Homelite Chainsaws

[PogoInTheWoods]

Hard to say what the market would be. They seem to disappear of e-bay at high prices. There must be a ton of Pioneer / Homelite saws sitting dead out there....

...., I doubt the price would stop many of the collectors.

You're probably right, of course. It just doesn't make much sense to me to buy a known defective component even for a collectible saw. Seems to me like these new ones should almost be given away in exchange for a bad one..., or at least be made available at a reduced price on an exchange basis.

 

[Hoggwood]

I will get a few pics of what I did with the coil. It will be a couple of days or so. Current status of shop is chaos. Family is in spring cleaning/sort mode. I cannot even see my benches.

 

[ML12]

Does anyone have a spare used/old cylinder cover for a model 17 that I could get? Its the same part on the 7-19, Zip, 600D,4-20, 5-20 etc.
looks like this:



any condition is fine, no paint, corroded, cracked etc as long as its mostly there I can fix the rest. Let me know.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

So I've had this 1050A for a few years now and am finally getting around to sorting it out to run it. Has spark you could weld with but so much compression with the plug in it that I can only get one revolution out of the damned thing with a brisk pull. Then it wants to eat my wrist, arm, and shoulder. I'm guessing oil in the case from sitting so long? Only reason I suspect that is I went through a similar drill with a Super250. When I finally got it to pop it loosened up a bit and when it started it fogged the whole county until it cleaned out. Been fine since. Wasn't quite as stubborn as this 1050, tho. Any other thoughts on what it may be?

Also has this weird chain that I seem to recall seeing somewhere before..., maybe in pics somewhere. Was going to sharpen it tonight but not sure it wants to be sharpened in the conventional manner. Don't want to ruin it if it needs some kind of special filing or grinding. Pics aren't very clear but there's a bevel at the front of the cutter..., all of em. Initially thought it was damage from the chain getting into something until it became obvious that each cutter was the same.

And about this bar plate..., Supposed to be an outer I presume since there's no oil slot? What's with the tab?



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TIA as usual for any insight or enlightenment. I'm taking it to a GTG tomorrow in hopes of someone with fresh shoulders (and wayyy stronger than me!) can pull it over and get it fired up.

 

[svk]

So I've had this 1050A for a few years now and am finally getting around to sorting it out to run it. Has spark you could weld with but so much compression with the plug in it that I can only get one revolution out of the damned thing with a brisk pull. Then it wants to eat my wrist, arm, and shoulder. I'm guessing oil in the case from sitting so long? Only reason I suspect that is I went through a similar drill with a Super250. When I finally got it to pop it loosened up a bit and when it started it fogged the whole county until it cleaned out. Been fine since. Wasn't quite as stubborn as this 1050, tho. Any other thoughts on what it may be?

Also has this weird chain that I seem to recall seeing somewhere before..., maybe in pics somewhere. Was going to sharpen it tonight but not sure it wants to be sharpened in the conventional manner. Don't want to ruin it if it needs some kind of special filing or grinding. Pics aren't very clear but there's a bevel at the front of the cutter..., all of em. Initially thought it was damage from the chain getting into something until it became obvious that each cutter was the same.

View attachment 567576

View attachment 567577

And about this bar plate..., Supposed to be an outer I presume since there's no oil slot? What's with the tab?

View attachment 567579

View attachment 567580​

TIA as usual for any insight or enlightenment. I'm taking it to a GTG tomorrow in hopes of someone with fresh shoulders (and wayyy stronger than me!) can pull it over and get it fired up.

You hit some type of abrasive but soft substance to round off the top plate. I had one of those from a bag of chain I bought. You need to grind it back to where the top plate is true again and drop the rakers.

 

[fossil]

Have a good time there. I hope the rain holds off for you.

Some saws hydro lock if the carb is set a bit too rich. A good way to check is to shut the ignition switch off when it bites you and then give it a pull. If it bites with the switch off, too much fuel is getting into the cylinder

Your bar plate has had the ass eaten off it. The tab, not sure.

 

[rocketnorton]

The tab, not sure.

so ya cant put on wrong side? looks like tab be where adjuster is when flipped...

 

[fossil]

This coil seems to be a very good replacement for the Homelite XL-76 saws using the Prestolite blue coil.

The goal of the test (at least for me) was to find an alternate coil that is common and reasonably priced that would mount up using bracket made with simple tools that an average handy chainsaw guy could use with good results.
No advance or retard of the timing was required. The saw must have gained a little advance as the starter grip will bite if you aren't aggressive with the pull.

The alternate coil used is a Farmer TEC coil labelled with their PN 05230034266. If you google that number it will take you to a number of sellers of that coil.
The coil is listed for a replacement for many Huskys including 51, 55, 61, 254, 268, 272. I can get that coil from Amazon.ca delivered for less than $20 CDN.

The saw runs and starts very well.



A few pics of what has to be done.

I started with this



The spacer upper left over the top coil mount on the cylinder and the bracket for the rear mount. I used 1/4" mild steel for both. A couple of small washers = a 1/8" in thickness could be used for the top spacer to simplify things.



The coil adapter spacer and bracket look like this off the saw. The clearance holes for the mounting and coil placement adjusting are 8-32's

The bend in the bracket for the turned down leg is for anti rotation.




A pic of the backside of the Husky aftermarket coil with the spacer and bracket




The finished product. You can see that the plug wire is too long but screws out for shortening as required.



To complete the testing I am going to try the coil on a Pioneer Farmsaw and a Homelite Super XLAO in the near future

If you have any questions, fire away,

Thanks to @hoggwood for the first test using a coil from a Husky 254 and to @Pogo for tracking down the PN's and again to @DSS for the coil.

And yes, the saw needs a good blow out. The dust is from a pile of dead white ash I cut last year.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Bravo!

 

[Hoggwood]

Nice Tim. Good to know the cheapos work. On my original coil, I over ground the radius on the core legs when trying to match the contour of the flywheel. Ended up with too big a gap. It isn't really necessary anyway as the original radius is pretty close. Still runs swell. Even more so, now that I resealed the jug. I rushed my test run initially and sprung a leak. I like your idea of two separate spacers and the one hold down strap. I tried to make a one-piece bracket and I can see the simpler approach is better. Your xl-76 sounds healthy.
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Here is my first run with the original Husky coil. Posted awhile back. Fighting an air leak during the cuts, but the coil proved well.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

And I got my 1050A running today with the able assistance of a couple guys with fresh wrists and shoulders. Fired right up on a prime and ran on its own after a few more shots got the diaphragms sorta working. A fresh carb kit and this thing will be a strong addition to the 6 cube stable for sure. Still couldn't make any sense of that outer bar plate and think the tab may have been an option for a different application and maybe bent out the wrong side of the plate to boot. Snapped right off when I tried bending it back the other way..., and the plate makes more sense as it is now, too.

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[rocketnorton]

interested in how it goes on farmsaw. have baked the blue one in farmlite twice. works for matter of few wk, then dies again...

 

[fossil]

interested in how it goes on farmsaw. have baked the blue one in farmlite twice. works for matter of few wk, then dies again...

I'll get at that one tomorrow if it's not too complicated. I can't see why it wouldn't work. If it goes there it should be good for the P39 and P 42 as well. At least I think the 42 uses a blue coil. I don't have one though.

 

[fossil]

Nice Tim. Good to know the cheapos work. On my original coil, I over ground the radius on the core legs when trying to match the contour of the flywheel. Ended up with too big a gap. It isn't really necessary anyway as the original radius is pretty close. Still runs swell. Even more so, now that I resealed the jug. I rushed my test run initially and sprung a leak. I like your idea of two separate spacers and the one hold down strap. I tried to make a one-piece bracket and I can see the simpler approach is better. Your xl-76 sounds healthy.
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Here is my first run with the original Husky coil. Posted awhile back. Fighting an air leak during the cuts, but the coil proved well.

That 76 does run very well and cuts fast. It is definitely a beater though. Lots of corroded and beat up parts on it. I've been using it for most of my firewood duty.
I got it with a Christmas tree Super XLAO I bought as a parts saw missing some parts.

The radius on the upper leg of the core on the cheapo coil is a good fit for the XL-76.

I started with a one piece adapter but thought it was too time consuming with the tools I have and would be harder for the guys without a bandsaw.

Thanks for getting me going on that. I haven't done much with the saws for a while.

 

[svk]

Great sounding saws guys. And real nice retrofit on that coil!

 

[rocketnorton]

I'll get at that one tomorrow if it's not too complicated. I can't see why it wouldn't work. If it goes there it should be good for the P39 and P 42 as well. At least I think the 42 uses a blue coil. I don't have one though.

never paid it much mind [it runs good] when paintin, but pretty sure p42 don't have blue coil. farmlite is p39ish & does have it, as does farmsaw.

 

[svk]

I love watching Billy Ray but if you really want to get to the good stuff, fast forward to 3:45. "Oh play me some mountain music!"


That saw sounds absolutely awesome in the cut.

 

[Ginger15]

Picked up a sxl 925 yesterday. Pics to follow later after i clean it up. Came with a 30" and 20" bar. Needs a fuel line. Can someone send a pm with the service bulletin about the fuel line? Air filter is new, not much paint loss, high compression, jug and slug look great. Going to swap my wrap handle on it for a better look.

The seller told me 2 guys were trying to get him to ship the saw. One was in iowa and another in Michigan i think? Said he knew a guy in oregon that would overhaul the saw and ship it back. Any of you guys one of them? Haha.

 

[Ginger15]

Can you replace the sprocket on a bar that doesnt have a replaceable nose? Or is there a good way to clean the spricket out from All the dirt and grime?

 

[sawnami]

Can you replace the sprocket on a bar that doesnt have a replaceable nose? Or is there a good way to clean the spricket out from All the dirt and grime?

Yes, you can get tip sprocket kits for many Homelite bars.

Sent from my SM-N910V