Help choosing a used Husky... Pro Saw on a Rookie Budget

[cuinrearview]

Dealing with people for sales certainly isn't what it was even a decade ago. I can remember driving cross state for an old tire machine. I wouldn't think of it anymore. If myself or a friend can't do it conveniently I don't even bother contacting.

A month ago I got a new 36" Granberg mill off of CL for $100. Transaction went flawlessly. I still score often enough to not write secondhand purchases off.

 

[Colt Marlington]

I get most of my best deals at pawn shops.
But I have the opportunity to look at quite a few without going out of my way.

They often price things based on how much they paid for it. Or by how long it was sitting there. Or if it won't start because it needs a fuel line.

Here's a small sample of related pawn shop finds.

Nice looking and good running 372xp with oem mahle cylinder. Clean bore and piston. Was marked $475. But had been there a while and all the guy ever got was lowball offers. So he was happy to take my $300 out the door.

One year old barely used 545. Cheap cheap cheap.

I think this real clean mag cased Poulan 3500 might be a Husky product. Pro saw build. Missing a muffler bolt and wouldn't start due to impulse line wasn't hooked up. $35

 

[Cliff R]

I've been offered mills and lathes for free, IF I wanted to go thru all the logistics of moving them off the premises. Most were antiquated and large/heavy units, good in their day and still good if you don't mind manual set-ups and doing a little math. Would absolutely love a good tire machine, balancer and a brake lathe as I need them just often enough it would be nice not to waste half a day going to town to have some hourly worker in a tire shop knock the bark off my nice aluminum rims (happens every single time I get tires mounted/balanced)........

 

[Woodsnake]

Overwhelming generosity on the saw advice front! You all remind me of the blacksmithing community for downright awesomeness. So to distill things a bit, I want a saw I could run 3/8 chain with a 20" bar. I'm hoping this can happen for $300-$400. I'm a slighter build guy and when we cut it's all day, so the lightest saw I can find with the capabilities I want will suffice. As I distill the list of recommendations here's what I come away with (there were some mentions of a 61 I think, but they said it was a heavy saw so I left it off the list):

55, 62, 254xp, 257, 262(xp?), 266xp, 353, 357xp,
359, 365, 545 like 550xp, 555, 562xp,

Can anyone help me break down this list, or whittle out the ones that might be the best fit based on my above post? I could care less if it says XP. I want a good pro saw that will last and perform.
Thanks to everyone~
Peter.

 

[August76]

I've been offered mills and lathes for free, IF I wanted to go thru all the logistics of moving them off the premises. Most were antiquated and large/heavy units, good in their day and still good if you don't mind manual set-ups and doing a little math. Would absolutely love a good tire machine, balancer and a brake lathe as I need them just often enough it would be nice not to waste half a day going to town to have some hourly worker in a tire shop knock the bark off my nice aluminum rims (happens every single time I get tires mounted/balanced)........

The jerks always chew up my rims and pocket my chrome valve stem caps!

 

[August76]

Overwhelming generosity on the saw advice front! You all remind me of the blacksmithing community for downright awesomeness. So to distill things a bit, I want a saw I could run 3/8 chain with a 20" bar. I'm hoping this can happen for $300-$400. I'm a slighter build guy and when we cut it's all day, so the lightest saw I can find with the capabilities I want will suffice. As I distill the list of recommendations here's what I come away with (there were some mentions of a 61 I think, but they said it was a heavy saw so I left it off the list):

55, 62, 254xp, 257, 262(xp?), 266xp, 353, 357xp,
359, 365, 545 like 550xp, 555, 562xp,

Can anyone help me break down this list, or whittle out the ones that might be the best fit based on my above post? I could care less if it says XP. I want a good pro saw that will last and perform.
Thanks to everyone~
Peter.

I wouldnt go with any of those saws. I would get a 350 or 360 rancher. Its in your price range ish new def used. Actually i wouldnt really recommend any of them for all day per the price but you asked for husky. And not echo lol

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Overwhelming generosity on the saw advice front! You all remind me of the blacksmithing community for downright awesomeness. So to distill things a bit, I want a saw I could run 3/8 chain with a 20" bar. I'm hoping this can happen for $300-$400. I'm a slighter build guy and when we cut it's all day, so the lightest saw I can find with the capabilities I want will suffice. As I distill the list of recommendations here's what I come away with (there were some mentions of a 61 I think, but they said it was a heavy saw so I left it off the list):

55, 62, 254xp, 257, 262(xp?), 266xp, 353, 357xp,
359, 365, 545 like 550xp, 555, 562xp,

Can anyone help me break down this list, or whittle out the ones that might be the best fit based on my above post? I could care less if it says XP. I want a good pro saw that will last and perform.
Thanks to everyone~
Peter.

Of these, if you want a 20" bar with 3/8 chain for"all day use" I'd be looking at the 357, 359, 555, or 562.

The ones I listed are the 60ish cc saws that are relatively modern. The 50cc saws aren't really gonna be a good pick with that size bar. Occasional use, sure but not for regular duty. The 70ish cc saws, the 266 and especially the 365 would get a nod from me as well, but they're definitely heavier. I'm a big guy, so it's a bit different of an equation. I didn't read back to the beginning, but if you're planning on burying that 20" bar in hardwood all day bucking firewood, I'd definitely consider a 365. If you're doing a variety of tasks, the 60cc saws will fit the bill better.

And, I don't think you'd have too much trouble finding any of the ones I mentioned for under $400.

 

[Jason280]

I would look for a 359 or 61, although the 61's tend to be considerably cheaper. My dad & I have cut a lot of firewood with various Husqvarna 61's over the years, and always with 20" bars.

The deals are out there, but you have to do your due diligence when buying used 2-stroke equipment. Like its been mentioned, doesn't take much wrong to turn a $200 "bargain" saw into a $400 money pit. That being said, if you have the ability to work on small equipment, you can find some smoking deals.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I would vote for the 357 359, the 359 can possibly be found cheaper and can be turned into a 357 with the Meteor kit.
About the only thing to watch with this model is the Walbro carb- it has one of those nasty accelerator pumps that sooner or later will give problems, can be swapped out for a Zama- but it all adds to the cost and we are on a budget here are we not?

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I would vote for the 357 359, the 359 can possibly be found cheaper and can be turned into a 357 with the Meteor kit.
About the only thing to watch with this model is the Walbro carb- it has one of those nasty accelerator pumps that sooner or later will give problems, can be swapped out for a Zama- but it all adds to the cost and we are on a budget here are we not?

I think for most users, the 359 would be just fine for a 20" bar saw. From my understanding, the 357 is a better limbing saw with faster acceleration, but the 359 has more torque. Especially after mods, but even stock. I've only run a 357 a couple times though, and not side by side with a 359, so I could be passing on bad info. I do know that my 2159 is a pretty nice setup with a 20" bar.

 

[cuinrearview]

I think for most users, the 359 would be just fine for a 20" bar saw. From my understanding, the 357 is a better limbing saw with faster acceleration, but the 359 has more torque. Especially after mods, but even stock. I've only run a 357 a couple times though, and not side by side with a 359, so I could be passing on bad info. I do know that my 2159 is a pretty nice setup with a 20" bar.

This has been my observation as well. The 359 is more forgiving. Stock vs stock I like 20" 3/8 on a 59 and 18" 3/8 on a 357. The 357 is capable of being faster with a 20" bar but it's peaky powerband is much narrower. Of course with proper modifications these facts are all off the table.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Overwhelming generosity on the saw advice front! You all remind me of the blacksmithing community for downright awesomeness. So to distill things a bit, I want a saw I could run 3/8 chain with a 20" bar. I'm hoping this can happen for $300-$400. I'm a slighter build guy and when we cut it's all day, so the lightest saw I can find with the capabilities I want will suffice. As I distill the list of recommendations here's what I come away with (there were some mentions of a 61 I think, but they said it was a heavy saw so I left it off the list):

55, 62, 254xp, 257, 262(xp?), 266xp, 353, 357xp,
359, 365, 545 like 550xp, 555, 562xp,

Can anyone help me break down this list, or whittle out the ones that might be the best fit based on my above post? I could care less if it says XP. I want a good pro saw that will last and perform.
Thanks to everyone~
Peter.

Here ya go man.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/2159.340526/

 

[svk]

He told me last Sunday to get him another one as he wants to retire his 266 since a lot of parts and NLA for it.......FWIW.....

Totally understand someone wanting a new saw. But there are a zillion parts available for the 266 family of saws!

 

[svk]

OP, I am going to say to step up to 372/365 or 266/268/272 families. Being that you already have smaller saws I think you will be happier stepping up a couple classes in size.

You will have a little trouble finding a 372 in that price range but the rest definitely will be in there. If you can find one of the newer 365's that has the 70cc cylinder you can have it pumping out 372 power in about 2 hours or less.

Also, diagnose the issue on your 2150 as those are great saws!

 

[Lionsfan]

Forget the toys, buy a 365 x-torque and pack an extra sammich in your lunch bucket.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I think for most users, the 359 would be just fine for a 20" bar saw. From my understanding, the 357 is a better limbing saw with faster acceleration, but the 359 has more torque. Especially after mods, but even stock. I've only run a 357 a couple times though, and not side by side with a 359, so I could be passing on bad info. I do know that my 2159 is a pretty nice setup with a 20" bar.

My post was not so much "get a 359 and immediately make it a 357", more look for either- now I have reread it- it does kind of read the former....... my bad- missed a /.
Other than that- totally agree and it is exactly why I also have a 2159 over the 357 model and it also wears a 20 inch bar full time- very nice combination that does a lot more than should ever be asked of it!

 

[Huskitoter]

I must be a magician. The little mods I made to a 357 when I built it churns a 20" bar buried in Oak at a high rate. Never thought of it as peaky, but it does like high rpm's when buried.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I must be a magician. The little mods I made to a 357 when I built it churns a 20" bar buried in Oak at a high rate. Never thought of it as peaky, but it does like high rpm's when buried.

Yep, the 357 is good- but have you run a slightly modded 359 beside it?
They just deliver the power a wee bit differently, both will run a 20 inch bar just fine- but as said above- the 359 is just a wee bit more forgiving, or maybe just a wee bit less demanding of the operator.

 

[sunfish]

I've had both stock & ported 357s' & 359s',. There is no loser here at all! Both great saws & very much underestimated. With minimal mods these saws are animals. I prefer the 357, but would not turn down a 359.

 

[sunfish]

The 357xp is not as peaky as a 346xp.