Homelite Chainsaws

[struggle]

This is the last of what I have in the computer..........and I'm too sick to make another run out to the shop for some XP1130 and 750 pics...

How about a big honkin' PBR can pic and a different Super E-Z...............wearing a Poulan Pro bar (and some mean-lookin' home-made spikes) and making a little creamsicle very nervous. "You WILL do all the dirty, scratchy work so I can keep my paint. If you don't, that 900D will kick your ass. You'll end up smashed up like the Echo behind the freezer. We'll get you a new clutch cover if you play ball."...:jester:

I will see you Super E-Z and raise you a standard E-Z picked from a 92 year old man selling out and matching case to boot.....no beer though

 

[Eccentric]

Nice!

I spy a Homelite C-52 and a McCulloch 660 as well...

 

[struggle]

Nice!

I spy a C-52 as well...

Try C-51 you should be ashamed to miss that It has the I don't want to catch one way roller clutch starter

The SP125 is sharing that bench there as well

 

[Eccentric]

Magic fingers starter system. The later pawl-type starters used on C-52's had the same 'flat' starter housing that your C-51 has. Since I couldn't see the model # from that angle.........I guessed...:yoyo:

 

[RandyMac]

Homelite, the AMC of chainsaw manufacturers when it comes to starters.

 

[Eccentric]

Homelite, the AMC of chainsaw manufacturers when it comes to starters.

AMC used Delco starters.....:jester:

So in that way I see your point. Homelite did outsource their starters for a while (Fairbanks Morse).


They experimented with a LOUSEY roller bearing starter system (which worked about as well as a Lubri-Mac oiler on a D-30 McCulloch) for a few years, then went to a much better pawl setup. McCulloch had the pawl-type starter system in use far earlier than Homelite. Good thing, as you've gotta pull the damn rope on them so much more than on any comparable Homelite of a similar vintage...

 

[Ambull]

Homelite, the AMC of chainsaw manufacturers when it comes to starters.

lol I almost spit my coffee on the computer screen....

 

[struggle]

ON this little XL that I am delaing with no oil output I see no issues with the diapghram and the check valve is all good.

I noticed on the vent line in the top of the tank there is a little brass like tube in the end of the vent line. I am guessing it is there for the purpose of a check valve to go over the end of that? There was nothing on it but some black smudge which I am asuming was a duck bill valve at one time?

 

[struggle]

Yup, IIRC.

I'll post this again for our bretheren in Iowa.
View attachment 199258

Let me know if this works or I'll try a better scan.

No need to rescan. I see now that I have no duck bill. I am going to reassemlbe with one and try it out. Thanks for this

 

[67L36Driver]

Homie XL oil tank duckbill.

That little brass tube is actually a length of sintered bronze not unlike the material in the old GM fuel filters at the carb inlet.

You are supposed to slide the tube/duckbill back and forth in the pressure line to regulate the crankcase pressure on the oil tank and to bleed off pressure when the engine is not running.

If you leave it out, there is the possibility the pressure would empty the oil tank after use.

 

[struggle]

Homie XL oil tank duckbill.

That little brass tube is actually a length of sintered bronze not unlike the material in the old GM fuel filters at the carb inlet.

You are supposed to slide the tube/duckbill back and forth in the pressure line to regulate the crankcase pressure on the oil tank and to bleed off pressure when the engine is not running.

If you leave it out, there is the possibility the pressure would empty the oil tank after use.

I put a duckbill valve on the line that had the sintered bronze deal and now it pumps oil out to the bar. The diagram shows a duckbill. Is the bronze deal supposed to have anything else contected to it? It was partially in the line half way. I could blow air through it and see straight through it as well. It did not seem like much of a restriction as it could not hold in tank pressure.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I put a duckbill valve on the line that had the sintered bronze deal and now it pumps oil out to the bar. The diagram shows a duckbill. Is the bronze deal supposed to have anything else contected to it? It was partially in the line half way. I could blow air through it and see straight through it as well. It did not seem like much of a restriction as it could not hold in tank pressure.

No, just the line, the little bronze piece and the duckbill. The sintered iron piece is supposed to keep it from oiling too much.. the more of the pourous piece is exposed the less it's supposed to oil, Less pressure in the tank. If you need more oiling just shove the iron piece all the way into the line and don't leave any of it exposed. By now it's probably all clogged up anyway, unless you've cleaned it, I never do.

 

[homelitejim]

I couldn't resist this little guy when I saw it and had to take it home of course I had to hand over a crisp 20 dollar bill but schucks it was so darn cute.

This must be a later one as it has A/V. Now the bad news, unless I can clean it up or fix it some how the clutch is slipping, I replaced the pressed in bearing in the sprocket drum and it helped but still slipping. Is it possible to pry out on the clutch ends to get better contact as it is in the shape of an s or do I just need to find a new or less used clutch?
It also included a case, some extra fuel and oil caps, a couple extra chains that are to small and a bar mounted chain sharpener.

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

HJ, That was a pretty good score! The sharpener alone is worth $20. I have used a clutch, if you need one. But I think they are available in the Stens catalog.
Jim

 

[67L36Driver]

Little red Homie 'S' clutch.

Do not pry on the 'S' clutch. They are cast iron and will break before bending. More than likely the drum is worn oversize or is too big to begin with.

Whatever you do, do not run the thing without the drum and just the 'S' casting in place. One or both of the legs may break off and become a dangerous missle.

 

[67L36Driver]

Little red Homies Rule!

View attachment 199494

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

Cute little Homelites



Whole rack of S-2 / XL saws...and a 'rare' blue Super 2. lol

 

[67L36Driver]

C5 fuel tank.

How many screws hold the tank to the chassis? I found four but I see a quantity of six on the IPL listed.

Need to get to the oiler/oil tank as it don't (oil).

And, fix the fuel tank leak. Missing one screw and another is stripped. I'd rather wrestle with just the tank and not the whole thing.

Waiting for the paint to dry on my XL-101 project.

 

[67L36Driver]

C5 Oil tank.

Yup, only four screws and the wrap handle to remove the fuel tank. Plus, cut the rock hard fuel line.

Looks like the drive side plate has to come off to get the oil tank apart. Yikes!

 

[Eccentric]

How many screws hold the tank to the chassis? I found four but I see a quantity of six on the IPL listed.

Need to get to the oiler/oil tank as it don't (oil).

And, fix the fuel tank leak. Missing one screw and another is stripped. I'd rather wrestle with just the tank and not the whole thing.

Waiting for the paint to dry on my XL-101 project.

It's been a while since I've pulled a C/XP series tank. IIRC, there's three or four that go in from the front, and two from the sides. I'll go out in the shop to check a saw once it cools down here.

The oil tank pickup is probably bunged up with chips and mung. Every one of these saws that I've dealt with has had that problem.