Homelite Chainsaws

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You may be able to pull the boot off the plug wire and remove the spring connector, that would allow you to pass the wire through much more easily.

Mark
I was thinking this very thing, I guess I'll know if this is possible when I get the new module.
I'd say the 240 is comparable to my Super Pro 40, it actually performs pretty well with an 18 inch bar, based on my experimenting with it. Hopefully I'll get it sparking again.
 
the carb nozzles for the SXL 925 came in this afternoon. left is the original one I butchered experimenting with it, was probably nothing wrong with it. middle one is the NOS replacement. neither have check valves. the seller called it a choke valve. the one on the right has a check valve, the seller said it was for models 900 and 920.

Installed the middle one, no change, saw would not idle, was harder to start than before. I removed the governor again, punched out and installed 2 discs from an unused diaphragm, blocked off the hole to the carb throat with them and screwed the governor back in tightly with some lock Tite.

PXL_20240909_193955467.MP.jpgPXL_20240909_194018773.MP.jpgPXL_20240909_194038631.MP.jpg
 
I was thinking this very thing, I guess I'll know if this is possible when I get the new module.
I'd say the 240 is comparable to my Super Pro 40, it actually performs pretty well with an 18 inch bar, based on my experimenting with it. Hopefully I'll get it sparking again.

I use some silicone lube squirted in the boot before attempting to pull it off, sometimes warming them with a heat gun helps as well.

Mark
 
So Frank, blocking off the governor solved the idle issues?

Mark
good morning, Mark. in my case, yes. it was definitely the governor. I've read a bunch of posts on various sites with guys having this problem and it usually involves a saw that ran great for years and then suddenly exhibited the symptoms mine did. my theory is that either wear of the ball or the brass around the ball or spring weakening occurs over time and/or hours of use and changes the resonance required to release the fuel. funny thing is all of the threads were about the SXL 925 but there were a bunch of Homelite models, and some other brands using governors and haven't seen any complaints about those models.
 
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Does anyone have a diagram of a Zama CIS-H4 carburetor with the correct order of the diaphragms and gaskets?

This 240 is as close to being crushed by a 16lb hammer as any saw I've ever owned.

After I rebuilt the carb I ran about a tank of fuel through it and it ran beautifully. Now it's starving for fuel. I think I was fooled into thinking I had an ignition problem all along.

I can choke it until I get about 2 seconds of running and then it dies. I took the carb apart and cleaned it again, no difference.

I'm almost out of ideas unless the fuel filter is plugged, impulse passage isn't lined up correctly, or some other bizarre problem. It just makes no sense that it ran perfectly after the rebuild and now it's just dead to the world....
 
Ok....can someone help?

Why does this diagram show different gaskets / diaphragms for the fuel pump??

I think I found my problem....I replaced the pump gaskets and diaphragms with 3 pieces (that's how it was, I thought it was factory) it looks like I should only have 2.

Should I only use parts 12 and 15?

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