Homelite Chainsaws

[Clarkbug]

Anyone have a good place to try and get a Homelite 360 starter pulley/cup? I have tried to PM chainsawlady, but with all of the hacking and whatnot, I dont know if the PM ever made it through.

Anyone here have one in a box from a parts saw they are looking to get rid of?

Bumping this again. Cant seem to find that dang pulley anywhere.

There has to be a pile of 360's somewhere that got fried from a bad boot...

 

[watsonr]

Some of you have been waiting to see this I believe...


XL-15 gear drive saw in really nice shape thanks to a fellow friend and member. He was waiting for a drive and I was waiting for a saw... made a good trade and here it is. My gear drive is blue but will work just fine.

The bottom of the cover is broken but will allow a better flow of chips

Cover removed looking at a nice .404 chain. Whats unusual is that the saw came with .404 and my drive is .404... that was an option with the drive and came standard as 3/8 sprocket, which I have as well.

Three shoe clutch, early IPLs showed that the 6 shoe was a standard, I won't be adding the other shoes unless it is slipping with the three shoes currently installed. It pulled a 16" bar with a very heavy load on the handle... me.


A NOS Homelite 24" bar is coming to help restore it a little closer to original thanks to Mr. Mark. I'll put a couple pics of it up when it arrives and a video of it running the bar in some nice oak.... buried of course!

Cheers

 

[leecopland]

There are whole recoils on feebay starting at $10.00

Bumping this again. Cant seem to find that dang pulley anywhere.

There has to be a pile of 360's somewhere that got fried from a bad boot...

That's what I had to do just to get the pulley.

Regards,

Lee

 

[Clarkbug]

That's what I had to do just to get the pulley.

Regards,

Lee

Thanks Lee.

I didnt think about the recoil being cheaper than just one of the parts... ill do some searching now.

 

[awol]

I have a bucket of 360 parts under my work bench. There should be a good recoil assembly in it. PM me your address if you would like me to send it.

Alan

Sent from my XT901 using Forum Fiend v1.0.1.

 

[Acornhill]

What rattle can color red will work to touch up super XL?

I have a friends Super XL and want to touch up the handle etc with some rattle can red, what color will match best?

 

[67L36Driver]

I have a friends Super XL and want to touch up the handle etc with some rattle can red, what color will match best?

International Harvester red in the tractor and implement paint is a close match. The Valspar is great and the ACE hardware brand is fine also. They both take a looooooooooooooooooooooog time to dry.

 

[Clarkbug]

I have a bucket of 360 parts under my work bench. There should be a good recoil assembly in it. PM me your address if you would like me to send it.

Alan

Sent from my XT901 using Forum Fiend v1.0.1.

Thats amazingly generous of you Alan. Thank you!

But I took Lee's advice and found a recoil assembly on the 'bay that I had missed before (it was listed as a "pull start", hadnt searched for that before....) So I dont need it (I hope!) at this point. Ill save it for some other member in need.

Your generosity is much appreciated!

 

[awol]

Aw shucks, 'taint nuthin! Seems these old Home lite parts are kinda hard to find a home for. Those Mac parts are a little different though!

Alan

 

[leecopland]

35SL refresh

Hi Folks,

Just finished a refresh on my 35 and I can't get it to idle. It starts but dies after a few seconds or if you pull the trigger. I have the H&L out about 1 turn and have tried a bit less and a bit more to no avail. I'm wondering if I have the metering lever set too low. Have done new lines, filter boot and carb kit.:msp_confused:

Any help welcome!

Regards,

Lee

 

[fossil]

Hi Folks,

Just finished a refresh on my 35 and I can't get it to idle. It starts but dies after a few seconds or if you pull the trigger. I have the H&L out about 1 turn and have tried a bit less and a bit more to no avail. I'm wondering if I have the metering lever set too low. Have done new lines, filter boot and carb kit.:msp_confused:

Any help welcome!

Regards,

Lee

You might have a carb or other issue but try going somewhat richer on the idle side to see what happens. In my limited experience, bogging is often caused by too lean of an idle mixture. I usually start somewhat richer on the high side like 1-1/4 turns and adjust it in wood to get it where it needs to be. Make sure you fuel tank vent is clear and that your not pulling a vacuum there. If you used Tygon you may be able to see if the fuel flow stops or not.
If that doesn't work try your metering lever adjustment and if you still don't have positive results you might want to vacuum test the saw to make sure there's no issue there. If you can't vacuum test at least try a pressure check. I find the pressure check works well with any leaks except for crank seals. Most of the seals I have replaced leaked under vacuum but would hold pressure well.

 

[rocketnorton]

You might have a carb or other issue but try going somewhat richer on the idle side to see what happens. In my limited experience, bogging is often caused by too lean of an idle mixture. I usually start somewhat richer on the high side like 1-1/4 turns and adjust it in wood to get it where it needs to be. Make sure you fuel tank vent is clear and that your not pulling a vacuum there. If you used Tygon you may be able to see if the fuel flow stops or not.
If that doesn't work try your metering lever adjustment and if you still don't have positive results you might want to vacuum test the saw to make sure there's no issue there. If you can't vacuum test at least try a pressure check. I find the pressure check works well with any leaks except for crank seals. Most of the seals I have replaced leaked under vacuum but would hold pressure well.

what he said, cant add anymore help, but can give moral support, imo worth figuring out, after usin mine a few times, its a [keeper] good mid size saw... g'luck...

 

[ozflea]

Got this yesterday arrived with 6 chains and 4 bars at least the bars and chain the chains are new and still in packets they will come in handy on my 650's and 750's



McBob.

 

[Acornhill]

Super XL bar studs

Hello, i am fixing a friends Super Xl and one of the bar studs falls out, it comes out with the sleeve attached to it. The sleeve is stripped in the housing. I have two questions.
1. how hard is it to take the housing off to replace it (i have a spare)
2. Can i aluminum weld the sleeve/stud back in place?

 

[Eccentric]

Hello, i am fixing a friends Super Xl and one of the bar studs falls out, it comes out with the sleeve attached to it. The sleeve is stripped in the housing. I have two questions.
1. how hard is it to take the housing off to replace it (i have a spare)
2. Can i aluminum weld the sleeve/stud back in place?

The drivecase is a magnesium alloy. It's not aluminum. I doubt you could repair that drivecase without more effort than it's worth, unless you can find and install a threaded insert with a larger diameter than the original.

To swap drivecases you'll have to disassemble most of the saw (including removing the piston, cylinder, and conrod as you'll need to remove the crankshaft from the crankcase for this job). The conrod big end bearings are loose rollers. There are 31 of the little bastards that'll try to run off when you remove the conrod from the crankshaft. These saws fit together like a 'chinese puzzle'. Everything is interlocked with everything else. There are also oiler lines that are buried and inaccessible until you remove the fuel tank (which is held to the crankcase by three screws under the flywheel area). The shop manual has you using various special pullers and presses to disassemble and reassemble the crankcase/drivecase and crankshaft. You'll have to improvise, unless you have an uncle that has a stash of Homelite special tools.

Applying some heat (from a heat gun) around the bearing area of the drivecase will expand it enough to let go of the bearing (and again to receive the bearing during reassembly). You'll cook the crankshaft seal, but that doesn't matter much as you should replace the seals while you're this far in there anyways. Install the drivecase side seal AFTER you reassemble the drivecase/crankcase/crankshaft. Read the XL-12/SXL sections of the service manuals and try to wrap your head around how these saws go together. Pay particular attention to the 'later model' instructions. Remember the two bearing retaining screws and washers that are on the inside face of the drivecase (accessible once the drivecase/crankshaft is removed from the crankcase).

You'll need a new case gasket, and might as well replace the cylinder/intake gasket, the carb mounting gasket, and the two intake block gaskets while you have it apart.

Here are links to download the 4th and 5th Ed Service Manuals. Do you have an IPL for these saws? PM your email address to me if you need an IPL.

http://www.mediafire.com/?1dlkv4unh3tu5t1

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og

 

[Clarkbug]

360 Updates

So I got a little time to tinker this afternoon in the garage, and started in on the 360. Recoil showed up from eBay, so I bolted it up and started pulling. Pulled really sorta hard, wasnt expecting that from a saw this size. Turns out that the rope length has been "customized", so it was only about 14" or so. Not fun.

But the saw fired up after a few pulls, then died out. Dump some fuel in the carb, same thing. Figure I might as well get acquainted with the "new" saw, right? I have read the boot goes bad on these saws, so I started there. Go to unbolt the carb...hmmm, one of the two bolts is a flathead screw. This doesnt bode well. The rest of everything came apart pretty easily.

Pulled the carb off, and saw plenty of "goo" that looked like silicone or something along those lines. Sure enough the boot was gone and someone had farmerized it to get it working. Top was completely rotted off, bottom was stiff as a rock. No garter spring on it at all, so I guess I need to try and find one of those. None of the threads with pics here are working, so Ill need to try and figure out what order things go back together in..

Kept looking while I was at it, and pretty much every single rubber line on the saw is shot. Fuel and oil lines in the tank just fell apart. Impulse was pretty bad also.

So, back to getting some other consumable parts to try and get this old girl back up and running. Any tips on what to use for impulse line? I have some automotive vacuum hose, but that doesnt fit through the hole in the little air plate that bolts over the cylinder.

Have to say, I enjoyed pulling this saw apart. Really not too bad to work on at all, I like being able to use a regular wrench for almost everything

 

[Eccentric]

So I got a little time to tinker this afternoon in the garage, and started in on the 360. Recoil showed up from eBay, so I bolted it up and started pulling. Pulled really sorta hard, wasnt expecting that from a saw this size. Turns out that the rope length has been "customized", so it was only about 14" or so. Not fun.

But the saw fired up after a few pulls, then died out. Dump some fuel in the carb, same thing. Figure I might as well get acquainted with the "new" saw, right? I have read the boot goes bad on these saws, so I started there. Go to unbolt the carb...hmmm, one of the two bolts is a flathead screw. This doesnt bode well. The rest of everything came apart pretty easily.

Pulled the carb off, and saw plenty of "goo" that looked like silicone or something along those lines. Sure enough the boot was gone and someone had farmerized it to get it working. Top was completely rotted off, bottom was stiff as a rock. No garter spring on it at all, so I guess I need to try and find one of those. None of the threads with pics here are working, so Ill need to try and figure out what order things go back together in..

Kept looking while I was at it, and pretty much every single rubber line on the saw is shot. Fuel and oil lines in the tank just fell apart. Impulse was pretty bad also.

So, back to getting some other consumable parts to try and get this old girl back up and running. Any tips on what to use for impulse line? I have some automotive vacuum hose, but that doesnt fit through the hole in the little air plate that bolts over the cylinder.

Have to say, I enjoyed pulling this saw apart. Really not too bad to work on at all, I like being able to use a regular wrench for almost everything

Use Echo, Dolmar, or Homelite black fuel line (or impulse line) for the impulse. Don't use the transparent Tygon type vinyl line. It's fine for fuel and oil, but not good for impulse applications.

Read up in the 35/350/360 section of this Service Manual:

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og

Use your UT# here to find your exact IPL:

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws/

 

[leecopland]

So I got a little time to tinker this afternoon in the garage, and started in on the 360. Recoil showed up from eBay, so I bolted it up and started pulling. Pulled really sorta hard, wasnt expecting that from a saw this size. Turns out that the rope length has been "customized", so it was only about 14" or so. Not fun.

But the saw fired up after a few pulls, then died out. Dump some fuel in the carb, same thing. Figure I might as well get acquainted with the "new" saw, right? I have read the boot goes bad on these saws, so I started there. Go to unbolt the carb...hmmm, one of the two bolts is a flathead screw. This doesnt bode well. The rest of everything came apart pretty easily.

Pulled the carb off, and saw plenty of "goo" that looked like silicone or something along those lines. Sure enough the boot was gone and someone had farmerized it to get it working. Top was completely rotted off, bottom was stiff as a rock. No garter spring on it at all, so I guess I need to try and find one of those. None of the threads with pics here are working, so Ill need to try and figure out what order things go back together in..

Kept looking while I was at it, and pretty much every single rubber line on the saw is shot. Fuel and oil lines in the tank just fell apart. Impulse was pretty bad also.

So, back to getting some other consumable parts to try and get this old girl back up and running. Any tips on what to use for impulse line? I have some automotive vacuum hose, but that doesnt fit through the hole in the little air plate that bolts over the cylinder.

Have to say, I enjoyed pulling this saw apart. Really not too bad to work on at all, I like being able to use a regular wrench for almost everything

Hi Clarkbug,

I've just done the same thing with my 35SL. I got everything together from Chainsawr in one package, worked out well. Still haven't got mine running right but that is due to lack of time on my part. Good luck with yours. Good saw by all accounts.

Regards,

Lee

 

[Acornhill]

The drivecase is a magnesium alloy. It's not aluminum. I doubt you could repair that drivecase without more effort than it's worth, unless you can find and install a threaded insert with a larger diameter than the original.

To swap drivecases you'll have to disassemble most of the saw (including removing the piston, cylinder, and conrod as you'll need to remove the crankshaft from the crankcase for this job). The conrod big end bearings are loose rollers. There are 31 of the little bastards that'll try to run off when you remove the conrod from the crankshaft. These saws fit together like a 'chinese puzzle'. Everything is interlocked with everything else. There are also oiler lines that are buried and inaccessible until you remove the fuel tank (which is held to the crankcase by three screws under the flywheel area). The shop manual has you using various special pullers and presses to disassemble and reassemble the crankcase/drivecase and crankshaft. You'll have to improvise, unless you have an uncle that has a stash of Homelite special tools.

Applying some heat (from a heat gun) around the bearing area of the drivecase will expand it enough to let go of the bearing (and again to receive the bearing during reassembly). You'll cook the crankshaft seal, but that doesn't matter much as you should replace the seals while you're this far in there anyways. Install the drivecase side seal AFTER you reassemble the drivecase/crankcase/crankshaft. Read the XL-12/SXL sections of the service manuals and try to wrap your head around how these saws go together. Pay particular attention to the 'later model' instructions. Remember the two bearing retaining screws and washers that are on the inside face of the drivecase (accessible once the drivecase/crankshaft is removed from the crankcase).

You'll need a new case gasket, and might as well replace the cylinder/intake gasket, the carb mounting gasket, and the two intake block gaskets while you have it apart.

Here are links to download the 4th and 5th Ed Service Manuals. Do you have an IPL for these saws? PM your email address to me if you need an IPL.

http://www.mediafire.com/?1dlkv4unh3tu5t1

http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og

thank you

 

[rocketnorton]

Hello, i am fixing a friends Super Xl and one of the bar studs falls out, it comes out with the sleeve attached to it. The sleeve is stripped in the housing. I have two questions.
1. how hard is it to take the housing off to replace it (i have a spare)
2. Can i aluminum weld the sleeve/stud back in place?

is it a 130? maybe able to help w/parts... on now, 3rd time in 2 wk cause of hack...