husky cuts 2-3" sideways, then binds

[ohgood]

What are you cutting? Same piece of wood or different?

I'm not sure what type of tree it was. I think someone said it was a gum if some kind. it fell about a year ago and I just got around to clearing it this week.

you guys probably know the type of tree by the bark, I don't have a clue

From the appearance of this cutter you're hitting something....

crap. that chain has maybe 5 minutes of run on it. over gotta get my phone camera on it so I can see them.

I'm guessing that's what had damaged the last 3 chains I've had in it

 

[ohgood]

crap I just got

Sounds like a technique problem to me. You can make a saw cut crooked if you twist it in the cut.

the first 8-10 cuts dropped through without issue. I don't put pressure on the saw, always just let the cutters do their job. I've been very careful not to put pressure into machinery I'm using.

the electric saw I bought last week dropped through this tree until it's battery was depleted, no issue.

long ago I was a machinist, I believe in not straining machinery.

 

[ohgood]

You mention the pitch matching. What about the gauge?

pleading ignorant, I don't know what the gauge is ?

 

[ohgood]

whatever your cutting its more than clean wood. sounds like you need to learn to sharpen properly. as soon as that razor sharp edge has gone you will be leaning on the saw, what you described will happen and your putting undue strain on the motor. next stage is a scored piston or worse. when you can sharpen properly you will also learn to avoid cutting dirt

the cuts are elevated, no dirt was contacted. I have not sharpening any of these (now 3) new chains, have not modified the bars (all new).

as far as my sharpening skill, it's decent for regular homeowner stuff at best, with a lot of setup and attention to detail. any pro sharpener or pro sawman would easily find errors in my sharpening easily, no doubt. but take note, these were new, untouched.

 

[ohgood]

Probably lack of oil if nothing else, is it sparking and chain stretching a lot?

Most likely if one side is sharpened slightly different to the other but then you say it's new, unless it got blunted on whatever wood you're cutting because of high mineral content.

The plates and bar where it is clamped should be clean, the oiling hole cleared out and the channel needs to be cleaned out, sometimes it can seem clean but a little stone can stay lodged and mess everything up.

Basically once it starts to curve at all in the cut it is tempting to carry on but you're better off taking it out and making it cut right, starting a new cut if necessary. Seems time consuming but often it saves more time to start off again, having a spare bar and a few spare chains becomes the best solution.

whenever I change stuff, i usually check the oiling by running the saw at higher RPM , and it coated the end of a log pretty quickly.

blunting- that makes sense, but the cheap electric saw I bought last week dropped through without issue.

trash in the (channel?) if the bar makes sense. I didn't look at it very closely, but did change the bar/ chain and have similar results again.

I stopped as soon as the cut turned, pulled out, looked and wondered then tried again in a new spot. same result. I was very confused by the results repeating in different places, with new hardware.

note,,, the battery saw I bought dropped through it several times without issue, until the battery was dead. no turning. this makes me thing there's done kind of issue with the husky saw, but I don't know enough about saws to know what that could be.

 

[user 172763]

Grease in the front sprocket. Check the end of the bar near the saw and give us the info there. Or just tell us what bar you bought. Also, what model Husky do you own? Have you tried the battery saw in the same place your Husky won't cut?

 

[Husky Man]

pleading ignorant, I don't know what the gauge is ?

Gauge is the inside width of the bar groove.

What you are experiencing could be caused by running a narrower gauge chain in the bar, such as an .050 gauge chain in an .058 gauge bar, the sloppy fit will cause the chain to lean in the bar groove and cause what you are seeing. Not necessarily the problem you are having, but could definitely cause your problem


Doug

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Gauge is the inside width of the bar groove.

What you are experiencing could be caused by running a narrower gauge chain in the bar, such as an .050 gauge chain in an .058 gauge bar, the sloppy fit will cause the chain to lean in the bar groove and cause what you are seeing. Not necessarily the problem you are having, but could definitely cause your problem


Doug

This is the most likely, imo.
Need pics of the bar stamp as well as the numbers stamped on the drive links.

 

[arathol]

Post some pictures of the chain, close-ups of the teeth in particular, from the side and above.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Post some pictures of the chain, close-ups of the teeth in particular, from the side and above.

Pics of cutters on BOTH sides of the chain.

 

[ohgood]

Grease in the front sprocket. Check the end of the bar near the saw and give us the info there. Or just tell us what bar you bought. Also, what model Husky do you own? Have you tried the battery saw in the same place your Husky won't cut?

yes the bar / sprocket was greased.

I believe the gauge was .050"

Gauge is the inside width of the bar groove.

What you are experiencing could be caused by running a narrower gauge chain in the bar, such as an .050 gauge chain in an .058 gauge bar, the sloppy fit will cause the chain to lean in the bar groove and cause what you are seeing. Not necessarily the problem you are having, but could definitely cause your problem


Doug

ahhh, ok that makes sense. I verified the bars / chains were the same when I bought them. I knew what the 72 and 325 meant, but not the gauge when I was buying them so I just matched up what I could at the time.

72dl
325 pitch
.050" gauge

 

[user 172763]

72dl
325 pitch
.050" gauge

That's what the bar says? Is it an Oregon bar or what? Pictures would really help these guys figure out what's going on. Plus, what model Husky saw you have?

 

[ohgood]

for whatever reason, i can't upload pictures via mobile anymore.

 

[arathol]

Some of those cutters aren't looking so good.....definitely hit something somewhere. That would do it.

 

[ohgood]

Some of those cutters aren't looking so good.....definitely hit something somewhere. That would do it.

they all are sharp. both sides. this is 3 bars, 3 chains. the cheap harbor freight electric saw dropped through it, no issue ?

 

[scottr]

they all are sharp. both sides. this is 3 bars, 3 chains. the cheap harbor freight electric saw dropped through it, no issue ?

Something about your drive sprocket looks different .
It looks like the outer part of the sprocket has been machined away ?
Another question would be have you checked the depth of the chain rakers ?

 

[Husky Man]

for whatever reason, i can't upload pictures via mobile anymore. View attachment 949306View attachment 949307View attachment 949308View attachment 949309View attachment 949310View attachment 949310View attachment 949311View attachment 949312View attachment 949313View attachment 949314

Well looking at the Bar Stamp, you have an .050 gauge bar, and I don’t recall any.325 pitch chain in a narrower gauge, so that isn’t the likely problem

I’m stumped without seeing it myself, the 445 Husky is a better saw than I expected it to be IMO. My Wife wanted her OWN chainsaw, so that’s what she got for Christmas in 2017. I felt the 445 was a good balance of Price, Power and Weight for the kind of cutting that I expected for her to be doing.
Her 445 doesn’t have a lot of hours on it, but I got a great deal on it from Extreme Powersports in Okanogan, WA $305 NIB w/18” B&C, out the door Tax Exempt for Oregon Buyers. $24 more for 3 cans of premix fuel to double the warranty, and still $10 under MSRP at the time. It has impressed me for what it is. For just over $300, it has performed very well, and been very Reliable.

Just curious, is that the earlier 45.7cc version, or the later 50.2cc model?

I Hope that you get it figured out, that saw should give you many years of good service.


Doug

 

[ohgood]

Something about your drive sprocket looks different .
It looks like the outer part of the sprocket has been machined away ?
Another question would be have you checked the depth of the chain rakers ?

I looked online for husky 445 drive sprockets, they look similar


I have not checked the depth of the rakers. Ill go down and see what the feller gauges show.
note, these were new chains.

 

[Husky Man]

I looked online for husky 445 drive sprockets, they look similarView attachment 949377


I have not checked the depth of the rakers. Ill go down and see what the feller gauges show.
note, these were new chains.

That is a standard spur sprocket, which is what the 445 comes with stock. I prefer a rim drive, but didn’t change out the one on my wife’s saw, if/when the spur sprocket wears out probably, but no reason to before then

If the chains are new, it shouldn’t be raker height.

without going back, did you try a new bar?
A worn bar groove can get sloppy like a narrow gauge drive link in a wider gauge bar, how much use/wear is on your bar?


Doug

 

[user 172763]

Something about your drive sprocket looks different .
It looks like the outer part of the sprocket has been machined away ?
Another question would be have you checked the depth of the chain rakers ?

It's riding on the outside edge of the sprocket you can see it curling over and the drive marks on the teeth. Also, where it first makes contact with the bar it looks like it's tilted outward. There's a little damage to the bar right there if you zoom in.