Take out the starter dog screws. There you will find your #12-24 holes.
I have an XL-12 flywheel if you need one. Same as SXL.
Homelite Chainsaws
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Take out the starter dog screws. There you will find your #12-24 holes.
I have an XL-12 flywheel if you need one. Same as SXL.
I wonder what the factory service manual says about pulling it. Now I see it was already answered...
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Yep. Thread the 12-24 puller screws into the pawl pivot bolt holes. When I'm too lazy to mess with the pawl screws and a puller, I've had good luck with hanging the whole saw by the flywheel by holding one of the fins at the root with channel lock pliers. I have a helper hold the jack screw from a puller against the crank snout (tapered end fits into the pocket). I've done the whole thing myself when I haven't had a helper. Balanced the jack screw against the side of my 'pliers' hand...
A couple raps on the jack screw with a 3 pound sledge breaks the flywheel loose. It's a good idea to have the flywheel nut threaded onto the crank to where it's flush with the end. This helps protect the crank snout from damage, and keeps the flywheel together with the rest of the saw when it busts loose. Don't want the powerhead dropping onto the floor or my foot!
Even when using a puller, I still like to lift up on the flywheel......either by prying it away from the crankcase with a screwdriver, or lifting the saw by the flywheel. This prevents battering of the bearings when whacking on the puller (which of course transfers the blows to the crank).
ChainLightning......I can provide you with an electronic ign SXL flywheel if you need one. I have two spares, and can 'get by' with having just one.
Buck1278
ArboristSite Operative
Homelite Super 650
Here is a Super 650 that I picked up earlier this week. As you can see it needs some parts.View attachment 255558View attachment 255559View attachment 255560
Here is a Super 650 that I picked up earlier this week. As you can see it needs some parts.View attachment 255558View attachment 255559View attachment 255560
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
Yep. Thread the 12-24 puller screws into the pawl pivot bolt holes. When I'm too lazy to mess with the pawl screws and a puller, I've had good luck with hanging the whole saw by the flywheel by holding one of the fins at the root with channel lock pliers. I have a helper hold the jack screw from a puller against the crank snout (tapered end fits into the pocket). I've done the whole thing myself when I haven't had a helper. Balanced the jack screw against the side of my 'pliers' hand...
A couple raps on the jack screw with a 3 pound sledge breaks the flywheel loose. It's a good idea to have the flywheel nut threaded onto the crank to where it's flush with the end. This helps protect the crank snout from damage, and keeps the flywheel together with the rest of the saw when it busts loose. Don't want the powerhead dropping onto the floor or my foot!
Even when using a puller, I still like to lift up on the flywheel......either by prying it away from the crankcase with a screwdriver, or lifting the saw by the flywheel. This prevents battering of the bearings when whacking on the puller (which of course transfers the blows to the crank).
ChainLightning......I can provide you with an electronic ign SXL flywheel if you need one. I have two spares, and can 'get by' with having just one.
Well two fins are already done for.....thanks for the tips. I will probably end up taking you up on that offer. That is if everything else goes smoothly
. Let me know the price if you could. Thanks
watsonr
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Only the hardest and most expensive ones to find... your in luck!! Muffler, piston, and rear handle are them... buy a lottery ticket, you hit everyone on that one. It is a pretty good looking saw and I actually think they are harder to find than a 750.
Buck1278
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, I was kinda thinking the same thing when I first looked at it! But that could make it all the more fun trying to get those parts too.:bang:
watsonr
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That is if you like playing those games for YEARS! I can't seem to remember last time I saw a piston for sale. Rear handle sure, about two actually and the mufflers, yep, $250 each, one not long ago on eBay.
That's why I said.... go get a lottery ticket, you hit big time. Pick-3 would be my choice!
Don't give up, they are out there.
Buck1278
ArboristSite Operative
That's exactly what I was thinking when I bought it, "could take YEARS". But I didn't want to pass it up either. I only had a limited idea of how scarce parts would be for this model, but I figured if I found one in the first place I could chip away at the missing parts. Hopefully its not a lost cause. I was hoping I might be able to find some people with parts here, along with looking locally.
watsonr
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Like I said, there out there. Talking to the right person is the key!
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
You have the right attitude Buck1278. Patience is the key when trying to fix up older saws. You'd be surprised when and where parts may turn up. There are pistons floating around. The handle bracket could be made from a piece of aluminum if you just wanted to get her going (and be stronger than the original mag part). Mufflers for some reason have became a rarity, but one is apt to turn up if you keep looking. Key is not to give up. Heck, if you like welding, you could rig up a muffler too, just to run it. Anyway, you nailed it. Hunting the parts and meeting great people in the process is what its all about.
Dan
It's the thrill of the chase!!:msp_smile:
whatscooking
ArboristSite Operative
Back together with a 925
After a bit of a fight i have the tank apart. In doing so there are two screws that have their heads messed up enough that i have thought about taking a Dremel and making a slot for a flat screw driver to fit or i did stop by Fastenal and got a package of screws that will need to be cut to length. My first question is will this type of shinny screw work, i mean the other ones are a dull looking machine looking screw, are they a tuffer screw? Also some how one of the fins are broken off of the flywheel, can i take another one off to balance it, this is the later style flywheel so not many to be had. Lastly when you guys thread in a new fuel line do you lay it on the bottom of the tank or leave it hanging.
After a bit of a fight i have the tank apart. In doing so there are two screws that have their heads messed up enough that i have thought about taking a Dremel and making a slot for a flat screw driver to fit or i did stop by Fastenal and got a package of screws that will need to be cut to length. My first question is will this type of shinny screw work, i mean the other ones are a dull looking machine looking screw, are they a tuffer screw? Also some how one of the fins are broken off of the flywheel, can i take another one off to balance it, this is the later style flywheel so not many to be had. Lastly when you guys thread in a new fuel line do you lay it on the bottom of the tank or leave it hanging.
Check with Chainsawlady. Joyce had a bunch on hand back when I was looking for one for my XL-800.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Something I haven't seen in person before.
Stopped by to see my friend Dave and trade parts with him. After swapping parts, we BS'd and talked saws for a while. Got to talking about the very corroded Homelite 775D that he's resurecting. I mentioned the four petal pyramid reed setup on those saws and he said his saw had a six petal reed. That didn't sound right to me, so I asked him to show me the reed block. This is what he dug out of the parts box...
It's a Go Power six petal aftermarket reed setup for Homelite Kart engines. Saw one listed on feebay a few years ago, but had never seen one in person. The reeds are shot, but it looks like the reed block will clean up. I just noticed that it has impulse holes for both Tillotson HL and McCulloch/Walbro flatback carbs. Very interesting. I've seen intake manifolds for West Bend and Power Products kart engines which allow them to take two Homelite reed blocks. IIRC they were Go Power units as well.
He obtained a stock four petal reed setup to use on the saw for now. If he can scare up some good reeds for the Go Power setup he may run it later (if I can't trade him something for it so I can use it on my 900D).
Edit:
Lookie what I found in a quick "Go Power Reed" ebay search...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-KAR...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4abcbfb19e&vxp=mtr
Stopped by to see my friend Dave and trade parts with him. After swapping parts, we BS'd and talked saws for a while. Got to talking about the very corroded Homelite 775D that he's resurecting. I mentioned the four petal pyramid reed setup on those saws and he said his saw had a six petal reed. That didn't sound right to me, so I asked him to show me the reed block. This is what he dug out of the parts box...
It's a Go Power six petal aftermarket reed setup for Homelite Kart engines. Saw one listed on feebay a few years ago, but had never seen one in person. The reeds are shot, but it looks like the reed block will clean up. I just noticed that it has impulse holes for both Tillotson HL and McCulloch/Walbro flatback carbs. Very interesting. I've seen intake manifolds for West Bend and Power Products kart engines which allow them to take two Homelite reed blocks. IIRC they were Go Power units as well.
He obtained a stock four petal reed setup to use on the saw for now. If he can scare up some good reeds for the Go Power setup he may run it later (if I can't trade him something for it so I can use it on my 900D).
Edit:
Lookie what I found in a quick "Go Power Reed" ebay search...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-KAR...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4abcbfb19e&vxp=mtr
Last edited:
Stopped by to see my friend Dave and trade parts with him. After swapping parts, we BS'd and talked saws for a while. Got to talking about the very corroded Homelite 775D that he's resurecting. I mentioned the four petal pyramid reed setup on those saws and he said his saw had a six petal reed. That didn't sound right to me, so I asked him to show me the reed block. This is what he dug out of the parts box...
It's a Go Power six petal aftermarket reed setup for Homelite Kart engines. Saw one listed on feebay a few years ago, but had never seen one in person. The reeds are shot, but it looks like the reed block will clean up. I just noticed that it has impulse holes for both Tillotson HL and McCulloch/Walbro flatback carbs. Very interesting. I've seen intake manifolds for West Bend and Power Products kart engines which allow them to take two Homelite reed blocks. IIRC they were Go Power units as well.
He obtained a stock four petal reed setup to use on the saw for now. If he can scare up some good reeds for the Go Power setup he may run it later (if I can't trade him something for it so I can use it on my 900D).
Edit:
Lookie what I found in a quick "Go Power Reed" ebay search...
VINTAGE KART TILLOTSON CARB W/GO POWER REEDS Racing Go Kart | eBay
Looks like its my greater local area
I may actually have one of these reed assemblies in a Mac intake I pulled off a kart engine. As much as I hate to separate the set, I just have to try it out.
Chris B.
Toolslinger
ArboristSite Operative
Super XL
A friend of mine asked me if I could help him with his saw. He's got a Super XL. Says he can start it, but can't keep it running. That sounded pretty much like my XL-12 issue that was an easy fix, so I picked it up when I was down there yesterday dropping off some woodworking machines.
Generally it looks like it hasn't been abused. I just dumped the fuel right off before I remembered I was out of mix, so I haven't tried to start it yet. Have to get gas a little later today, so will cure that condition. I checked the plug, and it is the correct plug, and looks ok. Perhaps a bit oily, but not fouled, pitted, or burned. Gap is right.
Air filter is fine. Inside the filter in the carb are is nice and clean. Fuel line is still in good shape, and the fuel filter is clean and in place.
So I pulled the muffler to make sure the spark arrester wasn't plugged up.
I found some scoring on the piston. Looking around the cylinder I see no damage on the 2/3 of it I can see through the exhaust port.
I have no compression gauge. However, pulling it over, there was plenty of compression.
So, the question is... Is that amount of scoring on the piston a fatal condition to it? I know, you're all about to tell me to just drop a new piston in there, but I don't know that he will want to invest in parts, and I haven't been that far inside a saw (or any engine) to be eager to do so... He doesn't use the saw to heat his house, or pay his bills. He happens to live in the woods, and gets enough fall to need a saw, and this is what he happened to get.
So, thoughts on can this saw run as is with very limited use? This isn't a time sensitive machine as I dropped off one of mine with him, so he's covered. Just taking a real quick look on the bay indicates a replacement piston is going to cost more than he paid for the saw.
While he fully understands the quality of a vintage machine (we're both antique wood/metal working machine fans) I don't know if he's going to be a patron saint on a tired saw... I won't trash it, but by the same token, it might not be a viable fix for him or I without coming up with some real inexpensive parts at some point down the road. Perhaps it'll just sit in the corner for a while until I find it a donor...
A friend of mine asked me if I could help him with his saw. He's got a Super XL. Says he can start it, but can't keep it running. That sounded pretty much like my XL-12 issue that was an easy fix, so I picked it up when I was down there yesterday dropping off some woodworking machines.
Generally it looks like it hasn't been abused. I just dumped the fuel right off before I remembered I was out of mix, so I haven't tried to start it yet. Have to get gas a little later today, so will cure that condition. I checked the plug, and it is the correct plug, and looks ok. Perhaps a bit oily, but not fouled, pitted, or burned. Gap is right.
Air filter is fine. Inside the filter in the carb are is nice and clean. Fuel line is still in good shape, and the fuel filter is clean and in place.
So I pulled the muffler to make sure the spark arrester wasn't plugged up.
I found some scoring on the piston. Looking around the cylinder I see no damage on the 2/3 of it I can see through the exhaust port.
I have no compression gauge. However, pulling it over, there was plenty of compression.
So, the question is... Is that amount of scoring on the piston a fatal condition to it? I know, you're all about to tell me to just drop a new piston in there, but I don't know that he will want to invest in parts, and I haven't been that far inside a saw (or any engine) to be eager to do so... He doesn't use the saw to heat his house, or pay his bills. He happens to live in the woods, and gets enough fall to need a saw, and this is what he happened to get.
So, thoughts on can this saw run as is with very limited use? This isn't a time sensitive machine as I dropped off one of mine with him, so he's covered. Just taking a real quick look on the bay indicates a replacement piston is going to cost more than he paid for the saw.
While he fully understands the quality of a vintage machine (we're both antique wood/metal working machine fans) I don't know if he's going to be a patron saint on a tired saw... I won't trash it, but by the same token, it might not be a viable fix for him or I without coming up with some real inexpensive parts at some point down the road. Perhaps it'll just sit in the corner for a while until I find it a donor...
A friend of mine asked me if I could help him with his saw. He's got a Super XL. Says he can start it, but can't keep it running. That sounded pretty much like my XL-12 issue that was an easy fix, so I picked it up when I was down there yesterday dropping off some woodworking machines.
Generally it looks like it hasn't been abused. I just dumped the fuel right off before I remembered I was out of mix, so I haven't tried to start it yet. Have to get gas a little later today, so will cure that condition. I checked the plug, and it is the correct plug, and looks ok. Perhaps a bit oily, but not fouled, pitted, or burned. Gap is right.
Air filter is fine. Inside the filter in the carb are is nice and clean. Fuel line is still in good shape, and the fuel filter is clean and in place.
So I pulled the muffler to make sure the spark arrester wasn't plugged up.
I found some scoring on the piston. Looking around the cylinder I see no damage on the 2/3 of it I can see through the exhaust port.
I have no compression gauge. However, pulling it over, there was plenty of compression.
So, the question is... Is that amount of scoring on the piston a fatal condition to it? I know, you're all about to tell me to just drop a new piston in there, but I don't know that he will want to invest in parts, and I haven't been that far inside a saw (or any engine) to be eager to do so... He doesn't use the saw to heat his house, or pay his bills. He happens to live in the woods, and gets enough fall to need a saw, and this is what he happened to get.
So, thoughts on can this saw run as is with very limited use? This isn't a time sensitive machine as I dropped off one of mine with him, so he's covered. Just taking a real quick look on the bay indicates a replacement piston is going to cost more than he paid for the saw.
While he fully understands the quality of a vintage machine (we're both antique wood/metal working machine fans) I don't know if he's going to be a patron saint on a tired saw... I won't trash it, but by the same token, it might not be a viable fix for him or I without coming up with some real inexpensive parts at some point down the road. Perhaps it'll just sit in the corner for a while until I find it a donor...
Yeah, that piston looks pretty bad. Fortunately those saws aren't that hard to work on. I saw a piston kit on 'the bay for around 30 some dollars so it may not be too expensive to get it going again. It probably needs some fuel system work also.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I would not run that saw with that piston, I would look at your local scrap yard for a donor saw, that would be the cheapest way.
