Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Was wondering how hard it is to rebuild one of these. Never tore one all the way down before. (Just simple parts for maintenance) I need to replace the crank seals. This one is fairly new so I imagine it has the electronic system. Any idea what year? It has the plastic decals on it (mostly tore all the way off :laugh:) They just say "Homelite Super XL". It has the auto oiler with manual override.
I have rebuilt a few Homelite's in the past...including the dreaded boot replacement on the 330. I ended up tearing that all down and replacing the crank seals in it. It was not bad except for all the parts!

One word, EASY. These saws are a pleasure to work on, I have bought a bunch from the scrap and tore them all down and rebuilt them, quadrupled my money. I have 2 on the bench now and a few in buckets as parts donors, might be time to get some more running.
 
One word, EASY. These saws are a pleasure to work on, I have bought a bunch from the scrap and tore them all down and rebuilt them, quadrupled my money. I have 2 on the bench now and a few in buckets as parts donors, might be time to get some more running.

Every time I get to the scrap yard seems like all the saws went into the crusher just a few days before I came. It's a shame to. If people realized that they could make a lot more money by putting them on Craigslist. Only takes a few minutes and a little time to sell em. But time is money.
 
Since the SW80 had a bad bar, and the chain was on it's last legs, I started kicking around the idea of converting over to .404, and getting a bar that would let me run the same chain that I have for my McCulloch 795. Then I could at least save the price of a new chain for the immediate future... I found a couple places that list 10 tooth .404 sprockets with a 5/8 bore and a single key that's right at the same outside diameter as the 1/2" sprocket I have. Nobody seemed interested in broaching the second key, so my thinking was to run it with 1 key, because lets face it, how much cutting is the saw really going to see...

Well, while I was pondering all that, I tripped across a bar and chain on flea bay... A little longer than I had which is good, and it had a 1/2 chain with it, and a ton of tooth left... So I hit the BIN and for half the price of one of the .404 sprockets, I'm back in business... Bar and chain came in the mail today. Mounted it up, touched up the teeth which weren't bad, chased the rakers down to .025, and gave it a whirl...

Nice, strong, straight cut. Huge chips. I think we have success!

On to the next saw...

I sadly missed on a Homelite cut-all of some flavor at an auction yesterday... Someone REALLY wanted it. Actually 2 people did. I dropped out at $50, and that thing kept going up to $175 before buyers premium. It didn't look that nice for sure, I hope they know something... I didn't ever get to see it in person, but it looked to be based around an XL-12... Perhaps next time...

Cheers! - Tim
 
Good job Tim. One key would have been fine. You can set those 1/2" chain rakers to .040". That cutoff saw is probably a DM20. I'd like to have one, but not at that price.
 
I hadn't paid much attention, but the Partner that was a lot newer than the Homelite went for about half as much. Different bidders too, so I guess those two guys really wanted that machine. Perhaps they were former employees and knew something about it. Me, I just wanted something older, that I would be likely to be able to work on, and not break the bank... The fact that it struck me as an XL-12 base told me I could bring it back from pretty much whatever it had been through...

I figured the rakers could go lower... I only have an .025 guage currently. I need to get something deeper for the SW80, and the 795... I guess I'll just suck it up and buy a full set so I'm covered for whatever I happen across.. It will be interesting to drop them down and see what kind of chips it will pull...
 
I have a 922 p\c on the way but with the 925 so very hard to find the p\c i thought i would try to save the old one if possible. In my goose chase looking for these parts i have found someone that is getting pistons made for the 925 and with speaking with him it was said they clean up cylinders by honeing them i thought he said becuase they are chromed they can be saved. I just want spare parts for the three 925es i now have.

Got the 922 onto the 925, did it twice- got it almost together and saw two washers in my parts bowl, they go on both sides of the connecting rod on the wrist pin. It started right up. For the heck of it i put a compressing guage on and got 145, should of i scuffed up the new cylinder or will it set in and get higher with some run time?
 
I need a little parts help for a Homelite Ranger 33 16"

A man I know gave me a Homelite ranger 33 this week but it need's a few parts. I searched the I.P.L. and found the part numbers I need but where to get them?. I am not a Homelite person but I thought I could get her a going and keep her in the back of my Polaris Ranger for a knock around saw. The guy said there is a bearing gone ,open the chain brake cover and you will see. From what I can see it needs....( from the IPL List )

Part 18 UP 04182 NEEDLE BEARING
Part 19 UP 04228 RETAINING RING
and Part 20 UP 04179 CUPPED WASHER
If you have these parts used I may be interested if I cannot get them new? Thanks for any help, Jeff

I pasted this from the main page just to see if anyone here can give me some help 67L36DRIVER has given me some advice from the first posting but I guess It did not transfer to this copy and paste sorry Driver but thanks thanks Jeff
 
Last edited:
SXL flywheel swap

Was pulling apart my newest SXL today. Long story short the flywheel will not budge with the nut off. Usually 1 good tap and they will always pop right off for me. Apparently my 5th tap was to hard and I cracked a fin (completely on accident, I was hitting on the no magnetic side) Did not see any holes for a puller. Now this SXL is from the late 80s or early 90s and it has the electronic ignition. I have a junk 1967 blue SXL that I use for parts. Of course that has points, but would that flywheel swap work? Thanks
 
Was pulling apart my newest SXL today. Long story short the flywheel will not budge with the nut off. Usually 1 good tap and they will always pop right off for me. Apparently my 5th tap was to hard and I cracked a fin (completely on accident, I was hitting on the no magnetic side) Did not see any holes for a puller. Now this SXL is from the late 80s or early 90s and it has the electronic ignition. I have a junk 1967 blue SXL that I use for parts. Of course that has points, but would that flywheel swap work? Thanks

Did it come off? I will have to take a peek but I think they are different. If I run across a stubborn flywheel I will pry on the back with a screw driver while tapping, hitting both sides, one must take care to be gentle.
 
Did it come off? I will have to take a peek but I think they are different. If I run across a stubborn flywheel I will pry on the back with a screw driver while tapping, hitting both sides, one must take care to be gentle.

Yeah I sure did learn my lesson there. No its still on there. I was alone so I had no one to help me out at the moment. Never have broke a flywheel before....but this one looked pretty cheaply casted.
 
Yeah I sure did learn my lesson there. No its still on there. I was alone so I had no one to help me out at the moment. Never have broke a flywheel before....but this one looked pretty cheaply casted.

Usually tapping on the no magnet side works for me. Once I had to buy a puller to remove a flywheel from a C5 Homelite and it wasn't easy then. I wonder if a little WD-40 on it while laying it on it's side for awhile would help.
If you don't damage the flywheel further you probably can still use it. If you care about possible vibration you can remove an equal amount from an opposite side fin. I've done that too..
 
Usually tapping on the no magnet side works for me. Once I had to buy a puller to remove a flywheel from a C5 Homelite and it wasn't easy then. I wonder if a little WD-40 on it while laying it on it's side for awhile would help.
If you don't damage the flywheel further you probably can still use it. If you care about possible vibration you can remove an equal amount from an opposite side fin. I've done that too..

Tried the screwdriver trick and taped on it again. Busted off another damn fin right next to the one. This is really being a pain :bang:. Will keep trying. If I do get it off I might end up what you said and bust off two bottom fins.
 
Tried the screwdriver trick and taped on it again. Busted off another damn fin right next to the one. This is really being a pain :bang:. Will keep trying. If I do get it off I might end up what you said and bust off two bottom fins.

Visit Sears and buy their steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller. Twenty bucks. Stop at the hardware store a buy four or six long #12-24 round head screws and some flat washers.

The extra screws are for when you bend them on occasion.

The only ones I beat on now are Poulan 306 types.
 
Visit Sears and buy their steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller. Twenty bucks. Stop at the hardware store a buy four or six long #12-24 round head screws and some flat washers.

The extra screws are for when you bend them on occasion.

The only ones I beat on now are Poulan 306 types.

It does not have any holes for a puller. I might try a gear puller but i don't know if it will fit around it.
 
da3220f275a08107a463393870a431a1.jpg


What saw do you think the bottom homie bar fits?

(Cross posted from old mag swap meet for more info)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top