Homelite Chainsaws

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I believe a pink (red) duckbill goes there for the tank vent.

Thank you, I have some green husky duckbills arriving this week in the mail and some red homelite ones arriving next week. I'll see which fits better. Both saws run and idle nicely now. Just getting everything fine tuned now.
 
I believe a pink (red) duckbill goes there for the tank vent.

Yes. Also there is a filter that goes over the duckbill. Originally it was a piece of foam the was glued to the recoil housing. Homelite part# 69443. It was there to keep sawdust out of the duckbill. When the original is missing, you can use a piece of a air filter in its place. I just lay it over the duckbill and install recoil housing.
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Thanks, the saw still has the foam, I wondered what it was for! Maybe to keep the tanks from rattling, guess I was wrong. Your saw looks really clean.
 
Do they make a SXL 925 wrap bracket or is it the normal bracket that just gets chopped? I have a wrap bracket but its pretty rough and doesnt match the condition of the saw I want to put it on. The part numbers are the same for both brackets as far as I can tell. I was thinking of ordering a NOS bracket and just chopping the tab off to allow the full wrap to pass through.
 
Ordered a 10" NOS homelite red bar for my XL. Man what a pain to find. Got my XL oiler set back up correctly but I havent tested to see if it oils yet. All the lines are new and the duckbill is set correctly so I dont see why it wouldnt. My SXL925 fuel caps are now functional with new bills in place, reused one brass filter but had to replace one as it was ruined after coming out of the hole. Just waiting on the 28" bar to be out of the shop and it will be ready to rock and roll.
 
Tore down a beater Super Mini last night/today. Must have been running some 16:1 10W30. Ate some carbon and tore up the piston. Cleaned up and reused it. Rings good shape. Points. Bonus. Fat spark. New seals and carb kit. Healthy chipper chain and bar. Seems to eat wood just fine.

Girls earned a trip to DQ today helping with some chores. Noodled up some bigger chunks with the Super Mini. Pretending to make some cuts. Good times.

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We were just moving from another stack to this one. Several cords on the property. 2-3 years ahead. We did burn a lot this winter by our standards. 2 1/2 + in an efficient stove. I am a wood hound. That is a stack of Douglas. Most enjoyable to fall and (usually) process. I split everything by hand except the fruit wood. That pile of fir was really twisted. Sledge and maul. Larch, cherry, apple and apricot waiting to burn as well.

Last July. Compliments of another 2.5 cu in. Prefer bumper spikes around here with bark. Won't see the inside of the stove until 2019 likely.

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So I've had this 1050A for a few years now and am finally getting around to sorting it out to run it. Has spark you could weld with but so much compression with the plug in it that I can only get one revolution out of the damned thing with a brisk pull. Then it wants to eat my wrist, arm, and shoulder. I'm guessing oil in the case from sitting so long? Only reason I suspect that is I went through a similar drill with a Super250. When I finally got it to pop it loosened up a bit and when it started it fogged the whole county until it cleaned out. Been fine since. Wasn't quite as stubborn as this 1050, tho. Any other thoughts on what it may be?

Also has this weird chain that I seem to recall seeing somewhere before..., maybe in pics somewhere. Was going to sharpen it tonight but not sure it wants to be sharpened in the conventional manner. Don't want to ruin it if it needs some kind of special filing or grinding. Pics aren't very clear but there's a bevel at the front of the cutter..., all of em. Initially thought it was damage from the chain getting into something until it became obvious that each cutter was the same.

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And about this bar plate..., Supposed to be an outer I presume since there's no oil slot? What's with the tab?

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TIA as usual for any insight or enlightenment. I'm taking it to a GTG tomorrow in hopes of someone with fresh shoulders (and wayyy stronger than me!) can pull it over and get it fired up.

Pogo, I saw chain like that, that went on a saw with a self sharpener, back in the 70's. Never saw it on a Homelite tho. And yes a 1050 will rip your fingers off if you don't have a good grip. Hell if it pops back and you do have a good grip it will rip your fingers off. I have two Super 1050's that my Dad bought new back in the 70's. One I used for milling with a 36" bar till I broke down and bought an Orange 660 with a decomp valve. So much easier to start, Joe.



 
Turns out what they call an 10" bar is actually an 8" bar. And I already ordered one of those on ebay so now I'll have 2 8" bars. :( I wish people knew not to measure the WHOLE bar.
 
And I got my 1050A running today with the able assistance of a couple guys with fresh wrists and shoulders. Fired right up on a prime and ran on its own after a few more shots got the diaphragms sorta working. A fresh carb kit and this thing will be a strong addition to the 6 cube stable for sure. Still couldn't make any sense of that outer bar plate and think the tab may have been an option for a different application and maybe bent out the wrong side of the plate to boot. Snapped right off when I tried bending it back the other way..., and the plate makes more sense as it is now, too.


You might want to check the timing on that 1050. Someone installed a module on the one I have and yes, ripped forearm muscles several times. I removed the module and went back to points and set the timing correctly and it was much easier to start but you still have to pull with authority. I also installed a wide snowmobile starter handle so I can grip with my whole hand instead of three fingers.
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