How long can you keep the throttle wide open without load?

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I'm pretty much stuck with tuning by tach, as I can't hear very much, and I'm not willing to lose more hearing by running my saw with my hearing aides on. Unless one of you guys wants tp come to southern oregon and help me?
Nothing wrong with using a tach if that’s what you have to hand. It’s actually a good way to get you close and safe. The issue arises when you:

1). have an engine that doesn’t have rpm specs. Typically cheaper equipment or old equipment, that’s when sound and feel are handy.

2). When the ignition coil lead has some means to suppress emf and you can’t get a good reading
 
2). When the ignition coil lead has some means to suppress emf
How is this done?

In reference to the revvy Poulan. Yes, I've been vague. IIRC that experiment was done around 2011 when my main tools were a P38 can opener and whatever was inside the can I'd just opened. :laugh: It was truly trial and error, like hiring Borat to port a saw.
Since then I've acquired most of a machine shop, and associated skills. Old work, when I find it hiding around here, gets binned.
I can't hear very much, and I'm not willing to lose more hearing by running my saw with my hearing aides on. Unless one of you guys wants tp come to southern oregon and help me?
Must be some good anti vibe on your saws!
You know... telephones exist.
I don't understand the mentality here. Gonna leave it at that.
 
How is this done?

In reference to the revvy Poulan. Yes, I've been vague. IIRC that experiment was done around 2011 when my main tools were a P38 can opener and whatever was inside the can I'd just opened. :laugh: It was truly trial and error, like hiring Borat to port a saw.
Since then I've acquired most of a machine shop, and associated skills. Old work, when I find it hiding around here, gets binned.

Must be some good anti vibe on your saws!
You know... telephones exist.
I don't understand the mentality here. Gonna leave it at that.
Either external woven metal wrapping that is grounded to the body or moulded into the rubber insulation of the ht lead.
 
My only comment is:

Go out and start your buggy and firewall it in neutral (so long as it don't have a rev limiter) and see how long it lasts...

Same applies to chainsaws or any internal combustion engine last time I checked.

I never free rev any of my saws with no load on them. To do that is insane in my book
 
Yeah I'd like to know how tach tuning to factory specs is any good when they say elevation and weather temperature different loads dull or sharp chain all effect tune.
I've never used a tach for tuning I don't get it surely a saw won't tune the same for every scenario some guy's say they are tuning all day for different temp swings for example.
Tuning to factory specs with a tach is sloppy tuning if you ask me maybe someone who does will chime in and let us know tuning like that is perfect no matter the conditions. And surely a ported saw will tune different to a epa choked up stock saw?
Idk I reckon throw the tach and factory specs seems lazy and not a very efficient way to tune a saw like they say Mtronic or Autotune is tuning constantly while the saw is running yet some say tune to basic factory specs no matter what is the only way to tune like I said I don't get it lol

I just broke in a new bit of o p e gear (Stihl) it needed more fuel after the rings seated I had to cut the limiters to achieve this there wasn't enough adjustment from the factory the idiots lol
How do you figure setting with a tach doesn't account for elevation, temp, etc?
Sure it doesn't account for load of chain sharpness, but they factory specs are usually very conservative.
What I do with a new saw is break it in, then I make some cuts on average size wood. I tweak the carb until it cuts the fastest. I then record the rpm. Going forward I set with a tach to that RPM.
That was in the past. I'm over that crap and just run a Mtronic saw now.
Using the 4 stroking method in most cases results in a overly rich saw, which drives me nuts. In some saws it's nearly impossible to hear the motor 4 stroke. It's just a less precise method IMO, but I am very OCD about tuning as I raced sleds and bikes for years.
 
I suspect 90% of users never tune a saw, ever. Even guys who make a living with them.
You think city employees, county employees, landscapers, even guys who work for the power company or Asplundh tune saws.

Every one will be hard against the limiter and that's it.

Don't forget you are on a chainsaw enthusiast forum.
 
I suspect 90% of users never tune a saw, ever. Even guys who make a living with them.
You think city employees, county employees, landscapers, even guys who work for the power company or Asplundh tune saws.

Every one will be hard against the limiter and that's it.

Don't forget you are on a chainsaw enthusiast forum.
I don't doubt that. Most of there saws run like crap too.
However, most timber fallers do tune their saws, because it matters.
 
I never free rev
What is this?
I've revved a free saw, but never free revved a saw.

I don't doubt that. Most of their saws run like crap too.
Yeah! Sometimes I hear a tree service down the street and wonder how their saws last a week.
3 blocks away. I can tell one guy is lean, another rich, someone elses' saw idles endlessly while he hides anywhere.
:laugh:
You know what it does? It gives me confidence. That extra pinch of leanless... it'll hold!

You always hear about "When it cleans up in the cut" but WHAT cut?
Tuning a freshly ported chy660, I decided that "the cut" meant as soon as it touches wood.
Which wood? Well. When I started, it would go back to 4 stroking in 10" wood.
Then I leaned it out, until it would clean up in 6" wood.
Then I went for 3" wood. 4 stroke, and clean up in 3" wood.
Then I put the 28 on and buried it for a couple days.

Hey! Did I just make someone think harder about tuning by ear?
I tell you, WHICH cut it cleans up in is EXACTLY what Mr. Snelling means by "4-stroking method is usually rich."
 
What is this?
I've revved a free saw, but never free revved a saw.


Yeah! Sometimes I hear a tree service down the street and wonder how their saws last a week.
3 blocks away. I can tell one guy is lean, another rich, someone elses' saw idles endlessly while he hides anywhere.
:laugh:
You know what it does? It gives me confidence. That extra pinch of leanless... it'll hold!

You always hear about "When it cleans up in the cut" but WHAT cut?
Tuning a freshly ported chy660, I decided that "the cut" meant as soon as it touches wood.
Which wood? Well. When I started, it would go back to 4 stroking in 10" wood.
Then I leaned it out, until it would clean up in 6" wood.
Then I went for 3" wood. 4 stroke, and clean up in 3" wood.
Then I put the 28 on and buried it for a couple days.

Hey! Did I just make someone think harder about tuning by ear?
I tell you, WHICH cut it cleans up in is EXACTLY what Mr. Snelling means by "4-stroking method is usually rich."
You have to consider what "4 stroking" actually is. It's the air to fuel ratio so rich the saw is miss firing. It is no stretch to figure out aetting the carb such that its miss firing and then stops misfiring in the cut results in an overly rich saw.
Only in the chainsaw world do guys set their motors up this way.
Then you have the guys that set with a tach where they set the saw 1-2000 rpm below the factory spec, which is conservative in the first place.
The fact remains the average guy can't tune a carb to save their lives.
 
In regards to reving the saw with no load. I'd bet money I could run a saw wide open no load for an entire tank of gas with no issue. There is no load on the motor and as a result it's running rich and cool.
Why do guys think this would hurt anything?
 
In regards to reving the saw with no load. I'd bet money I could run a saw wide open no load for an entire tank of gas with no issue. There is no load on the motor and as a result it's running rich and cool.
Why do guys think this would hurt anything?

Well, circlips get spit out, that kind of thing. Not a heat issue I don't believe.
 
How do you figure setting with a tach doesn't account for elevation, temp, etc?
Sure it doesn't account for load of chain sharpness, but they factory specs are usually very conservative.
What I do with a new saw is break it in, then I make some cuts on average size wood. I tweak the carb until it cuts the fastest. I then record the rpm. Going forward I set with a tach to that RPM.
That was in the past. I'm over that crap and just run a Mtronic saw now.
Using the 4 stroking method in most cases results in a overly rich saw, which drives me nuts. In some saws it's nearly impossible to hear the motor 4 stroke. It's just a less precise method IMO, but I am very OCD about tuning as I raced sleds and bikes for years.
Like I said I've never used or even own a tach so IDK.
You seem to use a tach to get close and fine tune from there that's not tuning to factory specs.
I was talking about guys that use a tach and tune to factory specs and even then seems the trend is to go 500 rpm or more below 'factory specs' for 'safety' what kind of stupid tuning is that? 😆
Yes true I don't understand how tach tuning to factory specs could be perfect for any elevation? Surely tuning to factory specs at sea level would equate to a terrible tune for say five thousand feet above sea level? same goes for ambient temperature...
Even busted *** industrial 2T chainsaws will take to fine tuning just like any internal combustion engine based on external environmental conditions I guess that’s why even you only use a tach to get in the ballpark and fine tune from there.
 
If installed properly they shouldn't. The piston speeds on these short stroke saw motors aren't that fast.
Not so much that. But, most of the aftermarket clips have a metal tab on one or both sides and the metal fatigue will break them off. Regularly. Old 041's and that vintage came with them. But, the RPM's were quite a bit slower. Stihl took the tabs off, probably for that reason.
In the event I use an aftermarket piston with tabs I take a pair of side cutters and cut them off.
 
If you have your own little pet saws and you want to try to keep them tuned perfectly that is fine. But, many of us repair saws. The RPM increases quite a bit as the saw comes up to operating temperature on top of changes between your fuel and who ever plus temperature and altitude.

I would have to be a bigger moron than I am to send a saw out cold tuned to the max.
 
If you have your own little pet saws and you want to try to keep them tuned perfectly that is fine. But, many of us repair saws. The RPM increases quite a bit as the saw comes up to operating temperature on top of changes between your fuel and who ever plus temperature and altitude.

I would have to be a bigger moron than I am to send a saw out cold tuned to the max.
Yes we know you "techs" send saws and most o p e out bludging fat to cover ya ***. Nobody is saying you are in the wrong so chill willy don't take it as a personal attack we all know you are dealing with braindead clueless consumers... Anyone with half a brain isn't taking their chainsaw to a tech for a "service and tune up" 😆
 
I did some work in a Stihl dealer as a small engine mechanic. I quit in short order because it was such braindead mind numbing work cleaning spark arresters all day and putting weed eater cord on weed eaters because the owners didn't know how 😆
What an eye opener it was.. Would get in a saw (no run) for example and I'd workout what was wrong with it and I'd tell the boss I can fix it will take like 20min he'd say NO don’t bother throw it in a box (still in bits) and we will tell em it can't be fixed and sell em a new one.
And what's this "service" crap on new o p e? Would get in new gear like a tank or two of fuel through them and in for a "service" I'd say to the boss what am I ment to do with this it's new? He said just blow em off with air that's the service! 😆
oh yeah and I'd piss rev and tune a saw on the concrete floor and call it good as dealers don't have anything remotely resembling anything like wood to do a test cut on ha...
 
I did some work... as a small engine mechanic. I quit in short order because it was such braindead mind numbing 😆
Excuse my snipping. This sort of video shows what the average person is capable of.
and fwiw, I could "get close" by watching the exhaust, completely deafened and 20ft away from the saw

spend an honest 5 mins here, to get a FEEL for the common man or as it were, the engine oil life displayed as a % was incorrectly read by my wife as 10% oil remaining. Watch me go outside, pull the dipstick, and have an argument... yes it says 10% but LOOK at the stick!

TL;DR my new radio is defective
 

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Excuse my snipping. This sort of video shows what the average person is capable of.
Some old-timers also labor under old misconceptions. My brother, who's pushing 70, will change his car's spark plugs and wires probably 20 times more often than he will change the oil and filter. I try to tell him, "D00d, you don't need to change plugs and wires every six months, but it might help if you changed the oil more than once every 100,000 miles."

The ONLY time I ever saw him change his engine oil, it was the consistency of COLD ASPHALT or ROOF CEMENT and he had to poke a hooked coat hanger up into the drain hole to get that sh!t to come out. Then he left it in a drain-oil pan in my Mom's yard until the rain overflowed it all over the lawn, killing all the grass for the next 10,000 years... some people shouldn't be allowed to own tools.:angry:
 
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