Help Request on Stihl 028 AV Super Wood Boss - Bogging

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cbrTodd

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Oct 3, 2024
Messages
6
Reaction score
3
Location
Indiana
Hi everyone! I just want to start out by saying that I've learned a lot from this forum over the years, enough so that I've been able to find the answers I needed without ever registering. So, thanks for making this valuable resource available. Now, however, I've encountered issues with a saw that has me stumped enough I think I need assistance with my specific problem.

I've got a Sthil 028 AV Super Wood Boss that I inherited from my aunt and uncle. They were known for buying high quality equipment and lightly using it, and I suspect this saw fits in that category. I'm guessing it had more years where it never was started than ones where it did. I've had it for the last few years, tinkering with it some and actually using it some a couple years ago, but recently it's started giving me major trouble. Currently it will start and idle fine, but the instant that I try to cut with it, it bogs back to idle. It will restart easily, either cold or hot.

Since I'd done carb work on this saw once before (it needed a new diaphragm when I took it out of storage), I just put a new carb on it to test. It made no difference. I did adjust it before trying to cut with it.
I checked the compression with an automotive gauge and it was about 90 psi on the first pull, going up to about 150 after a couple more. From what I've read on here, I think that's fine. It certainly feels like it has plenty of resistance when I pull the starter cord.
From there I read that it could be sucking the choke plate closed, so I removed it after the saw was warm. That made no difference. I also removed the grub screw from the fuel vent line to see if that made a difference; it didn't. The fuel filter is new and doesn't act plugged. So I tried removing the entire air filter to see if it was clogged, even though it seemed to be clean after I blew the chips off it. Even with a warm saw I had a heck of a time getting it to start and it seemed to be blowing a fair bit of fuel mist back out of the carburetor. When I did get it to run, it still bogged down the same as it has been.
At that point, I did some more reading on here and saw where someone suggested that points issues on an older saw could cause it to spit fuel like that. This saw has an electronic ignition, but I replaced the coil anyway, and it made no difference. I replaced the spark plug at the same time, but the old one looked fine and was a tan / brown color on the electrode that seemed normal to me.
Then I read that it's important to do vacuum and pressure checks on the crankcase. I only have a MityVac vacuum tester now (pressure tester is on the way, due here early next week), but I made block off seals for behind the carb and the muffler and tested it for vacuum through the compression tester hose. I did remove the check valve in the hose after confirming it wouldn't work under vacuum with it in there. I took it to 15 inches of mercury and it took about 90 seconds to lose 1 inch of mercury. I know that's not zero, but I'm not confident that I might not be losing some due to my worn out MityVac tester or the hoses. Is that enough to cause the saw to instantly bog down if it was all from the saw and not the tester?

Is there anything else that I'm missing that I should be looking at or testing? I'm normally pretty good on 4 stroke engines, but I've never gotten along well with 2 strokes other than my little workhorse MS180 (side note - that little 2013 vintage MS180 has been one of the best investments in tools that I've ever made!). I'm hoping that I'm missing something obvious that you kind folks can guide me towards, as I'd really like to get this saw back to doing what I know it should be capable of. I've got a dead ash tree behind the house that needs felled that is just too big to tackle with a 14 inch bar MS180. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give!
 

Attachments

  • 20241003_221002.jpg
    20241003_221002.jpg
    983.9 KB
  • 20241003_221050.jpg
    20241003_221050.jpg
    2.7 MB
A worn piston intake skirt is often the cause of excessive fuel spitback but more likely the carb is the culprit. Carbs that have sat with fuel in them for long periods are often varnished up/partially blocked fuel passages, replacing the diaphragms is not always good enough for a rebuild.
 
Does it have a spark screen? If so, is it clean? Not a likely solution but super easy to check.
If no spark screen, did mud daubers build a nest inside the muffler?
Good question! Looks like I forgot to mention it but yes it does have a screen and I have checked it and it was clean.

On the carb, the original one I had been running with was the factory one that I had cleaned and replaced the diaphragm on, but I also bought a new one that I swapped over this week and after tuning it, it still has the same symptoms.
 
If the carb is known good then the intake side of the piston skirt acts as the intake valve in a twostroke, when worn and making a bad seal it interrupts the fuel delivery, too much of the crankcase bottom end compression escapes blowing fuel out at the same time. I would check out the intake skirt as I have seen several saws with worn skirt and if the throttle was jiggled quickly enough from on off the saw would eventually reach WOT.
 
If the carb is known good then the intake side of the piston skirt acts as the intake valve in a twostroke, when worn and making a bad seal it interrupts the fuel delivery, too much of the crankcase bottom end compression escapes blowing fuel out at the same time. I would check out the intake skirt as I have seen several saws with worn skirt and if the throttle was jiggled quickly enough from on off the saw would eventually reach WOT.
It will reach WOT quickly when unloaded but it just bogs down instantly when load is applied.

I thought I might have found something when I noticed the fuel line was soft. I replaced it with a new one from the carb kit but it made no difference.

Then I remembered I bought a cheapo bore scope a while back. Here are some pictures of the intake and exhaust skirts and the cylinder bore. The skirts look fine to me - I can see the original machining marks through what few vertical lines are there on the intake side. The exhaust side looks clean. The cylinder bore looks weird to me though. I am used to seeing clean metal with cross hatch on it. Is this normal for a 2 stroke cylinder? I looked at the cylinder in my MS180 and it didn't look like this, but I don't know if this has some kind of coating that it doesn't or something.
 

Attachments

  • 20241004100510.jpg
    20241004100510.jpg
    20.6 KB
  • 20241004101229.jpg
    20241004101229.jpg
    19.1 KB
  • 20241004101027.jpg
    20241004101027.jpg
    50.5 KB
  • 20241004100400.jpg
    20241004100400.jpg
    40.4 KB
  • 20241004101109.jpg
    20241004101109.jpg
    48.6 KB
If I messed this in the thread, I apologize. I had behavior like this with impulse line and fuel line with crack that was inconsistent and started fine then bogged on demand.
I had thought this was going to be a pain to get to so I had left the original. But I found a thread saying how to get to it. Unfortunately, replacing it made no difference.

I guess I am down to 2 things before I give up on this saw. First, is the vacuum test result of losing 1 inch of mercury in 90 seconds significant enough to cause the immediate bog that I am seeing? Second, are the pictures above OK for a piston and cylinder? Or do they show a need for a new cylinder despite compression readings of 90 psi on the first pull and 150 psi total, on a saw that starts easily? Admittedly my experience is on 4 strokes, but whenever I have dealt with compression issues in the past, it has been near impossible to get the engine to start in the first place.
 
First, is the vacuum test result of losing 1 inch of mercury in 90 seconds significant enough to cause the immediate bog that I am seeing?

Shop manual:

"Pull out pump piston until the gauge indicates a vacuum of 0,,5 bar
(kp/cm2), When the pump piston is released, the non-return valve automatically
closes the suction hose" If the vacuum reading remains constant,
or rises no further than 0,,3 bar(kp/cm2), the oil seals are good"



Two questions:

1. Do you have the shop manual for the saw?
2. Are the new parts you are using (fuel and impulse lines, carb, coil, and such) OEM or aftermarket?

Roy
 
Shop manual:

"Pull out pump piston until the gauge indicates a vacuum of 0,,5 bar
(kp/cm2), When the pump piston is released, the non-return valve automatically
closes the suction hose" If the vacuum reading remains constant,
or rises no further than 0,,3 bar(kp/cm2), the oil seals are good"



Two questions:

1. Do you have the shop manual for the saw?
2. Are the new parts you are using (fuel and impulse lines, carb, coil, and such) OEM or aftermarket?

Roy
I do not have a shop manual for this saw. If I go much deeper, I think I am going to need one.

The latest new carb kit and coil are cheapo parts off Amazon. The previous carb was a Stihl. I know many scoff at Amazon carbs, but I have put several on 2 stroke weedeaters and had great luck with them.
 
Try turning your high adjustment needle out about an 1/8 or 1/4 CCW .

They all blow mist out the barrel when they are running. So, if it dies under load that could just be too lean.

Seems like you have covered most everything else, other than flywheel spinning or something more odd.
I have tried both richening and leaning out the high adjustment and it makes no difference. Interesting thought on the flywheel key. I will have to check that next, but I won't be near the saw again for a couple days. The only thing I have ever personally experienced that sheared a flywheel key was a push mower.
 
Back
Top