Homelite Chainsaws

[Efisher26]

As far as I know u bend it just enough to keep the needle seated. But not 100% if u can do that with that kind of lever


-Efisher26-

 

[sweepleader]

The lever is adjusted by bending it and usually it is to be flush with the casting metal on either side when the needle is lightly pressed into its seat. The screw that holds the lever shaft should be snug when checking, it is not an adjustment. If you set the lever above flush, you will get more fuel. If you set it below flush, you will get less.

 

[Ginger15]

So you bend it when the needle is fully seated? Carbs confuse me, sorry

 

[Efisher26]

U want to bend it very slightly so it's farther from the gasket, so it's not pressing on the lever constantly,


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[Ginger15]

Okay, I think its adjusted correctly now.

 

[sweepleader]

So you bend it when the needle is fully seated? Carbs confuse me, sorry

Yes, and no. Bend it any way you want, but check it with the needle fully seated. Do not put a lot of pressure on the needle, it can be damaged.

 

[Ginger15]

Yes, and no. Bend it any way you want, but check it with the needle fully seated. Do not put a lot of pressure on the needle, it can be damaged.

Got it, took it off and bent it by hand and kept rechecking. Will see how it does this weekend when I take it out for some oak work.

 

[Hoggwood]

Got it, took it off and bent it by hand and kept rechecking. Will see how it does this weekend when I take it out for some oak work.

That metering diaphragm is the wrong one if it is a WS series carb. I would be looking at a different kit. You need the metering diaphragm (pintle) that inserts into the fork of the lever. The one that was originally equipped. Walbro PN 95-546-8. This will properly control the seating and unseating of the metering needle. Pressure/vacuum as the tank and/or case heat/cool can cause all manner of vapor lock, flooding etc. if the needle/spring/fuel pump diaphragm are not working correctly.

Top of the lever is to be flush with a straightedge placed across the circuit plate. Make certain the spring is seated under the lever correctly and that it is rotating freely on the pin.

This may help as well.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Got it, took it off and bent it by hand and kept rechecking. Will see how it does this weekend when I take it out for some oak work.

what kind of carb you got? what carb kit did you get?

 

[Ginger15]

what kind of carb you got? what carb kit did you get?

WS-22 I believe? I was told to pick up a k10-ws rebuild kit on here so thats what I picked up. Everything but the diaphragm was the same in the kit.

 

[Ginger15]

That metering diaphragm is the wrong one if it is a WS series carb. I would be looking at a different kit. You need the metering diaphragm (pintle) that inserts into the fork of the lever. The one that was originally equipped. Walbro PN 95-546-8. This will properly control the seating and unseating of the metering needle. Pressure/vacuum as the tank and/or case heat/cool can cause all manner of vapor lock, flooding etc. if the needle/spring/fuel pump diaphragm are not working correctly.

Top of the lever is to be flush with a straightedge placed across the circuit plate. Make certain the spring is seated under the lever correctly and that it is rotating freely on the pin.

This may help as well.

View attachment 528299

Dang, the part cost as much as the whole rebuild kit. Oh well, if I need it I need it. That photo is awesome for troubleshooting, thank you. Lever is flush with a straight edge, and spring moves freely on the pin. Guess I'll be tearing it apart again after the part arrives.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I'm seeing it for $3.32 on ereplacment

 

[Ginger15]

I'm seeing it for $3.32 on ereplacment

Then you add shipping. Comes out as much as a kit. I think shipping is 7.95 from them.

 

[Hoggwood]

Dang, the part cost as much as the whole rebuild kit. Oh well, if I need it I need it. That photo is awesome for troubleshooting, thank you. Lever is flush with a straight edge, and spring moves freely on the pin. Guess I'll be tearing it apart again after the part arrives.

Any chance your supplier will refund/supply the correct diaphragm? Something went wrong when they packaged that from the factory.

 

[Ginger15]

Any chance your supplier will refund/supply the correct diaphragm? Something went wrong when they packaged that from the factory.

all the kits I saw had the same diaphragm. No cut out for the fork. I doubt an online seller would help me out with it anyhow.

 

[Ginger15]

Can you get a replacement 28" bar for the homelite? Or is 24" the largest?

 

[Efisher26]

Anything is possible, can it handle a 28?


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[Ginger15]

Anything is possible, can it handle a 28?


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Thats what shes been running all her life. I just put on a skip chain. But the bar has seen better days. Afterall, it is 30 sum years old.

I just cant find a D196 mount bar longer than 24".

 

[Efisher26]

Baileys must have somthing


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[Ginger15]

Not unless another bar mount besides D196 will work.