how would i go about felling a 100 foot eucalyptus with a 41cc saw with a 16 bar?

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:agree2:With the others.
DON'T DO IT For a little bit more than the price of renting a saw big enough for the job ,you could probably find a pro climber that can fell the tree ,PROPERLY and SAFELY.

I don't know what the economics are with tree work is there,but 10% should be enough to pay for the felling if it is just a one cut, wam bam thank you mam drop.
Of course if there is more to it than that then it would be more money.

Example:
If you are getting a grand for this big tree,you will make out fine giving the feller a 100 dollar bill.
If you can't make out doing it this way.....WALK AWAY.
I have done this for many a lawn jockey,and everybody walked away happy.
 
:agree2:With the others.
DON'T DO IT For a little bit more than the price of renting a saw big enough for the job ,you could probably find a pro climber that can fell the tree ,PROPERLY and SAFELY.

I don't know what the economics are with tree work is there,but 10% should be enough to pay for the felling if it is just a one cut, wam bam thank you mam drop.
Of course if there is more to it than that then it would be more money.

Example:
If you are getting a grand for this big tree,you will make out fine giving the feller a 100 dollar bill.
If you can't make out doing it this way.....WALK AWAY.
I have done this for many a lawn jockey,and everybody walked away happy.

Kinda what happened to me, I hired a pair of brothers to help do a Job They were experienced, but had no equipment or insurance, I did. next thing I know I was in the tree business, and I was one more step out of the lawn Jockey stage of my landscape business. I learned a lot from those guys over the next 4 years.

I don't do tree service nor mow grass now days, Im just a crazy artist with a big saw and a love for unusual wood.
I cut that big Cherry by myself, but not before I studied the tree and made proper preparation.

I intend on continuing to be among the living crazy artist for quite some time.
 
Whack it down, if you cant, sell the saws.


Too many of you are over sawed and under maned, the dangerous stupid type lacking in the common sense department...
 
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Whack it down, if you cant, sell the saws.


Too many of you are over sawed and under maned, the dangerous stupid type lacking in the common sense department...
Maybe you should go cut it for him, Slick? You've got that big saw and no job so it's not like you don't have time to strut your stuff.
 
Personally, I have never seen a tree with a 100' base

and I would not want to go through those 1000 or so tanks of gas to try and cut it down with a 16" bar. You need a bigger saw man.:dizzy:
 
Don't let these guys talk you out of cutting that big tree with a little saw.

It sounds like you have the confidence and the know how to do it....so go for it.

There are several good books on tree felling and they are great for guys who want to skip the experience and go right for the big stuff....read one and look at the illustrations and then go for it.

I would also like to help you give a price for the tree as well. Can you give us pictures of the set up and layout?
 
A good feller could knock out 48" DBH trees with a 16" bar....bigger if the middle is good and rotted out.
 
Bull####.....I know guys that cut 40"-60" trees with 20" bars all day long.

Why pack a 40" bar all over the woods?

Now I am sure you can find a few exceptions to every rule....but how many guys doing residential tree care are falling hollow trees next to houses?

I was being sarcastic to begin with but since you went down that road....even if the tree were hollow.....why would it be a problem to cut it with a smaller bar....It would not scare me....especially if the drop zone was wide open.....not that I am that great...but if you know what you are doing it should not be a problem....but yes accidents do happen.

If you have to be told how to do it....then you need to get a little more experience.

Many loggers cut out the heart so there is no holding wood through the center.....the same concept of cutting a hollow tree. Seems pretty basic of a procedure for there to be much debate.

Remember, I did not say "an idiot can do this"....I said a good feller....which means someone who will look the whole situation over and come up with a good felling plan that weighs all risks, looks at all aspects of the tree and landing zone and weighs out the "what ifs" before he does anything.
 
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Used a small saw for years, pushing it too, thinking why do I need a big saw this one is just fine. You are correct most still push the bar length limits, but with experience and knowledge. With more knowledge and experience I have to say I appreciate the right tool for the job.

The saw HP and cutting ability may put the operator in harms way, barber-chair for example. Cutting one side of the trunk at a time keeps the operator in the danger zone longer, dead tree dead wood and dead branches.
 
In all of this discussion, no-one has mentioned the almost total unreliability of holding strength of hingewood in a dead tree.

You could get all the cuts set up just perfectly, wedges and all... and when it starts to go, the hingewood can break or shatter way before the face cuts meet, and the whole thing can go pear-shaped in a split second, twisting, splitting, going the wrong way...the horrifying posibilities are numerous!
 
In all of this discussion, no-one has mentioned the almost total unreliability of holding strength of hingewood in a dead tree.

You could get all the cuts set up just perfectly, wedges and all... and when it starts to go, the hingewood can break or shatter way before the face cuts meet, and the whole thing can go pear-shaped in a split second, twisting, splitting, going the wrong way...the horrifying posibilities are numerous!

The obvious is always understated

Jeez and were suppose to be professionals. :monkey:
 
In all of this discussion, no-one has mentioned the almost total unreliability of holding strength of hingewood in a dead tree.

You could get all the cuts set up just perfectly, wedges and all... and when it starts to go, the hingewood can break or shatter way before the face cuts meet, and the whole thing can go pear-shaped in a split second, twisting, splitting, going the wrong way...the horrifying posibilities are numerous!

Ya, no, a half competent timber faller will pick up on any forces that will affect the tree in any particular manner, thus compensating for said things with a trick out of his big bag of solutions.
 
Bull####.....I know guys that cut 40"-60" trees with 20" bars all day long.

Why pack a 40" bar all over the woods?

Now I am sure you can find a few exceptions to every rule....but how many guys doing residential tree care are falling hollow trees next to houses?

I was being sarcastic to begin with but since you went down that road....even if the tree were hollow.....why would it be a problem to cut it with a smaller bar....It would not scare me....especially if the drop zone was wide open.....not that I am that great...but if you know what you are doing it should not be a problem....but yes accidents do happen.

If you have to be told how to do it....then you need to get a little more experience.

Many loggers cut out the heart so there is no holding wood through the center.....the same concept of cutting a hollow tree. Seems pretty basic of a procedure for there to be much debate.

Remember, I did not say "an idiot can do this"....I said a good feller....which means someone who will look the whole situation over and come up with a good felling plan that weighs all risks, looks at all aspects of the tree and landing zone and weighs out the "what ifs" before he does anything.

Cutting 40-60" trees "All day long" with a 20" bar is dumb.

I could just laugh at the site of grown ass men stooped over a 20" bar, working those big sticks up! :dizzy:
 

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