Homelite Chainsaws

[ozflea]

The WB-9 is the standard 750 carb. It has smaller venturi compared to the 650 carb, which is a WB-2.

The WB-22 was used on some ultralights and powered parachutes, it has the same venturi size as the WB-2 and was easier to find.

Thanks young fella ................. McBob.

 

[cbfarmall]

Piston from Chris showed up today so I tore him down.

The good: Cylinder is looking not too shabby. With the replacement piston and new rings, we should be able to generate some great compression.

The bad: Bottom portion of the rib the bucking spike bolts to is broken off. Piston pin nearly fell out of the piston when I took off the cylinder. Rod big end bearing has a lot of felt radial play. (Yikes!) All the comp. release stuff is missing.

Will finish disassembly so I can measure/inspect the crank.

Old piston on Left.

Glad I could help. That is actually a 2100S piston. Probably should have mentioned that. I might have the decomp stuff on a junk cylinder.

Chris B.

 

[67L36Driver]

Glad I could help. That is actually a 2100S piston. Probably should have mentioned that. I might have the decomp stuff on a junk cylinder.

Chris B.

Thanks for the piston Chris!

Judging from the carbon build up on topside of second ring, he was run a long time with the ring land broken out.

I'll get pics. up later today of the broken housing. He was deffinately rode hard and put away wet.

Carl.

 

[watsonr]

Carbs appear identical with the following exceptions:

1. Venturi size

2. WB-22 has the brass tube inside where the WB-9 just has a hole in the body, no extension tube.

3. The WB-22 idle screw is mounted in the boss on the carb body. The WB-9 has no idle screw, it is on the saw and contacts the ramp on the throttle arm.

4. The fittings on the WB-22 are much larger OD. The ID appears to be the same.

5. The choke plates turn in opposite directions. This means the detents are drilled on opposite sides on the shafts. If you swap shafts the detents will be on the wrong side and you will be turning the choke plate in the wrong direction. Putting the shaft from the WB-9 into the WB-22 results in you having to push the choke on and pull it off, opposite of what it should be.

6. The stops for the choke plates. On the WB-9 the plate contacts a stop cast into the body of the carb. On the WB-22 that stop has been machined flat and there is a roll pin inserted for the choke plate to contact.


The shafts and covers swapped just fine, physically. Issues to overcome seem to be the choke operation and the size of the fuel inlet fitting on the WB-22. I'm hoping it's as simple as drilling a new hole in the WB-22 choke arm and working out the fuel line sizes.

Swap the inlet, think about the fuel flow. Will the reduced size of the inlet keep the carb from performing to its max? Can you heat the tip of the fuel line to force it on the bigger inlet? Will the saw get used all the time and the choke pulled out make it unusable? Its a lever, choke is up or down, I don't think its a big deal, just backwards.

 

[8433jeff]

Swap the inlet, think about the fuel flow. Will the reduced size of the inlet keep the carb from performing to its max? Can you heat the tip of the fuel line to force it on the bigger inlet? Will the saw get used all the time and the choke pulled out make it unusable? Its a lever, choke is up or down, I don't think its a big deal, just backwards.

Hes got room to put a hole on the other side of the shaft, as in top instead of bottom, or vise versa, to make it work correctly. If he has enough of the choke rod. And thats not a deal breaker, so I don't understand why its not done yet.

 

[thomas1]

Swap the inlet, think about the fuel flow. Will the reduced size of the inlet keep the carb from performing to its max? Can you heat the tip of the fuel line to force it on the bigger inlet? Will the saw get used all the time and the choke pulled out make it unusable? Its a lever, choke is up or down, I don't think its a big deal, just backwards.

The ID of the inlets is the same, no loss of flow there. I don't think the 3/32 fuel line will stretch enough to go over the 1/4" OD fitting. I don't think it will be that big of a deal though, maybe an adapter barb will make it simple. The inlet is pointing in a different direction, though, we will see how it works out.

Hes got room to put a hole on the other side of the shaft, as in top instead of bottom, or vise versa, to make it work correctly. If he has enough of the choke rod. And thats not a deal breaker, so I don't understand why its not done yet.

I like to take my time, Mastermind taught me that you have to leave people wanting more. If you give them everything at once they feel like they didn't get their money's worth.

 

[watsonr]

The ID of the inlets is the same, no loss of flow there. I don't think the 3/32 fuel line will stretch enough to go over the 1/4" OD fitting. I don't think it will be that big of a deal though, maybe an adapter barb will make it simple. The inlet is pointing in a different direction, though, we will see how it works out.
I like to take my time, Mastermind taught me that you have to leave people wanting more. If you give them everything at once they feel like they didn't get their money's worth.

Will the inlet twist around to face the right direction?

 

[67L36Driver]

Broken 2000 crankcase.

Bucking spike rib broken at bottom and small piece off end of flywheel side.

Box him up for now and work on tax returns.

(I have to re-do Mo. returns back to 2009 due to an oversite. Teacher's retirement is a public fund not a private fund. Ugh!)

 

[RandyMac]

 

[watsonr]

Nice picture Randy

 

[jerrycmorrow]

i been enjoyin all the pix you been postin randy.

 

[cbfarmall]

Bucking spike rib broken at bottom and small piece off end of flywheel side.

Box him up for now and work on tax returns.

(I have to re-do Mo. returns back to 2009 due to an oversite. Teacher's retirement is a public fund not a private fund. Ugh!)

Whoever owned that 2000 in the past must not have liked it.

Chris B.

 

[ChainLightning]

Super XL AO Finished Today!

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I would like to thank Aaron a ton for hooking me up with a flywheel for this one. I had some extra's, but this one is electronic so I needed a different one. Needless to say he helped me right out. I would also like to thank ChainsawLady for giving me a great deal on a few NOS parts for this saw, and my SEZ.
Anyways I bought this one a few years ago with a pair of Mac 10-10s. I picked up this saw because I could not believe how good of shape it was in (little did I know that the paint on this one is 100x better than the older ones ). Long story short it was leaking air like crazy and would not stay in tune for it's life. So I checked all the other possible problems and i narrowed it down to the crankseals. When my parts arrived, I tore it all the way down as far as it would go, replaced the seals and also replaced the two main gaskets just to be sure. Then I replaced the rings while I was at it. I slapped her all back together and with a few troubles such as getting the automatic oiler back on, and dealing with the copper work hardened oil lines, she runs 10X better now.I just need to pop a few misc fasteners off one of my parts Homelite's and she will be completely done! It took me a long time to get this done because I waited a few months after I got the parts because I was working on other saws and work had my busy. I am glad it is done. It is a very nice edition to my Super XL/XL-12 collection and I hope to get a ton of chords cut with it since it is pretty much brand new. I know it ain't no big rare saw, but I have always had a soft spot for the Super XL and its bigger and smaller brothers and sisters.

 

[watsonr]

I like to take my time

We're in the home stretch... bring it!

 

[Junorr500]

Homelite 6-22 Help

This is for sale locally. Being recently bitten by CAD I am not yet aware of what current value might be. It turns over and has compression. Apparently it run before it was put away 10 years ago. Any info or opinions about value would be helpful.

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[ChainLightning]

This is for sale locally. Being recently bitten by CAD I am not yet aware of what current value might be. It turns over and has compression. Apparently it run before it was put away 10 years ago. Any info or opinions about value would be helpful.

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That is very similar to the ZIP. This one was made in the mid 50s. I think it is the same cc (77cc). But the main difference is that it is gear driven. That one looks like it has a long bar on it so that brings up the value quite a bit more. Which leads me too saying that saw is only worth what someone is willing to pay. It could go anywhere from $75 and it could go up to $200. Pretty much how bad someone wants it. I think it might go higher because of the longer bar and chain plus it has the cylinder cover. Most of the ZIP styled saws like that that I have seen are missing that cover.

 

[homelitejim]

This is for sale locally. Being recently bitten by CAD I am not yet aware of what current value might be. It turns over and has compression. Apparently it run before it was put away 10 years ago. Any info or opinions about value would be helpful.

Non running saws especially ones below 6 cube or at least 5.8 cube are usually scrapped and I pay .20 cents a pound. If by chance it has a long bar (over 36 inches) especially a roller nose I will shell out a bit more but under a C note. That bar looks to be in the 24 to 28 inch range on that saw and are quite common in the hard nose variety. Remember that 1/2 inch chain is almost impossible to get and expensive if you do find it so the chain that is on it will probably be the only one it will wear for the rest of its life. I do still pick those up when I find them but mostly for parts for the bigger gear drive saws like the 707 and such so if the price is right I would get it.

 

[ChainLightning]

Non running saws especially ones below 6 cube or at least 5.8 cube are usually scrapped and I pay .20 cents a pound. If by chance it has a long bar (over 36 inches) especially a roller nose I will shell out a bit more but under a C note. That bar looks to be in the 24 to 28 inch range on that saw and are quite common in the hard nose variety. Remember that 1/2 inch chain is almost impossible to get and expensive if you do find it so the chain that is on it will probably be the only one it will wear for the rest of its life. I do still pick those up when I find them but mostly for parts for the bigger gear drive saws like the 707 and such so if the price is right I would get it.

I usually get my saws there too. And people wonder why I usually don't pay over 20 bucks for a saw.

 

[ozflea]

Non running saws especially ones below 6 cube or at least 5.8 cube are usually scrapped and I pay .20 cents a pound. If by chance it has a long bar (over 36 inches) especially a roller nose I will shell out a bit more but under a C note. That bar looks to be in the 24 to 28 inch range on that saw and are quite common in the hard nose variety. Remember that 1/2 inch chain is almost impossible to get and expensive if you do find it so the chain that is on it will probably be the only one it will wear for the rest of its life. I do still pick those up when I find them but mostly for parts for the bigger gear drive saws like the 707 and such so if the price is right I would get it.

Or you can use em for road fill

 

[Junorr500]

Homelite

It's at a pawn shop. Guy is asking $150 for it.