Thanks for the explanation.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Hey guys. Does anyone need tanks or exterior plastics for a later model top handle XL? I have one that's missing the engine and I'm going to toss the plastics unless someone wants to cover the ride to your place.
Well, I finally started into my 17L restoration. Looking for the metallic green paint for the starter cover. I did search the Homelite stickies and found nothing. Anyone have any new suggestions? I was going to head to an autoparts store today to see if they can match it.
Here are 2 suggestions that I found posted by others. I’m no paint expert.
1.) 55 Chevy Neptune Green
2.) HOMELITE GREEN metallic used for some components on the older saws such as the ECS-C(electric)(all green), 4-20, Mod.17&17L, 7-19C, 7-29, 8-29, 6-63, early BUZ, early 5-30, XL-500, Super 77, 700D, 707G&D, 770G&D,775G&D,
XL-870 and XL 875 is Martin Senour formula 10804
Read more: http://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/5121/super-xl-xl12-color-discussion?page=2#ixzz51hwg6xZm
Thanks!
Homelite 17L Update
I went to local NAPA store and started looking through sample books. Here's what I found for the green. I left the inside of the flywheel cover original for comparison. For the red, I've always used Massey Ferguson Red from TSC . It is real close to the red on the inner parts of the saw.
I went to local NAPA store and started looking through sample books. Here's what I found for the green. I left the inside of the flywheel cover original for comparison. For the red, I've always used Massey Ferguson Red from TSC . It is real close to the red on the inner parts of the saw.
Attachments
What kind of spray gun do you use for saw parts? I only have an automotive style gun which of course would be overkill for projects like this.
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Preping the girls ready . C 52 not the biggest . But is the best for this job.
Curious, did any of the big cube saws come with the blue coil of death? Or just the mid size ones?
Where did you find new bars to fit the big Homie pattern? Or did you use a Stihl pattern?
Not at the moment but I had been back when I had a couple of C-5's. I am hopeful to acquire a couple of larger project saws in the new year that would be "keepers" and I like my personal saws to have nice bars.
and small. neighbor & me both have blue fired xl-1s. his is actually super mini
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
I bought that 30" hard nose from little red barn for the C-52 its .404/.063 . The same bar does double duty with my Remington pro 88 I converted from 7/16 .058. I'm running .404/.063 skip /micro chisel on both . I bought 32" Husky loops and shortened them. Was a little tighter than I like on the C-52 but after a couple cuts it was fine.
The pro 88 I drilled and slotted the bar for max chain life.
Cut and quartered 6 20"x42" rounds today . Got 1 load home . Beer time!
All the parts for the 17L are painted. I'll wait a few days before assembly so the paint thoroughly cures. Since I don't have a starter cover (yet), I went ahead and painted the starter pulley and screen green. Dang, there sure are a lot of little parts to deal with. I cleaned up the handle starting with 220 sandpaper to even out the nicks and dings, then went to 320, then 400, then scotchbrite, then SOS pad, then Never Dull, cleaned and coated with clear polyurethane. Now, to figure out where all the screws go.
I'm looking for a crankshaft for this saw - 17L . I found one with part # 55008-C but my ipl shows 55008-B. Are these interchangeable? Also looking for a flywheel/rotor. Apparently the nut was loose and the key slot was damaged on both items and the taper is damaged as well. The threads on the small end were damaged too.
sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
Depending on the type of damage... I once fixed a Mac crank that had been chipped out when the clutch got loose. The original had a 1/8" Woodruff key, the crank was broken out on one side of the keyway. I got a 1/4" wide key the same diameter as the original, filed one side down to 1/8" to fit a new clutch and the other side got filed at an angle and curved to fit tightly in the broken crank. There was little damage to the taper, the clutch was destroyed. I tightened the clutch nut as very tight as I dared and it worked great. Never a lick of trouble. It was a lot of hand work but it was very little money and no waiting. I was young then, about 16-17 and had more time than money. Didn't actually take that long, maybe an hour with a file.
I filled in the damaged area with marine grade JB weld. I greased and installed the key so I could get it out after the JB set and I could file the taper to shape. If the threads weren't damaged, I would have gone with it but now I question if I'll be able to put enough torque to seat and lock the taper. So far I have a lot of time but little money in this Homelite so I'm just going to go for the new crank and flywheel.
