Husky 395xp clutch getting tired

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capejwc

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My older Husky 395xp clutch is about due to replace. Can tell it is getting a little tired when handling big wood even with a new chain. I am running a 36 inch bar for the bigger trees I cut on tornado and hurricane cleanup trips with Samaritans Purse and other groups. Wondering if I need to spend the extra bucks to get an OEM Husky clutch and drum or if the less pricey ones will do the job? I use the saw for personal use, so not like I am logging or doing big work daily or weekly. I haven't checked to see if I could rebuild the clutch with new springs yet either. Clutch assembly brand recommendations and where to buy would also be appreciated.
 
Strange that I did not get a response on my question. I have a neighbor who has a large logging/tree service company. I sometimes work on his saws and trust his advice. He said that aftermarket clutches and other parts have come a long way over the last few years. He recommended aftermarket parts for the things I want to replace. Saved over $100 instead of buying OEM.
 
Strange that I did not get a response on my question. I have a neighbor who has a large logging/tree service company. I sometimes work on his saws and trust his advice. He said that aftermarket clutches and other parts have come a long way over the last few years. He recommended aftermarket parts for the things I want to replace. Saved over $100 instead of buying OEM.
This is probably a better question for the chainsaw forum. Most of the pros here just go oem as the cost of doing business, and easy availability from the dealer.
 
This is a 2006 saw and I did not remove the clutch to check tolerances yet. One of my neighbors is a commercial logger and large tree service owner. He recommended aftermarket and said the quality has improved a lot over the last several years. My order of new clutch, drum and needle bearing should arrive in a day or two. Will let you know how it goes after I get a chance to install and test. Thanks for the advice and how do I move this thread to the chainsaw forum?
 
This is a 2006 saw and I did not remove the clutch to check tolerances yet. One of my neighbors is a commercial logger and large tree service owner. He recommended aftermarket and said the quality has improved a lot over the last several years. My order of new clutch, drum and needle bearing should arrive in a day or two. Will let you know how it goes after I get a chance to install and test. Thanks for the advice and how do I move this thread to the chainsaw forum?
Just repost there
 
For the clutch on a 395, that age, if go oem. When it comes to parts such as those that see a lot of friction in heat, in a strong saw, I feel like metallurgy is important. Are you the original owner? I like accounts of saws and the life they’ve lived. My 395 is fairly new at just over 2 years.
 
Not the original owner and do not know the history or if this is the original clutch. I bought it and a 455 Rancher, fixed both up and sold the 455 Rancher. When I first posted this thread, I had not heard back from my neighbor with the logging company. Followed his advice and ordered some aftermarket parts. If they do not last, I will go ahead with the OEM stuff. The aftermarket parts should arrive in a day or so.
I am a firm believer in using good parts, but also know that OEM and aftermarket stuff is sometimes made in the same place and just have different tags. This old saw runs strong, but I have not checked the compression to see how strong. Thanks for the advice!!
 
Not the original owner and do not know the history or if this is the original clutch. I bought it and a 455 Rancher, fixed both up and sold the 455 Rancher. When I first posted this thread, I had not heard back from my neighbor with the logging company. Followed his advice and ordered some aftermarket parts. If they do not last, I will go ahead with the OEM stuff. The aftermarket parts should arrive in a day or so.
I am a firm believer in using good parts, but also know that OEM and aftermarket stuff is sometimes made in the same place and just have different tags. This old saw runs strong, but I have not checked the compression to see how strong. Thanks for the advice!!
Maybe you’ll have good luck with them, and I hope you do. The 395’s have a pretty good clutch system. For all the tough work I do with mine, with long bars, I rarely stall the saw against the clutch like a lot of my other saws do. It just likes to keep the chain spinning.
 
I got the new aftermarket clutch assembly and needle bearing installed. A little bit of a pain, but up and running. The old clutch was worn pretty bad, so even new springs would not have worked.

I put the saw in some wood and everything seems to be working well while sawing. When I put on the chain brake, it will stall the engine unless I have it revved up a little. Guessing the clutch is a little tight and will wear in with use, but want to hear from you guys if that is a problem area.
May do some cutting to wear in the clutch, but so far, so good. Thanks for the advice!!
 
I got the new aftermarket clutch assembly and needle bearing installed. A little bit of a pain, but up and running. The old clutch was worn pretty bad, so even new springs would not have worked.

I put the saw in some wood and everything seems to be working well while sawing. When I put on the chain brake, it will stall the engine unless I have it revved up a little. Guessing the clutch is a little tight and will wear in with use, but want to hear from you guys if that is a problem area.
May do some cutting to wear in the clutch, but so far, so good. Thanks for the advice!!
Never had any clutch issues like you speak of. Clutches don’t wear very quickly either. Known many top ends go in commercial use before clutches are anywhere near worn out.
 
Took some pictures of the old clutch. Cleaned them up a little to see better. About 1mm surface or slightly more on the clutch surface so pretty worn.
 

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Fair question, but I do not know the answer. I use the chain brake when working with groups since they are very safety conscious. I agree with judicious use of the chain brake, but do not rev the engine with the brake on other than to test it under low rpms at times. This saw is pulling a 36 inch bar and chain. Wondering if the clutch was slipping under load when it got weaker?

Since I have to buy and fix my own saws, I treat them with care. Abusing a saw is not needed and just costs you in the long term.
 
I know it’s irrelevant, but I never engage the chain brake.
If you work with charitable groups like Samaritans Purse, they are very careful about safety since there are people of all skill sets from --never touched a chainsaw to very experienced. Chain brakes are applied if you have to take more than one step to the next cut. Not a big deal, but good training for inexperienced people. You get used to using the chain brake and it becomes a good habit and good example to people learning.
 
If you work with charitable groups like Samaritans Purse, they are very careful about safety since there are people of all skill sets from --never touched a chainsaw to very experienced. Chain brakes are applied if you have to take more than one step to the next cut. Not a big deal, but good training for inexperienced people. You get used to using the chain brake and it becomes a good habit and good example to people learning.
Nothing wrong with being safe.
 
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