Homelite Chainsaws

[struggle]

That is the only way to get the fuel line on the nipple then run the fuel line in thru the hole and screw the fitting back in, be sure to use a sealer on the threads, then bring line out of filling hole and attach filter put tank back on and done.

I wished I had asked earlier in the day about this. I took the tank off and just cut the old line off to where I could use it to see if I can get the saw running and then go from there.I had no idea how easy the tank would be to remove. Thanks for the info on that. I found after cleaning out two pounds of saw dust from under the tank that one of the tank screws was missing so I found a replacement for that and put everything back together.

What do you use to reseal the nipple fitting? I left it alone for now as I know it will be taken apart again for new fuel line. The fuel line to the carb is kind of yellow in color and while it seems OK on fit it is quite hard. Are you talking black 3/16 fuel line? Also what size is it on the filter side. I have some yellow tygon type line here at the house but it is way to small.

Pulled the muffler (if you want to call it that) and the piston looks good as do the walls. The piston has black almost like carbon on the side of it with mild streaking but nothing that is in the way of lean seize stuff. Looks like carbon to me. I ran a metal pick over it and could not feel a thing.

Tomorrow I will fill the tank up and try to start it and see what happens. I will put new fuel lines on it. I could not at this time as I see no trips to town in the next couple of days and being I have the patience of a five year old I want to hear this thing pop.

I have noticed the pull cord you kind have to pull it a couple of times to get it to engage. I have not pulled it off yet. The cord is on the short side as well, but does recoil fine.

 

[Eccentric]

I got this XP 1130G a few months ago needed a few parts.

Wanted to put these dogs on it, Got to have dogs with a geardrive.

The bottom of the mount was broken off.

I made a bracket and welded it to the dogs.Then bolted it on.

Nice work Cliff. I may do that same thing with a certain 1130G I have with a broken dog flange...

I wished I had asked earlier in the day about this. I took the tank off and just cut the old line off to where I could use it to see if I can get the saw running and then go from there.I had no idea how easy the tank would be to remove. Thanks for the info on that. I found after cleaning out two pounds of saw dust from under the tank that one of the tank screws was missing so I found a replacement for that and put everything back together.

What do you use to reseal the nipple fitting? I left it alone for now as I know it will be taken apart again for new fuel line. The fuel line to the carb is kind of yellow in color and while it seems OK on fit it is quite hard. Are you talking black 3/16 fuel line? Also what size is it on the filter side. I have some yellow tygon type line here at the house but it is way to small.

Pulled the muffler (if you want to call it that) and the piston looks good as do the walls. The piston has black almost like carbon on the side of it with mild streaking but nothing that is in the way of lean seize stuff. Looks like carbon to me. I ran a metal pick over it and could not feel a thing.

Tomorrow I will fill the tank up and try to start it and see what happens. I will put new fuel lines on it. I could not at this time as I see no trips to town in the next couple of days and being I have the patience of a five year old I want to hear this thing pop.

I have noticed the pull cord you kind have to pull it a couple of times to get it to engage. I have not pulled it off yet. The cord is on the short side as well, but does recoil fine.

I am indeed talking about black 3/16" automotive fuel line for the section that goes from the fitting to the carb. For the pickup line, I believe it's 3/16" ID Tygon or other thin wall flexible fuel line. The stock stuff is thin and black. I'd replace the carb line if it's hard. That's a likely source for air leaks. If the line's hard it won't seal well on the nipples. I said nipples.....:msp_rolleyes:

Have fun with the starter. Those can be cranky.

 

[RandyMac]

Excellent Mr Bowsaw!!

A much cleaner job than the repair to my 1-80.

 

[struggle]

Thanks Aaron. I just finished the recoil on a little leaf blower that had me about to drive me mad once the spring jumped out. I finally got it though and it work well.

Now I just need the crank seals to show up so I can get that finished:msp_mad:

Recoils can drive a person insane.

The one thing I have noticed is tinkering with these saws a person has to learn a lot of patience since you cannot just go out and get parts for them.

Also anyone have a dawg laying around that would fit this C-51? I looks like it never had one on it? It must have came with one?

 

[RandyMac]

Dogs are an easy find. I know someone that has the semi rare four pointers on a C5.

 

[Eccentric]

I have the 'four pointers' on my XP1020. My C5's have the smaller standard 'five pointers'. May have a spare one of those. I'll have to check in my stash.

They're pretty common. I'm sure many guys here have extras. They go for $5-$10 apiece on feebay too.

 

[struggle]

Aaron if oyu have a spare I can cover shipping or anyone else pipe up and I will pop for one here over Feebay.

 

[Eccentric]

Aaron if oyu have a spare I can cover shipping or anyone else pipe up and I will pop for one here over Feebay.

I'll dig through my spares boxes this weekend Shane. If I have an extra it's yours for shipping.

 

[struggle]

I'll dig through my spares boxes this weekend Shane. If I have an extra it's yours for shipping.

Thanks, no big hurry on it.

 

[briantutt]

Mystery Homie

The farmer at church that gave me the Johnny 590 asked me wed. night "does the Jonsereds guy fix Homelites?" I said "oh yeah". He replies "I will hook you up with one, it's in better shape than the 590 was".

We will see what he brings me!

 

[homelitejim]

I wished I had asked earlier in the day about this. I took the tank off and just cut the old line off to where I could use it to see if I can get the saw running and then go from there.I had no idea how easy the tank would be to remove. Thanks for the info on that. I found after cleaning out two pounds of saw dust from under the tank that one of the tank screws was missing so I found a replacement for that and put everything back together.

What do you use to reseal the nipple fitting? I left it alone for now as I know it will be taken apart again for new fuel line. The fuel line to the carb is kind of yellow in color and while it seems OK on fit it is quite hard. Are you talking black 3/16 fuel line? Also what size is it on the filter side. I have some yellow tygon type line here at the house but it is way to small.

Pulled the muffler (if you want to call it that) and the piston looks good as do the walls. The piston has black almost like carbon on the side of it with mild streaking but nothing that is in the way of lean seize stuff. Looks like carbon to me. I ran a metal pick over it and could not feel a thing.

Tomorrow I will fill the tank up and try to start it and see what happens. I will put new fuel lines on it. I could not at this time as I see no trips to town in the next couple of days and being I have the patience of a five year old I want to hear this thing pop.

I have noticed the pull cord you kind have to pull it a couple of times to get it to engage. I have not pulled it off yet. The cord is on the short side as well, but does recoil fine.

I have used Teflon tape and gas resistant sealer both have worked great for me. I bought a larger diameter yellow fuel line to run from the tank to the carb and still use it as I bought a few feet to replace that section of fuel line on other saws. When you take your starter apart you will notice some felt like washers on ether side of the pawls those may need replaced, Stihl dealer will have them as older stihls used this style of starter.

 

[Eccentric]

I have used Teflon tape and gas resistant sealer both have worked great for me. I bought a larger diameter yellow fuel line to run from the tank to the carb and still use it as I bought a few feet to replace that section of fuel line on other saws. When you take your starter apart you will notice some felt like washers on ether side of the pawls those may need replaced, Stihl dealer will have them as older stihls used this style of starter.

You refering to the FM type starter Jim? I had forgotton that the 070/090 Stihls used that starter. I should check the dealers around here for FM friction washers.

Shane may well not have that starter type however. The C51/71/91 saws (and the XP1000/1100) mostly had the 'overrunning bearing' type starters, as opposed to the Fairbanks/Morse 'pawl and cup' type starters used in the C5/7/9 and other saws. This system used a shaft on flywheel that fitted into a one-way bearing in the starter pully.

The rollers in the bearing were similar to the sprag clutch in an automatic transmission. They grabbed the shaft when the bearing was turned in one dirrection (starting) and freewheeled in the other dirrection. When the bearing gets gummed up, or the rollers and/or shaft get worn..............then it slips in both dirrections...:jester:

IIRC, Homelite actualy went back to the FM starter setup for late production C51/71/91 saws and continued with it in the C52/72 saws. The last of the C72 saws (this model was made into the early '80s.....ten years after the last of the other C-Series saws) had the ratcheting pawl type starter system used in the XL12/SXL, XP1020, XP1130G, 1050, 2000, 2100, and 3100G saws.


I'm sure RandyMac will be along shortly......................with some snide "Homelice" comments. He's always good for a few of those when we're talking Homelite starters...opcorn:

 

[RandyMac]

Homelite, the American Motors of Chainsaws when it comes to starters.

 

[homelitejim]

You refering to the FM type starter Jim? I had forgotton that the 070/090 Stihls used that starter. I should check the dealers around here for FM friction washers.

Shane may well not have that starter type however. The C51/71/91 saws (and the XP1000/1100) mostly had the 'overrunning bearing' type starters, as opposed to the Fairbanks/Morse 'pawl and cup' type starters used in the C5/7/9 and other saws. This system used a shaft on flywheel that fitted into a one-way bearing in the starter pully.

The rollers in the bearing were similar to the sprag clutch in an automatic transmission. They grabbed the shaft when the bearing was turned in one dirrection (starting) and freewheeled in the other dirrection. When the bearing gets gummed up, or the rollers and/or shaft get worn..............then it slips in both dirrections...:jester:

IIRC, Homelite actualy went back to the FM starter setup for late production C51/71/91 saws and continued with it in the C52/72 saws. The last of the C72 saws (this model was made into the early '80s.....ten years after the last of the other C-Series saws) had the ratcheting pawl type starter system used in the XL12/SXL, XP1020, XP1130G, 1050, 2000, 2100, and 3100G saws.


I'm sure RandyMac will be along shortly......................with some snide "Homelice" comments. He's always good for a few of those when we're talking Homelite starters...opcorn:

I got ya, like the starter on my 5-20 and 770D? Just roll your saw on its right side and pull string until starter engages. My 770 is really bad about this must have a stuck bearing ball in there somewhere as I have to roll it on its side quite a bit to get the starter to engage.

 

[RandyMac]

I got ya, like the starter on my 5-20 and 770D? Just roll your saw on its right side and pull string until starter engages.

The brass trinket starter needs regular attention, like every day. Clean and lightly use a very light oil.

 

[Eccentric]

I got ya, like the starter on my 5-20 and 770D? Just roll your saw on its right side and pull string until starter engages. My 770 is really bad about this must have a stuck bearing ball in there somewhere as I have to roll it on its side quite a bit to get the starter to engage.

That's actualy a third type of Homelite starter.......used by Homelite before the FM starters. It's a ratcheting ball type, somewhat similar to what was used for decades in Briggs and Stratton engines.

The brass trinket starter needs regular attention, like every day. Clean and lightly use a very light oil.

I like that one Randy. I've heard a term for the FM's that I can't type here (as it'll be all #'s) and your earlier "magic fingers" term for the overrunning bearing type. Hadn't heard the "brass trinket" one before. Nice!

 

[RandyMac]

The Master Faller Ray called them that. He rarely had a failure.

 

[Eccentric]

The Master Faller Ray called them that. He rarely had a failure.

I can believe it. I'll be sure to maintain the brass trinket on my 900D in his honor...

 

[homelitejim]

I can believe it. I'll be sure to maintain the brass trinket on my 900D in his honor...

I will as well on both "brass trinkets"

 

[briantutt]

The Master Faller Ray called them that. He rarely had a failure.

Being one of the young pups here I will ask. Is "Master Faller" a job title or a term of respect or both?

There is a fellow design engineer at work who is about 68 who I do not hesitate to consult on a weekly basis. He KNOWS what he is doing.