View attachment 297869 This works also. the previous illustration was out of Dent's book . I found it on the web{lost my copy yrs. ago,hope he read it}
I get the coos bay bro just I don't get boring the face with that cut
View attachment 297869 This works also. the previous illustration was out of Dent's book . I found it on the web{lost my copy yrs. ago,hope he read it}
Gologit- sorry, didnt mean to copy you, was tying to learn how to get pics onto the forum again
I think we at crossed terms here a bit (my fault) are you poss meaning gutting the hinge? I could see that maybe in the triangle but not the other
In the diagrams I posted you don't usually bore. There's really no need for it if you match your cuts just right and have a fast saw when you're backing it up.
My extensive falling experience has taught me the coos bay is used for avoiding chairing a leaner without all that pesky boring:jester::kilt:
The jester is 'cause I don't know #### about ####, and the kilt was for Graeme!
White oak from this morning. Thanks to the Coos bay cuts I never bore anymore.
Coos bay back cut. Wide open face keeps the pull at a min. I would guess it took me a minute and a half to put it on the ground.
A little pull but not too bad considering I think. About the only tree that will split easier is hickory.
She made 3 10s and a 12. It was inside the bar tip on the stump.
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My extensive falling experience has taught me the coos bay is used for avoiding chairing a leaner without all that pesky boring:jester::kilt:
The jester is 'cause I don't know #### about ####, and the kilt was for Graeme!
The reason I gutted the heart out from the face was to minimize pull. I've done it without, but especially with a white oak leaning this hard it makes the back cut a lot easier and saves the wood.
Somehow I missed nearly the whole third page of discussion on this thread.... until now.
you get back to the other thread lol
The reason I gutted the heart out from the face was to minimize pull. I've done it without, but especially with a white oak leaning this hard it makes the back cut a lot easier and saves the wood.
Somehow I missed nearly the whole third page of discussion on this thread.... until now.
Dooby- I do my own saw work. Let me know if you sling one! Fall is a good time to be out here.
Husky- I'd save I'm about average. Thanks for the compliment though!
Just to clear up any confusion this is how I did it.
1. Gunned it (had to ream a little to get where I wanted it, started sittin down right away)
2. Humboldt
3. Conventional (Saginaw)
4. Gutted it from the face
5. Bottom of the bar from outside- in standing behind the stem.
6. Backbar from outside- in standing behind till she popped.
I like to end with the backbar, just cuts faster.
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HuskStihl- I may be mistaken, but i think because as hard as it was leaning he did both cuts making it a "birds-mouth". If bitzer did do that it was to further eliminate the chance of the face closing up which could cause a barber-chair. And yes I am gonna let him stroke a saw for me. He is better than an avg. pro saw for sure. We could call him the "HumboltMunk"lol-cause he's humble. What about the kilt? lolI understand everything about your explanation except for having a Humboldt on the left side of the face and a conventional on the right with the same gunning cut.
Saw an interview with chet atkins once. Asked where he thought he ranked with other guitarists. "Above below average"
Y'all set the curve pretty high!
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