. If anyone knows of a good, clear video, please share.
The angles are pretty easy to set. But one issue I had was understanding how high to mount the jig on the guide bar. Another was adjusting the side chain clamps. These side clamps stabilize the chain while filing, and distinguish the File-N-Joint from the File-N-Guide models.
- The filing guide should be clamped to the bar so that the side chain clamps are positioned slightly higher than the chain rivets. This helps hold the chain down, and prevent chain lifting, while filing the underside of the top plate.
- The side chain clamps should be tight enough to stabilize the chain side-to-side when filing, minimizing lateral movement, but not so tight that they prevent the chain from freely moving forward when advancing to the next tooth.
These were a couple of the better videos I found on a recent search:
Granberg106B Chainsaw Chain Filing Jig, Advanced Use - George Lawrence
Goes into detailed modifications to the filing guide (and bar*), including use for square ground chains, etc. *drilling the bar is not required for normal use.
chainsawbars.co.uk - using a filing guide system - chainsawbars
Basic.
Philbert
Philbert you should make a video! Or even better a series!
I have a face for radio . . .
Philbert
Philbert
