Homelite Chainsaws

[homelitejim]

Worked on the 600D a little today... drained off the old stale gas, replaced the fuel line from the tank to the carb, and poured fresh mix in. Checked the line in the tank for a filter, and it has one, as well as it being very flexible yet, not stiff or reduced to gum in any way. She popped and almost ran a few times. Is there a good place to look first on these older model Homelites?

Probably got to put a kit in the carb. The old homelites are hardy saws, very well built.

 

[promac850]

Probably got to put a kit in the carb. The old homelites are hardy saws, very well built.

I figured as much... thanks!

I will get a kit for it soon and get it barking...

 

[BigDaddyR]

Can anyone help decode the serial on this old Homelite please. Gotta replace fuel line and then see from there. Prob carb rebuild. Wasn't ran for 5 years per guy I bought it from.

Thanks

View attachment 310465

Here's how I got it with no cleaning.

View attachment 310466



Rick

 

[fossil]

Can anyone help decode the serial on this old Homelite please. Gotta replace fuel line and then see from there. Prob carb rebuild. Wasn't ran for 5 years per guy I bought it from.

Thanks

View attachment 310465

Here's how I got it with no cleaning.

View attachment 310466



Rick

This was posted by someone on this thread a while ago.

 

[sawnami]

7 digit VIN's have been hard for me to date. I try to compare their appearance (logo design, color, etc.) to dated sales brochures to try to come close.

 

[BigDaddyR]

This was posted by someone on this thread a while ago.

I did see that but with a 7 digit # and the other two numbers not matching the pattern I couldn't apply the process.


Rick

 

[BigDaddyR]

7 digit VIN's have been hard for me to date. I try to compare their appearance (logo design, color, etc.) to dated sales brochures to try to come close.

Would more pitchas help? I know its old but want to try to find an IPL and service manual. Need to replace fuel line ETC for it. Fuel lines on the Bay seem pretty standard for these for around $10.

Guy said it was his dads and he's had it for 25 years since his dad passed away.

View attachment 310481
View attachment 310482



Rick

 

[Warped5]

Would more pitchas help? I know its old but want to try to find an IPL and service manual. Need to replace fuel line ETC for it. Fuel lines on the Bay seem pretty standard for these for around $10.

Guy said it was his dads and he's had it for 25 years since his dad passed away.

Rick

Good morning, Rick - You can probably find your IPL here: Index of /pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws

 

[BigDaddyR]

Good morning, Rick - You can probably find your IPL here: Index of /pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws

Thanks man. Extensive list. I'll have to go through and match it up.


Rick

 

[promac850]

Well, the XL-98 cut off saw runs, runs great at WFO. Won't idle though, no matter how much I adjust the idle screw or low side screw. It does not have a high side adjustment screw.

Napa even has a belt for it. 1/4" x 33 1/2" To install the belt, you will need a spanner wrench with two pins in it to unthread the driven pulley. Take the 3/4" nylock nut off first... you will also need to remove the blade and blade friction/clamp plates, and clamp the flats of the driven shaft into the bench vise to loosen the driven pulley.

Wrap the belt around the pulley, and be sure you run the loose excess in to the tunnels that are machined into the bar before you tighten the pulley back down with the two pin spanner wrench. You do not have to remove the pulley entirely to install the new belt.

Once that's done, install the whole assembly onto the powerhead like you would do so with a bar and chain on an inboard clutch equipped saw, install the clutch cover and tension the belt, then tighten the bar nuts.

 

[psuiewalsh]

Well, the XL-98 cut off saw runs, runs great at WFO. Won't idle though, no matter how much I adjust the idle screw or low side screw. It does not have a high side adjustment screw.

Napa even has a belt for it. 1/4" x 33 1/2" To install the belt, you will need a spanner wrench with two pins in it to unthread the driven pulley. Take the 3/4" nylock nut off first... you will also need to remove the blade and blade friction/clamp plates, and clamp the flats of the driven shaft into the bench vise to loosen the driven pulley.

Wrap the belt around the pulley, and be sure you run the loose excess in to the tunnels that are machined into the bar before you tighten the pulley back down with the two pin spanner wrench. You do not have to remove the pulley entirely to install the new belt.

Once that's done, install the whole assembly onto the powerhead like you would do so with a bar and chain on an inboard clutch equipped saw, install the clutch cover and tension the belt, then tighten the bar nuts.

Wonder if there is an air leak?

 

[promac850]

Wonder if there is an air leak?

If there was, it wouldn't burble at WFO, right? It was clearly four stroking up there with no load on it. It had some smoke coming out of the exhaust too, from the slightly rich mixture at wide open throttle.

I'll test it tomorrow by running it on each side and seeing if it leans out due to leaking crank seals.

 

[67L36Driver]

If there was, it wouldn't burble at WFO, right? It was clearly four stroking up there with no load on it. It had some smoke coming out of the exhaust too, from the slightly rich mixture at wide open throttle.

I'll test it tomorrow by running it on each side and seeing if it leans out due to leaking crank seals.

Carb. may have a governor. Therefore, it goes rich at no load wide open throttle.

 

[sawbones]

Well, the XL-98 cut off saw runs, runs great at WFO. Won't idle though, no matter how much I adjust the idle screw or low side screw. It does not have a high side adjustment screw.

Napa even has a belt for it. 1/4" x 33 1/2" .

Bet its tough to find OEM cutters for that antique.

 

[promac850]

Carb. may have a governor. Therefore, it goes rich at no load wide open throttle.

I have looked at the carb a few times, found it is a Tilly HS. Does not look like it has a governor linkage anywhere. Choke is a standard operating type, hooked right to the choke knob. Throttle is hooked right to the trigger.

Is there an internal governor on the HS carbs?

Bet its tough to find OEM cutters for that antique.

OEM, yes... aftermarket (Norton, etc.) not so much. How much for that OEM blade? Pm me.

 

[67L36Driver]

I have looked at the carb a few times, found it is a Tilly HS. Does not look like it has a governor linkage anywhere. Choke is a standard operating type, hooked right to the choke knob. Throttle is hooked right to the trigger.

Is there an internal governor on the HS carbs?



OEM, yes... aftermarket (Norton, etc.) not so much. How much for that OEM blade? Pm me.

Could be. Look for a brass plug type thing just forward of the choke shaft on the right side.

 

[Eccentric]

Kyle that XL-98 will have a governed HS as Carl said. The governor valve is the threaded brass plug on the side of the carb. Has a spring loaded ball that vibrates off of its seat at high RPM. Allows more fuel to the main nozzle, richening the saw to cut RPM's.

This can fool a person into thinking that the saw is set rich even when it is set too lean. Many saws have leaned out and burned up under load when this happens. Also, the valve can leak from crap holding the ball off its seat. Many Homelite, Poulan, and Husqvarna chainsaws had these governed HS carbs. Some Homelite saws had HL carbs with these governors too. My 2000A does. Many of us have disabled the governor valve by placing a 1/4" disc of aluminum or copper in the governor valve hole, then tightening the governor valve body against it. Search for threads and posts.

A saw can have leaking crank seals and still be tuned rich enough to burble at WOT. As already stated, the governor will also make it burble at WOT, regardless of the tune. One more thing............leaking crank seals don't always make the saw change idle speed when tilted. It is a telltale symptom, but NOT always there with leaking seals. Don't assume.......

 

[promac850]

Where should I look first on this particular model? Fuel lines and filter? Carb kit?

I do have a carb kit on its way for it.

 

[chainsawlady]

XL98 belts

Well, the XL-98 cut off saw runs, runs great at WFO. Won't idle though, no matter how much I adjust the idle screw or low side screw. It does not have a high side adjustment screw.

Napa even has a belt for it. 1/4" x 33 1/2" To install the belt, you will need a spanner wrench with two pins in it to unthread the driven pulley. Take the 3/4" nylock nut off first... you will also need to remove the blade and blade friction/clamp plates, and clamp the flats of the driven shaft into the bench vise to loosen the driven pulley.

Wrap the belt around the pulley, and be sure you run the loose excess in to the tunnels that are machined into the bar before you tighten the pulley back down with the two pin spanner wrench. You do not have to remove the pulley entirely to install the new belt.

Once that's done, install the whole assembly onto the powerhead like you would do so with a bar and chain on an inboard clutch equipped saw, install the clutch cover and tension the belt, then tighten the bar nuts.

I have two original #64498 Homelite belts for the XL-98 construction saws.
chainsawlady

 

[Eccentric]

Where should I look first on this particular model? Fuel lines and filter? Carb kit?

I do have a carb kit on its way for it.

Just the usual fuel system rehab stuff. Nothing unique about them.