How does this work?

[woodturner]

to all,

When you buy a c/saw from a dealer as opposed to buying online. Usually the saw will cost more from a brick & mortar store dealer, than if purchased online.

1) Does this additional extra cost of the saw include starting the saw, setting the carb, and rpm's, etc, and then re-checking rpm's, etc, after you've had and used the saw for a while?

2) Or, does the warranty on the saw cover this, and the mfg. pays the dealer to perform this maintenance for the customer?

3) Or, is this just something the dealer does to promote a good customer base, and good p.r. relationship with their customers?

Thanks,

 

[tony marks]

if i paid for a top saw and didnt get the saw running the way it is suppose to run.. yes my dealer would do all u said..
about all it depends on is whether u get a good dealer..jmo
ps or whether u are hairy enuff to make him be a good dealer.. as moms mabley use to say. but u got know how.

 

[jokers]

Hi woodturner,

I hope that you accept what I have to say with no ill feelings.

Given the nature of many of your questions it SEEMS apparent that you have limited experience with a saw and that you aren`t capable at this time of ensuring that it is set up right. Under these circumstances I strongly suggest that you do your research on local dealers and buy from the best that you can find. It might not be a bad idea to subtly negotiate with them using internet prices to level the playing field, but don`t expect them to match prices unless you happen to live near CCD whose internet prices match store pricing. Then you have the safety net of a servicing dealer to set you up and help you learn.

To answer your questions:

1)Yes, it`s supposed to but some dealers suck.

2)Warranty is supposed to be honored assuming that you were registered properly, but you will be put behind the dealers customers needs. There is also some lattitude in some warranty claims and you aren`t likely to benefit if you bought on-line and then expect the local dealer to go to bat for you.

3) Yes, a good dealer will make adjustments free of charge because carb tuning after the sale is not a warranty item and it shouldn`t take more than 5 minutes for him to generate some positive PR.

Russ

 

[NevadaWalrus]

I totally agree with Jokers response. Would like to add a little regarding the check over after the sale. Bring it back the first time 6 months later with dozens of hours on it, filter plugged or stale fuel, well,,,,,,, your saw is now in need of servicing not just a quick check and if needed adjust.

Unless you have some sort of after the sale servicing contract with the dealer, a no charge, check and adjust needs to be done after just a few uses and within a month or so.

 

[woodturner]

All

Thanks for your replies!

No offense taken, jokers. I'm just trying to get some "schoolin" knowledge on these saws. I know I've seen in some posts, that some on this board are unnecessarily, pretty blunt, and harsh sometimes, to folks that are not as knowledgeable as themselves. But, I'll wager that the "knowledgeable" ones were not all that knowledgeable when they first began using chainsaws, or any equipment for that matter. A point can be gotten across without trying to make someone feel"dumb". And, rest assured, this isn't directed toward you, jokers. But, never the less, if someone does make some belittling remarks to me, I'll not respond, I'll just ignore them, and not dignify them with a response. I'll just take the helpful replies and use them.

Correct, experience is limited. That's why I'm trying to learn from ya'll. I've never bought a new saw, so I didn't know if when you buy your saw from a local dealer if it is his responsibility to ensure if all is working properly, without additional charge.


There's only 1 c/saw dealer in our small town, stihl. Since they're higher in price, I want a husky. Other dealers in our vicinity are 35 to 50 miles away, includes husky and stihl.

I was trying to determine if the initial adjustments on a new saw are included, or if you have to pay extra for the service. If I bought from an local outdoor equipment dealer, for a higher price than I can buy online, and if I still have to pay extra to ensure that the saw is in proper adjustment, when I first buy it and carry it home, well, I may as well buy it online, and then take it to the nearest dealer I can find and pay him to do what it requires to have it running correctly.

And, Tony, yes, I am hairy enuff.

And, that's what I mean, after running a few tanks of fuel through the saw, & carry it back to have it checked to ensure that the carb, rpm's, etc. is correct. That's all I'm trying to determine. Thanks,

 

[buckduck]

Oh, turning one:
.
Good advice from Jkrs. If I might be so bold to add…. We will assume this saw purchase is an important one for you in the sense that you want a quality tool you can count on… if you’re like me (former cabinet maker) I take pride in the quality of my tools. That having been said, I think you should seriously consider purchasing from a reputable local dealer. The experience and benefits will be worth it (and should be worth paying a bit more for.) All the dealers in my area that I’ve dealt with (since 1969) have been great and VERY helpful. The last time I was in buying parts I overheard the proprietor insist that the fellow who just bought a saw bring it back after he had used it for a period of time so he could check it to make sure all was correct. I happen to be running Stihl, partially due to those positive experiences and also due to 35 years and a dozen saws with only a fuel line to replace outside of normal wear of parts. But I know that Husky’s are good saws as well as others mentioned on this site. All the dealers in my area take care of those who purchase from them. I have a wonderful Husky dealer near me now and one of these days I might get around to buying a 372 from him.

I do often suggest to friends to purchase the ‘cheaper’ brands at local stores as they are impossible to beat in price for the use they’ll get. (they don’t really care about tools and would only use a chain saw after their wife makes them get up and climb a ladder to whack that durn limb that she has to duck every day, then it goes back in the garage until next year when he needs to cut off a fence post or loan it to a neighbor) .

Your Delta Unisaw costs a lot more than a Black and Decker contractor saw. But is there any question as to it’s worth? The difference is, instead of having to hunt down that chain saw you bought a while back, you’ll know right where it is because you show it to everyone that comes over!

Get one of the better models geared for your intended use at a dealer. You’ll not regret it.

Of course, the better alternative to that (if your need is for small to medium trees, cutting fallen limbs and firewood) is to get a new STIHL “260G”! http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12619&perpage=15&pagenumber=2
(when I grow up, that’s what I want) But you wouldn’t keep a ‘260G’ in the shop. It would stay in the house with you.

 

[buckduck]

Woodturner:
.
I just noticed your 'Husqvarna C/S' post and all the great advice you received there. Confused yet? Looks like you're on the right track. In cutting bowl blocks you'll be making cuts along the grain as well as across it. If you are under powered (as far as bar length) while cutting with the grain, it'll be a chore. Everyone goes for bar length (myself included) but it's always best to be over-powered for a bar rather than 'under.' Really, there's only two benefits to long bars, bucking large diameter and it gives you a better reach limbing (which I don't go for, I'd rather have less weight than less reach).

But I digress.... if you go with longer bars, you really need a corresponding increase in power. There's nothing like tearing through a block 'length-wise' spitting out those long, long shavings using a saw with an appetite!!
Have fun!