Homelite Chainsaws

[svk]

Hi guys.

Does this style of cap have a one way valve that goes bad? Both of my saws weep fuel pretty heavily during use when the tank is full/when not cutting horizontally.

 

[Boomer 87]

Should be a bronze vent on one of the hex flats. I can't tell you for certain but I have a bunch that weep out of that bronze vent idk if it should or shouldn't but it doesn't hurt performance on mine so I don't
Get concerned

 

[svk]

Should be a bronze vent on one of the hex flats. I can't tell you for certain but I have a bunch that weep out of that bronze vent idk if it should or shouldn't but it doesn't hurt performance on mine so I don't
Get concerned

Yes there is a bronze vent. Is there a duckbill or something behind this?

I don't mind if I drip a bit in the woods but I was cutting storm damage trees in my yard and it killed a bunch of grass from the leaking fuel which didn't go over so well.

 

[Boomer 87]

Idk if there is or not I've never tried to take one apart.

 

[fossil]

There is a duck bill valve under the sintered bronze plug. Pry the plug out, clean out the goo from the disintegrated valve and replace. The extra pressure in the tank from the duckbill valve will raise the boiling point of the fuel and help to minimize that issue as well as stop the leak. The oil tank caps have one as well.

The valves are still made (by Stens I think) and the PN is Homelite 69451.

 

[67L36Driver]

The sintered bronze filter pries out. Underneath there was a Homie duckbill.
Use an ice pick. They be hard to remove.

 

[svk]

Thanks fellows. Much appreciated!

 

[Boomer 87]

Ya good info I didn't know that either I've been using the red homey duckbills in all my poulan as that's all my parts store can get they work fine.

 

[svk]

5 pack of duckbills on their way. It's always something lol.

 

[Efisher26]

My dad has a top handle homelite late 80s. The piston seized while sitting in case. Poured some mystery oil in cylinder let it sit, next day I dumped it out, pulled starter a few, put spark plug in and it started up, running good ever since.


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[Boomer 87]

I actually had a C5 that was seized from corrosion. I sprayed penetrant in the exhaust port, few days later broke it loose with a wrench on the flywheel nut. It actually ran after that. couldn't believe it. You just can't beat the durability of old stuff.

 

[Ginger15]

Make sure the metering diaphragm is hooked onto the lever.

The gasket I got with the kit does not have a recess for the diaphragm to hook onto the lever, only allows it to press down on the lever. Hmm

 

[Efisher26]

That's how I've always seen them, The kit I bought last time didn't even have the round metal peice


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[Ginger15]

The old gasket had the recess for attaching. But this one doesnt. The meter does look to be set right. Just slightly above the plate.

 

[Efisher26]

Pic of old?


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[Ginger15]

It was thrown away as it was no good and quite warped. But below is what it looked like. Instead of just sitting on the lever it hooked in.

 

[Efisher26]

Ic, the kit didn't come with new lever? If not I'd try it anyway, as long as the lever is pressed....


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[Ginger15]

It did come with a new lever, everything was installed. But it was the same as the old one with the hook in. Just the diaphragm was different. I have run it this way, but fuel floods into the cylinder if it is left with fuel in the tank. So I'm trying to chase down the issue. Otherwise after I am done I have to empty the fuel tank even if it sits for 10 minutes. It builds up enough pressure and poof, floods on the first crank. Fuel will spurt out of the cap when you twist it off even if it sits for two minutes.

 

[Efisher26]

So that tells me the lever needs adjusting? Have you tried that yet? I've never seen that type but it works on the reg style


-Efisher26-

 

[Ginger15]

And you adjust it by the screw that holds the lever down?

The lever sits just slightly above the plate which is what the manual says it should. So I assume it is adjusted correctly.