HARRY BARKER
ArboristSite Guru
here goes.
it is tough to get pics inside the firebox
here's a couple action shots
sweet!! that looks like it works good
home built secondary burn chamber
- Thread starter JeffHK454
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
sweet!! that looks like it works good
hotrod1950f1
ArboristSite Lurker
Moodoo am I seeing what you are doing in your stove correctly. Are you injecting hot air above you fire in the main burn chamber. Also how are you forcing the air through the pipe. Thanks
Joe
Joe
Moddoo
ArboristSite Operative
Basically, yes.
The secondary air is coming from the optional forced draft port in the back.
this port is in the center of the back of the furnace. It enters a preheat chamber, before entering the firebox below the grate in the back.
This is where I attached my new pipe.
I am not using a blower for the air.
It is sucked into the stove by the draft..
I very rarely have any smoke coming out, and have regular 12 hour burn times in the winter.
We use the gas furnace only when we are out of town.
I went through about 5 1/2 cords heating my 1958, 2000 sq ft rambler. with the original single pane windows and insulation.
She likes the house at 75*! LOL
hotrod1950f1
ArboristSite Lurker
What is everyone using to adhere replaced and/or additional firebrick in there stove. I have a Royall add on stove built circa 1980 and I am just trying to make it as efficient as possible.
Last edited:
Moddoo
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the kind words guys.
I just had to do something after seeing all of these fancy "new" stoves out there!
The pipe is 1" coming in and Tees to 3/4" if I remember right.
The holes are 3/16" I believe.
I drilled approximately enough holes to equal the area of the inlet pipe.
The extra couplings and such are a product of available lengths at menards, and being able to assemble/fit everything in the firebox.
My firebrick is also from menards. mine are all gravity adhered.
adding the extra bricks and roof, really helped keep the box temps up for the secondary burn.
I just had to do something after seeing all of these fancy "new" stoves out there!
The pipe is 1" coming in and Tees to 3/4" if I remember right.
The holes are 3/16" I believe.
I drilled approximately enough holes to equal the area of the inlet pipe.
The extra couplings and such are a product of available lengths at menards, and being able to assemble/fit everything in the firebox.
My firebrick is also from menards. mine are all gravity adhered.
adding the extra bricks and roof, really helped keep the box temps up for the secondary burn.
Moddoo
ArboristSite Operative
The shelf is 4 fire bricks.
I "mitered" them to fit together and on top of the 2 on the sides.
I have to say that I got lucky with the dimensions there.
The secondary air can be reduced by screwing a reducing fitting on the outside 1 1/2" pipe (that is the size of the original fitting for the optional forced draft blower) But, there is no need for it with the way mine is set up.
thanks for clarifying... any chance you can take a few pic's of the shelve setup, showing fire brick?
Reburn tubes
Moddo - Thanks for the nice pics and making the bold move. I was just going to do the same with my furnace and I hadn't seen anyone who had done it before. Thanks. Looks like it works good too!
Are those tubes just plain old cast iron? I'm going to try doing all 3/4" using two holes in the front of the furnace coming off of the forced air blower baffle. The only question I had was, are firebricks absolutely necessary? The walls on my furnace are angled / \ like this above where firebricks normally sit on the bottom, so stacking bricks is impossible up the sides. I do have a "secondary heat exchanger", but I'd like to burn up those gases before going out the chimney, anything to get more heat out of my wood.
Not sure how to post pictures, but I'll try to learn and put some up. Hoping it will work. . .
Oh, and if I read your post right, you put 8 holes in the tubes based on the size of the hole coming into the furnace. 1.5" / 3/16" is my math correct?
Moddo - Thanks for the nice pics and making the bold move. I was just going to do the same with my furnace and I hadn't seen anyone who had done it before. Thanks. Looks like it works good too!
Are those tubes just plain old cast iron? I'm going to try doing all 3/4" using two holes in the front of the furnace coming off of the forced air blower baffle. The only question I had was, are firebricks absolutely necessary? The walls on my furnace are angled / \ like this above where firebricks normally sit on the bottom, so stacking bricks is impossible up the sides. I do have a "secondary heat exchanger", but I'd like to burn up those gases before going out the chimney, anything to get more heat out of my wood.
Not sure how to post pictures, but I'll try to learn and put some up. Hoping it will work. . .
Oh, and if I read your post right, you put 8 holes in the tubes based on the size of the hole coming into the furnace. 1.5" / 3/16" is my math correct?
Last edited:
kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
it is somewhat late
Hi All
The pictures of this topic on page 1 where I see the plate with holes, what I need is what kind of steel do I need to make it lasting longer with this high heat.
I have burnd this winter with a tryout, it works, and now I want to make the plate so that heat will warmup the secondary air properly, so that the combusting of smoke starts sooner and easy.
thanks.
Hi All
The pictures of this topic on page 1 where I see the plate with holes, what I need is what kind of steel do I need to make it lasting longer with this high heat.
I have burnd this winter with a tryout, it works, and now I want to make the plate so that heat will warmup the secondary air properly, so that the combusting of smoke starts sooner and easy.
thanks.
ronsetoe
ArboristSite Lurker
I am not understanding the question? When I installed my tubes I used cast iron with fire brick above the tubes. Mine enter the front of the furnace through the bottom and turn up the rear and back towards the top. What furnace are you trying to modify? Shoot some pics and we might be able to help. Welcome from overseas!
Last edited:
kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi There
Wel again a new message, this site loosed it after try to post it because it ask again for the password, nasty.
Here are the pictures, I have put firebrick in it, fermaculite on top for refection of heat, and above that another plate to make the pad for the smoke longer.
als I have put in a window airwash, who works fine, but after some months it get dirty, and also a tube in the back, but this don,t give enough heat air for secondairy combustion.
Somewhere on this site there are pictures of vlame plate with holes in it, this way I tryed but I have see your attemt what is very good indeed, I wil also first try the tubes.
nice done.
pictures.
inside
thanks.
Wel again a new message, this site loosed it after try to post it because it ask again for the password, nasty.
Here are the pictures, I have put firebrick in it, fermaculite on top for refection of heat, and above that another plate to make the pad for the smoke longer.
als I have put in a window airwash, who works fine, but after some months it get dirty, and also a tube in the back, but this don,t give enough heat air for secondairy combustion.
Somewhere on this site there are pictures of vlame plate with holes in it, this way I tryed but I have see your attemt what is very good indeed, I wil also first try the tubes.
nice done.
pictures.
inside
thanks.
Last edited:
romulus
New Member
Exchange of ideas needed
Hi to all,
I have a Franklin fire box stove, so the doors are not sealed and even may not be sealed since the air intake for burning cannot do for the small openings at the bottom part of the doors. At the top part of the doors, one of the four doors has even a thinner wall at the end to let more air in for combustion.
In order to try the secondary combustion idea, I would have to introduce a vertical baffles to keep the temps high enough (without refractory bricks?!) and perhaps a forcing air blower, say, as produced by Secoh.
Can anybody help me with a piece of advice how to arrange a horizontal baffle with holes instead of tubes. I think the Franklin stove has already an improvised secondary combustion camera, an additional baffle plate with holes added would however better its functioning. But I do not know how to introduce preheated air above the horizontal baffle with holes. Several pics from this website didn't show how to, alas.
I can imagine the way some Tempwood stoves take in air from outside through 2 inlets in the top plate of the stove, so I could put 2 small tubes through the fume output pipe -- for outside air input --- even without any blower. - Thanks
Hi to all,
I have a Franklin fire box stove, so the doors are not sealed and even may not be sealed since the air intake for burning cannot do for the small openings at the bottom part of the doors. At the top part of the doors, one of the four doors has even a thinner wall at the end to let more air in for combustion.
In order to try the secondary combustion idea, I would have to introduce a vertical baffles to keep the temps high enough (without refractory bricks?!) and perhaps a forcing air blower, say, as produced by Secoh.
Can anybody help me with a piece of advice how to arrange a horizontal baffle with holes instead of tubes. I think the Franklin stove has already an improvised secondary combustion camera, an additional baffle plate with holes added would however better its functioning. But I do not know how to introduce preheated air above the horizontal baffle with holes. Several pics from this website didn't show how to, alas.
I can imagine the way some Tempwood stoves take in air from outside through 2 inlets in the top plate of the stove, so I could put 2 small tubes through the fume output pipe -- for outside air input --- even without any blower. - Thanks
ronsetoe
ArboristSite Lurker
kees are you getting the air heated up enough with you design? This is what I designed my secondary burn tube after for my furnace. I used cast and it worked well. It is a good 4 page read with plenty of pictures for ideas.
http://nepacrossroads.com/about2066.html#p13410
good luck
http://nepacrossroads.com/about2066.html#p13410
good luck
kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi There
Hi
I have calculated the pad of the air, it has 1.6 sq feet x 2 so for preheat alswel for heat, tubes of 2 inch you get then 6 feet x 2, then you have a real afterburn with very low emissions.
I go make a vlame-plate from hollow square pipe welded togehter, so I have a very long pad, 3.2 sq feet meter for the afterheater alone so I am there already with a vertical airsupply pipe.
Thanks for for the link I wil for sure studie it.
regards
Hi
I have calculated the pad of the air, it has 1.6 sq feet x 2 so for preheat alswel for heat, tubes of 2 inch you get then 6 feet x 2, then you have a real afterburn with very low emissions.
I go make a vlame-plate from hollow square pipe welded togehter, so I have a very long pad, 3.2 sq feet meter for the afterheater alone so I am there already with a vertical airsupply pipe.
Thanks for for the link I wil for sure studie it.
regards
kees53
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi All
It is a time ago that I was here! I have done some things with the stove like a 4 tubes in it and more heat exchange, however it get difficult
to go secondairy, I have thick fire bricks yellow ones and I think the fire itslef is to cool.
I hear that primairy has to be shut off with wood, is this right? I think it is a combination of air get in it.
here some pictures of different tryouts.
and the old one 6 months ago
The firebrick get black from smoke and burn clean, however a big part of it does not give the idea of to cool
fire.
I have seen stoves use not firebrick but ceramic plate in it. A idea how to insulate burnchamber best? this
is still problem.
regards
kees
It is a time ago that I was here! I have done some things with the stove like a 4 tubes in it and more heat exchange, however it get difficult
to go secondairy, I have thick fire bricks yellow ones and I think the fire itslef is to cool.
I hear that primairy has to be shut off with wood, is this right? I think it is a combination of air get in it.
here some pictures of different tryouts.
and the old one 6 months ago
The firebrick get black from smoke and burn clean, however a big part of it does not give the idea of to cool
fire.
I have seen stoves use not firebrick but ceramic plate in it. A idea how to insulate burnchamber best? this
is still problem.
regards
kees
Similar threads
