Husky 372

[sawbot]

Just got a 372 w/24".
Looking for the pro tricks about setup, and break in.
Things the manual dont tell you.
Also talked to husky and they said the saw will run 500 rpm under full
till the saw is broke in. (6-10 tanks)
How hard is it to reset to get the 500rpm back?

Also will offer a pair of used husky 61's i have seen in a pawn shop.
They both are 33" bar and run. Besides that not sure. But the price is really right make offer in sales forum

 

[SawTroll]

Husky 61 with 33" bar is hard to believe, and two!!!!!!

Really bad mismatch between saws and bars! :alien:

 

[sawbot]

Husky 61 with 33" bar is hard to believe, and two!!!!!!

Really bad mismatch between saws and bars! :alien:

want to tell me why this is a miss match? Im a newb with saws.
Maybe the pawn shop has the wrong bar size. Please explain why its a bad match? And also explain what the 61 is and what it is worth used in fair condition thxs

 

[SawTroll]

Husky 61

The 61 is an old design (about 1977) with a 61.5 cc engine rated at less than 4 hp (different versions, 3.6 to 3.9). It is still offered as a current model in parts of the world though, and is reputed to be a good and reliable firewood saw.
It simply has far too little power to pull the chain around a 33" bar and trough the wood fast enough to cut decently.

Husky recommends 24" or shorter bar, and imo even 24" is a bit long.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Try the search feature on this site. (Maybe it's not working, as recently alot of guys seem to not use it.) Do a search for "372" for starters. Then look at "muffler mod." No offense, but you sound to be a bit new to saws, so reading up on muffler mods should be enough to get you started, and that will net you plenty of additional power to an already powerful saw.

As far as the 500 rpm, did they mean that they set it low for the break in period, or did they mean to imply that the saw will run 500 below it's proper rpm until it's broken in, at which time it will gain 500 rpm? Picking up rpms is just a matter of a carb adjustment. (Do a search for that as well- "carb adjustment")

Welcome to the site.

Jeff

 

[sawbot]

Try the search feature on this site. (Maybe it's not working, as recently alot of guys seem to not use it.) Do a search for "372" for starters. Then look at "muffler mod." No offense, but you sound to be a bit new to saws, so reading up on muffler mods should be enough to get you started, and that will net you plenty of additional power to an already powerful saw.

As far as the 500 rpm, did they mean that they set it low for the break in period, or did they mean to imply that the saw will run 500 below it's proper rpm until it's broken in, at which time it will gain 500 rpm? Picking up rpms is just a matter of a carb adjustment. (Do a search for that as well- "carb adjustment")

Welcome to the site.


Jeff

Thxs yes im a newb hehe, Only experiance i have is 3 weeks with the US FS.
Learned very basic feling ect.
Yes, they said that it would require a carb Mod after 6-8 tanks of gas to unleash the 500rpm.s
Will a carb mod in 'anyway' take way from the reliability of this saw?
Thxs for your suggestions

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Carb mod? They probably meant carb adjustment. Carb adjustments are imperative for proper operation of the saw, and every saw owner should familiarize themself enough to be able to make the proper adjustments when need be, which could be week to week, day to day, or even multiple times in a day. The saw will be all the better having been run with a properly adjusted carb. Get your saw broken in and get familiar with it, and then worry about the muffler mod.

Having only the three weeks experience, maybe you should do a search on here here "PPE," "chainsaw safety," and "kickback." Your brain, it's common sense and knowledge are your best pieces of safety equipment.

Jeff

 

[sawbot]

Carb mod? They probably meant carb adjustment. Carb adjustments are imperative for proper operation of the saw, and every saw owner should familiarize themself enough to be able to make the proper adjustments when need be, which could be week to week, day to day, or even multiple times in a day. The saw will be all the better having been run with a properly adjusted carb. Get your saw broken in and get familiar with it, and then worry about the muffler mod.

Having only the three weeks experience, maybe you should do a search on here here "PPE," "chainsaw safety," and "kickback." Your brain, it's common sense and knowledge are your best pieces of safety equipment.

Jeff

Again thxs for the suggestions, by reading your reply, can i assume you think that i learned nothing at all about PPE, kickback, widow makers, pressure points, ect, when i was in training w/the US FOREST SERVICE?
BTW dont forget the #1 hazard in giving suggestions, over head Ob's

But your right, and you helped me with something. Im going to be in a area that has no shops for tuning and parts. think Katrina....Clean up crews.
So im going to have to be able to do my own tune-up's. Could you suggest a place to buy a Tach? Thats not to expensive? And also maybe if you would name a few extra parts i should order to take with me that might on a NEW saw need to be replaced? Thxs again

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

by reading your reply, can i assume you think that i learned nothing at all about PPE, kickback, widow makers, pressure points, ect, when i was in training w/the US FOREST SERVICE? BTW dont forget the #1 hazard in giving suggestions, over head Ob's

I don't think that at all, and didn't mean to sound condescending. I hope I didn't. :angel: But three weeks of training isn't enough to make someone an experienced user. In fact, I'd take three weeks of experience in the woods, under someone's expert tutalege over three weeks of a classroom setting. I'm not doubting or belittling you or your experience at all. I'm just saying that perhaps some refresher reading on this site about who uses chaps and who doesn't and why, who recommends low kickback chain and who doesn't and why, and who's sliced themselves open and who hasn't and why. I've got a bit more than three weeks experience, but I still read the threads on safety, felling technique, and things of this nature. I figure I can always learn from what others have to say, and add that to my tool bag. I surely didn't mean to ruffle feathers. Just trying to help.

What's an over head Ob?

Could you suggest a place to buy a Tach? Thats not to expensive? And also maybe if you would name a few extra parts i should order to take with me that might on a NEW saw need to be replaced?

Most small engine shops, either brick and mortar, or online should be able to set you up with a tach. Madsen's, and I think Bailey's has them as well.

As far as extra parts, extra bar nuts, a starter rope, air filter, spare chain, file, and per haps a couple extra of whatever kind of fastener is most common on the saw.

Jeff