Hand file vs grinding

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I'm old and sitting back watching this thread. Do what you do what works. Personally I like to lift the saw to control stalling. That puts me in control. I do not want to push - as the saw digs I can control it much easier by lifting than pushing. I have all appendages and never a kick back - in all these years.
 
I'm old and sitting back watching this thread. Do what you do what works. Personally I like to lift the saw to control stalling. That puts me in control. I do not want to push - as the saw digs I can control it much easier by lifting than pushing. I have all appendages and never a kick back - in all these years.

I like how you think.

I like a saw that needs neither lifting or pushing but that idea situation almost never exist.
 
Chain. Fresh it is hell on wheels. 15 minutes later not so much but I continue on. A bit later when I have to push its time to resharpen or change out. Sure I could keep going. But if I take 15 minutes and I touch up the chain or change it out I am way ahead for the afternoon.

And with a sharp chain I am much safer than pushing.

My gosh, do I even have to say this?
 
Grinder can be set for and operator can use light touch, but any bar mounted file guide jig system (such as Granberg or Oregon) that give 100% consistent angle/ depth/ cutter length is as good as bench vs FREE-HAND. Any system is only as good/ bad as the operator. The newer 2N1 that files cutter/ depth at same time seems negate some errors, but still depends on consistent pressure and # of strokes.
I wouldn't say the Granberg offers 100%. If the rail gets dirty and/or isn't greased well, it can alter the stroke. As well, when the bushings wear out, it can also alter the stroke.

The amount and direction(s) of pressure applied can also alter the stroke.
 
I wouldn't say the Granberg offers 100%. If the rail gets dirty and/or isn't greased well, it can alter the stroke. As well, when the bushings wear out, it can also alter the stroke.

The amount and direction(s) of pressure applied can also alter the stroke.
I use never-seize on the rod. And the bushings are cheap to replace.
 
The wife had to calm me down last night. As we were watching one of those Alaska frontier reality shows with the tribal guy who goes out with his two little kids. He complained his saw wasn't cutting very good so he finds his file and gets to work. So they film him filing the chain and its at about 90d to the bar. He finishes filing and starts cutting and "Oh, it cuts a LOT better now!" Bwahh-hahhh.
 
I've been hand filing for 30 years and still can't quite get away from ending up with teeth a bit shorter on one side after 3 or 4 full sharpenings. Have heard different explanations for it, but I guess it comes down to simple differences in how we approach the teeth with the file from one side to the other. Nevertheless, hand sharpening has always worked better as far as being more in tune with how much metal you're taking off, getting the proper shape and angle, and manipulating the process in general. Lately, I've been doing the "Get the gullet" method with a nice C and the results are fantastic. It's a learning process to go the hand filing route, but I wouldn't sharpen any other way. You'll never get perfection with the hand file, but you don't need it. If your rakers are kept where they should be, and you keep your angle approximately correct, getting a good cut isn't that difficult. I'm happy when I'm throwing chips.
 

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