Still only $39.99 at the HF store in NKC.
I know of another A.S. member who bought one of those spinner/breaker combos but could not get replacement punches - which can break occasionally. A few guys have made their own replacement punches, but I don't have those skills. Bailey's often has a set that goes on sale for $100 - parts are available for these, and are a better deal IMHO.Found another item of interest there. Almost tripped my trigger except I would have had to gather up accessories (presets) to go with it.
It works OK as a dedicated raker dropper for a chain that needs a lot taken off in one pass.
Using my idea, they really don't get any sharper at the top because you are coming in at the 60-degree angle. They may actually be sharper at the top on a new chain. The raker profile remains almost the same all the way down with the curve remaining on the top.Interesting. You are shortening the length of the depth gauge/raker as well as the height? Look like they could get sharp/pointy at the top, or is this just the sketch?
In one of the videos, the guy brings his wheel down to the desired height and pulls his depth gauges through to take the height down, leaving a flat top. On my 511A I use the wider wheel to take just the tops down, then round the depth gauges back over to match the factory profile with a ScotchBrite wheel on a bench motor.
Philbert
Using my idea, they really don't get any sharper at the top because you are coming in at the 60-degree angle. They may actually be sharper at the top on a new chain. The raker profile remains almost the same all the way down with the curve remaining on the top.
About all I noticed is that I have to use my left hand to keep the stop tight to the chain and cutter, once it's set for the correct amount to remove from the raker. There is a tendency for it to lift up and move to the right (away from the wheel), even when the vice clamps are squeezed against the DLs . A tad slower vertical drop also helps, thus letting the grinder do its thing. Once again, you get better at it with a little practice.
!!!!
OK, what does this look like? Just saw it today, it is a new OREGON grinder (available March, 2015).
No idea what pricing will be. No idea from the photo how much will be metal, how much will be plastic, how it compares to the HF type models. Oregon usually makes pretty good stuff. Comes with a 3/8 inch wheel, with an optional 1/8 inch wheel.Looks like a fixed grinder head tilt angle and no vise tilt.
As the guy on "Laugh In" used to say, "Verrrry Interesting!"
View attachment 393904
Philbert
Except for the color, it does not look much different from mine, which is all orange. Yours might actually be newer. I'm surprised the owner still had the original carton. I stopped using mine after I bought my second sharpener made in Italy at an estate auction. My new one has hydraulic assist for chain locking. Heck, I did not know your were in the market for one of these.Last One!!! (?)
Ordered this one off of eBay, before I found out about the new Oregon grinder, above. Looks like the 'old' HF model.
View attachment 394065
Still looks and feels cheap, but less complex than the other two I acquired. Have to print up some 'Silvey' labels before I can give it a fair trial.
One thing I like about this one is that the 4, self-tapping screws securing the wheel guard could be replaced with machine scenes and nuts if they strip out in the plastic from repeated use.
This does not look possible with the guards on some similar models. Since I already had one wheel explode, this is important to me. Only has the 1/8" wheel.
Philbert
Yours might actually be newer.
Heck, I did not know your were in the market for one of these.
spikin of which. did you ever try the others in that batch or get others and try?... Since I already had one wheel explode, this is important to me...
Philbert
spikin of which. did you ever try the others in that batch or get others and try?
That is absolutely identical to my 'Nick the Grinder'. Made in Italy.
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