How I baby my 2 stoke motors.... 30-1 instead of 50-1

[bwalker]

You have no idea what you are talking about. The quality of the oil is what counts and not the amount. There have been studies done which completely discredits your theory.

Well if that's the case why don't we run cars with 1 quart sumps? While quality is important, quantity is as well too.
As far as I am concerned amsoil is a snake oil company at heart and they pray on ignorant people.

 

[gyp69]

Well if that's the case why don't we run cars with 1 quart sumps? While quality is important, quantity is as well too.
As far as I am concerned amsoil is a snake oil company at heart and the pray on ignorant people.

What oil do you use? I’m just curious not trying to argue in the least. Thanks

 

[bwalker]

What oil do you use? I’m just curious not trying to argue in the least. Thanks

I'm burning up my remaining stock of bike oils as i sold all my bikes last year. Honda HP2 and Yam 2R. When that's used up I will probably just use Whatever FD oil is available close to my house. Husky or Echo.

 

[bwalker]

Yeah “test” done by the “manufacturer” of the oil don’t think I’d trust it ever especially not in my vintage saws maybe one of them bicycle engine kits that the cylinders are like $15 for.

Amsoil is basicly a packaging company. They don't refine a single drop of oil and by everything from third parties.

 

[gyp69]

Every time I do a deep dive into mix oils I come away more confused than enlightened. Base stocks, additives, synthetic, semisynthetic, ester based etc. In reality besides having a base of ester or synthetic otherwise so called top tier oils are probably all similar in their quality. From a layman’s standpoint when I mix Motul or amsoil I put the ratio I want in a ratio container and pour it in the gas jug & have to pour gas back into the ratio container several times to get all the oil. Very thick but finally mixes well. Does this provide better lubricity for the piston, jug bearings it would seem so as opposed to Stihl ultra or husky which seems very thin when pouring into gas. Is this right? I don’t know. Back when I cut six days a week for Columbia Helicopters I ran ported huskys (385 390’s) hard then switched back to Stihl (660) I ran husky oil in huskys I ran Stihl oil in the 660’s. Never had a failure back then with those mix oils & I haven’t had a failure with the Motul or amsoil etc. it’s only when I got an iPad about 2013 did I even think about mix oils. Back then the guys I worked with all stayed in campgrounds & in the evening we all would grind chain and talk about the strip we were cutting or huntin , fishing, football women etc. we all ran hopped up saws and I don’t remember ever talking about mix oils. I’m dazed and confused about what is best! Sorry for rambling.

 

[bwalker]

Every time I do a deep dive into mix oils I come away more confused than enlightened. Base stocks, additives, synthetic, semisynthetic, ester based etc. In reality besides having a base of ester or synthetic otherwise so called top tier oils are probably all similar in their quality. From a layman’s standpoint when I mix Motul or amsoil I put the ratio I want in a ratio container and pour it in the gas jug & have to pour gas back into the ratio container several times to get all the oil. Very thick but finally mixes well. Does this provide better lubricity for the piston, jug bearings it would seem so as opposed to Stihl ultra or husky which seems very thin when pouring into gas. Is this right? I don’t know. Back when I cut six days a week for Columbia Helicopters I ran ported huskys (385 390’s) hard then switched back to Stihl (660) I ran husky oil in huskys I ran Stihl oil in the 660’s. Never had a failure back then with those mix oils & I haven’t had a failure with the Motul or amsoil etc. it’s only when I got an iPad about 2013 did I even think about mix oils. Back then the guys I worked with all stayed in campgrounds & in the evening we all would grind chain and talk about the strip we were cutting or huntin , fishing, football women etc. we all ran hopped up saws and I don’t remember ever talking about mix oils. I’m dazed and confused about what is best! Sorry for rambling.

It was found that PIB added to mix oils provided for the same or better film strength while improving cleanliness over thick ester based oils. Oils with PIB are blended with a medium weight base oil and some diluent to help with mixing in cold temps. Most all FD certified oils are formulated this way.
Oddly enough I recently learned that Para-Tac used in bar oil is a thick PIB.

 

[camel2019]

After I bought my first 2 stroke equipment being a weed eater string trimmer and a grey market Chinese chainsaw(not a clone) I mixed my first can of fuel at 40 to 1 but the can I mixed it in had used motor oil in it at one point and it wasn’t cleaned out. to ad to the mix I’d also pour my bar oil through a funnel then pour my gas through the same funnel emptying the bar oil back into the jug and the gas back into the can. Idk what that mix actually was but I ran it and I just pulled the muffler on that Chinese chainsaw yesterday and guess what it’s fine inside.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Every time I do a deep dive into mix oils I come away more confused than enlightened. Base stocks, additives, synthetic, semisynthetic, ester based etc. In reality besides having a base of ester or synthetic otherwise so called top tier oils are probably all similar in their quality. From a layman’s standpoint when I mix Motul or amsoil I put the ratio I want in a ratio container and pour it in the gas jug & have to pour gas back into the ratio container several times to get all the oil. Very thick but finally mixes well. Does this provide better lubricity for the piston, jug bearings it would seem so as opposed to Stihl ultra or husky which seems very thin when pouring into gas. Is this right? I don’t know. Back when I cut six days a week for Columbia Helicopters I ran ported huskys (385 390’s) hard then switched back to Stihl (660) I ran husky oil in huskys I ran Stihl oil in the 660’s. Never had a failure back then with those mix oils & I haven’t had a failure with the Motul or amsoil etc. it’s only when I got an iPad about 2013 did I even think about mix oils. Back then the guys I worked with all stayed in campgrounds & in the evening we all would grind chain and talk about the strip we were cutting or huntin , fishing, football women etc. we all ran hopped up saws and I don’t remember ever talking about mix oils. I’m dazed and confused about what is best! Sorry for rambling.

You have made clear many of the issues that face those that run a chain saw more than a occasional once a month use. The only oil related issue that I have ever faced in sixty years have been with race motors. In many cases a race motor will deliver ten times the output of a chainsaw. Scouring of the piston and cylinder is quite common. Usually not severe but none the less it does happen. With popular chain saw mixes the extreme conditions will NEVER happen even on a very hot or cold day. Some oils burn with the gasoline some do not burn much so is this good or bad. With most things there are pros and cons. Oils that burn well can leave more carbon than others if the mixture is extreme. Oils that do not burn well can leave excess deposit too causing other problems. Most oils will deliver a premium performance for decades as long as extreme conditions do not occur. For many the ONLY method to determine the tuning set up is to read the plug to insure that extreme conditions are not occurring. I have heard over and over about the destruction of a saw motor blaming every thing on oil and alcohol laced gasoline. When conditions change the OP needs to double check their set up or when some thing of interest is noticed. For most they just continue on until their motor stops. Thanks

 

[jakethesnake]

I run 32:1. 30:1 is dam close.

it isn’t gonna hurt a dam thing. Y’all crazy sometimes. Run what you want tune accordingly


that said if I have a very good oil I might hop up to 40-1. Might even try red armor at 50-1.
Standard 2 stroke oil that I can pick up at ace hardware.
32:1. I’m not going to change doing things the way I like I think a tick of extra oil is better

and some of you guys are still crazy. Lol

 

[gyp69]

haha, I could give you a long list of crazy things I have done. But as far as mix oil people are sure opinionated, I seldom think about it until I stumble upon one of these threads. I can’t resist giving my 2 cents which is about what my opinion is worth. That being said a little more oil certainly won’t hurt a thing but if you mix an ester base oil like motul800 at 32-1 you most likely will get your piston washed and a very oily muffler can even if your tune is spot on. In my opinion which like I said is worth about 2 pennies. I might add I’m talking working class limited coil saws like the Stihl 461. Not hotsaws or race saws.

 

[Abbeville TSI]

Okay, now I am no pro logger but for some background I have used chainsaws since the XL12 was blue and repaired and serviced pro saws from Pioneers to Huskies to Stihls.
I own a number of 2 stroke powered equipment, and use the same can of fuel mix for all of them. None are modified beyond a mild muffler mod or cat removal. No ports, no gasket deletes, no timing advance. My use for the saws is TSI and downed tree conversion to firewood on my property. I have Echo and Stihl equipment. I am 73 years old, and not in a hurry, so I don't push myself or my tools hard.
Now for my question, "Do I need more than Echo Red Armor mixing oil at 2% (50-1) to protect my equipment".

 

[gyp69]

Red Armor at 50-1 will be just fine for you Sir. My hats off to you for still running outdoor power equipment on your place,you are the same age as my dad and he like you still mows etc.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I run 32:1. 30:1 is dam close.

it isn’t gonna hurt a dam thing. Y’all crazy sometimes. Run what you want tune accordingly


that said if I have a very good oil I might hop up to 40-1. Might even try red armor at 50-1.
Standard 2 stroke oil that I can pick up at ace hardware.
32:1. I’m not going to change doing things the way I like I think a tick of extra oil is better

and some of you guys are still crazy. Lol

I take great offence at this crazy notion that some are crazy. No sane person would have a multitude of saws and enjoy every single one. Or the guy who has two saws but wants seven more. What about climbing a tree to get it down safely then offered two hundred bucks for his effort. Thanks

 

[jakethesnake]

Okay, now I am no pro logger but for some background I have used chainsaws since the XL12 was blue and repaired and serviced pro saws from Pioneers to Huskies to Stihls.
I own a number of 2 stroke powered equipment, and use the same can of fuel mix for all of them. None are modified beyond a mild muffler mod or cat removal. No ports, no gasket deletes, no timing advance. My use for the saws is TSI and downed tree conversion to firewood on my property. I have Echo and Stihl equipment. I am 73 years old, and not in a hurry, so I don't push myself or my tools hard.
Now for my question, "Do I need more than Echo Red Armor mixing oil at 2% (50-1) to protect my equipment".

Keep at it sir. Red armor is one of the best oils out there. It’s one of the few I’d run at 50:1. I’m switching to it once I burn through the rest of what I’ve bought

 

[bwalker]

Keep at it sir. Red armor is one of the best oils out there. It’s one of the few I’d run at 50:1. I’m switching to it once I burn through the rest of what I’ve bought

Red Armour has some weird ability to leave alot of residual oil at 50:1. I wouldn't worry at all about using it at that ratio.

 

[jakethesnake]

Red Armour has some weird ability to leave alot of residual oil at 50:1. I wouldn't worry at all about using it at that ratio.

I’ve gotta agree with you on that one

 

[Abbeville TSI]

Thanks, guys

 

[camel2019]

Want to start a argument on here just start an oil thread

 

[ihookem]

Now after 7 pages of arguing about oil , what is the best oil and what is the best ratio?. So far, Stihl sucks, Amsoil sucks, cheap oil sucks, and now Res Armour has a weird ability to leave a lot of residue. There is a lot of oil brands out there. Seems hardly any make their own. I'm just going to stick with Stihl 50/1and Amsoil 64 /1 , 2 oz. per gallon just to keep it simple. I have used the cheapest stuff I could find in my outboards at 50/1. i ran Merc @ 100/1 , for quite some time. I ran Amsoil Sabre in my weekwacker and chainsaws, Amsoil @50/1 ,64/1 and 100/1 and 128/1. I have ran Amsoil HD diesel 5w30 for 46,000 miles and 39,000 miles with oil tests and filter changes @15,000 mi. Te truck has 293,000 and runs perfect. I have ran cars for 10,000 mi. on regular oil for years and I have never had oil ruin an engine. Now days I just run Shell Rotella T-6 and change about every 15,000. I think we way over think our oil, way more than women pick their clothes . So, what really is the "BEST" 2 stroke oil? All seems plenty good enough to me.

 

[bwalker]

Red Armour leaves alotnof residual oil, not residue.
And Yes Stihl oil is pure garbage.