I guessed you were, but I wanted to draw you out to make sure.
Believe it or not, most people assume I am out to screw them
based on their past experiences with the other local shops,
and some of them are serious gougers that do poor work to
boot. But what is more interesting is that they are still busy.
The trick to working on saws, is not working on junk that is
not worth touching, and the middle of the road cases are the
only ones that will likely burn you. Chainsaws and trimmers
can be a real pain to fix, since the first likely trouble spot is the
carb. Go through that, and if the unit does not still run right,
means there is an air leak, or the carb has a clog that cannot be
cleared up easily. Either way, this rules out any further action
costwise, and the customer will have a hard time payibg for
a carb rebuild that did not cure the problem. It is for this reason
I seldom put in a new carb kit, unless the diaphragms are real
stiff. I know this last statement will unleash rage from many here
but I do not want to lose the cost of a carb kit to boot. I usually
eat the labor, if the problem is not a carb cleanout{or fuel or
impulse line leak}, and give the saw back and tell them it is
not worth pursuing, unless it is a high dollar saw. I lose a lot of
money this way, but it doesn't piss em off and they keep
coming back. But if I fix the saw by blowing the junk out of a
carb, or replacing a fuel line, which is more than not, I charge them a decent wage, so it balances out a little. I also will
admit, if they are not standing there watching, and the problem
is only a plugged exhaust, I charge the $10 minumum and
sleep well at night, even if it is as simple as sticking a pencil
in the muffler tube to break out the wasp larvae. That is why
I tell them it may take a little time to figure out, so they might
go get a burger and come back in a 1/2 hour or so.
I love mud dobbers[wasps], they are my favorite.