husqvarna 254 SE

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I have 3 new recoil springs here. If you can't find one send me an address. Are you missing yours or is it broke? If it is broke on the outside just make a new bend to hook it, but backward from stock. If you copy the stock bend it will break again.

Thanks, SC, I sent a PM
John
 
Thanks for the reply BD, yes I used a ring compressor and made no other mods to the saw except the muff and the plastic intake boot.
I'll take you up on getting me the parts when you get home and a chance to dig around for me. The cheapo ring is ok. USPS will ship, no problem. Let me know what you need and I'll PP you if that works on your end.
Thanks,
Gypo

Looks like you may have found a spring already. From the looks of that cylinder in the other thread, I'd say you're going to need more than a ring to make a runner out of this one. I'll send you the ring on Monday if you are still needing it then. PM me your shiping info.

Who knows what happened with that ring. Maybe the cylinder was twisted slightly when you slid it down over the piston, and you caught a ring end then? Sometimes these things just happen. Hopefully someone here has a spare 254 jug for you.
 
Looks like you may have found a spring already. From the looks of that cylinder in the other thread, I'd say you're going to need more than a ring to make a runner out of this one. I'll send you the ring on Monday if you are still needing it then. PM me your shiping info.

Who knows what happened with that ring. Maybe the cylinder was twisted slightly when you slid it down over the piston, and you caught a ring end then? Sometimes these things just happen. Hopefully someone here has a spare 254 jug for you.
Thanks BD, I think I located a good used jug thanks to a fellow member.
Will Pm you the addy.
Thanks again,
John
 
254's were tight stock. No pulling base gasket on them. If you do they will not turn over ( you could remove gasket on a 154 ). The last one that I played with hit with a 11 thou gasket when warm. May still have a used starter side here.

Damn it, I wished I had reread your post before I put the 254 on the 154 casing now I'm aching to take it apart again!
I found a zama diagram that will fit the 254 carb that had no limiter, but I needed a pair of scissors to make it fit.
John
 
I just purchased a 254xp 3 weeks ago. It was in great shape, just had to be cleaned up. Mine says 254xp on the air filter cover, on the recoil and the metal tag. The only thing I don't like is the swing out choke lever, but not a big deal. Lots of good info on AS about this saw.

I did the search on this site and modded the muffler which is just a can. I opened 2 of the four holes inside the muffler and opened the throat in the carb and she is a little screamer.
Just wondering if anyone is running 3/8 vs .325? mine came with a .325 18". I think it could handle a 3/8 20". I know a .325 20' would be no problem the way this saw runs. Great little saw.

Cadenhill

I ran 3/8 (16" bar) on my 154 - until it blew up (leaned out, friend was running it, I heard it start to go, but did not get there in time :( )

20" might be a bit much. It pulled an 18" no problem too - but I liked the 16" because it doubled as a firewood length measuring stick :)

Loved that saw. But I like the NE 346xp I got to replace it too :)
 
I take it back. That is most of the negative stuff I said about 325 pitch. I put a 325 chain, 16" on the 254/154 after I ground and filed it. I'm waiting for the vid to upload. The rackers were taken down to at least 40 thou. (not by me). It cuts with the lower rakers at least as fast as it did with 20 thou rackers and 3/8 with a 13" bar.
John
 
Here's the vid with the 325. All I did was port match gaskets and opened up the restricted filter boot and a slight muff mod.
John

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I take it back. That is most of the negative stuff I said about 325 pitch. I put a 325 chain, 16" on the 254/154 after I ground and filed it. I'm waiting for the vid to upload. The rackers were taken down to at least 40 thou. (not by me). It cuts with the lower rakers at least as fast as it did with 20 thou rackers and 3/8 with a 13" bar.
John

What kind of .325 chain is that and how much is left of the cutters?

- not that it is a surprice, but I always want to know the details.....:cheers:
 
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What kind of .325 chain is that and how much is left of the cutters?

- not that it is a surprice, but I always want to know the details.....:cheers:

It is a chisel Windsor chain and about 3/4 still left. It wasn't grabby, even with the 40 thou rakers. Pushing hard I couldn't pull down the motor. So maybe that's the trick with 325, ie, lower rakers.
John
 
It is a chisel Windsor chain and about 3/4 still left. It wasn't grabby, even with the 40 thou rakers. Pushing hard I couldn't pull down the motor. So maybe that's the trick with 325, ie, lower rakers.
John

The only Windsor chain I have run was really bad - but that is not saying that they all are! :)

Mine were semi-chisel .325s that a dealer got cheap for trials. He gave a couple to me, but they proved soft and hopeless - one even had a cutter that wasn't ground (fast fix, as the steel was soft).....:laugh::laugh:
 
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It seemed I discovered by accident that 325 is good chain with lower rakers, however, with 40 thou rackers hitting anything abrasive, you're gonna be doing alot of filing.
John
 
It seemed I discovered by accident that 325 is good chain with lower rakers, however, with 40 thou rackers hitting anything abrasive, you're gonna be doing alot of filing.
John


Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better! :)
 
Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better! :)

I was thinking that, but I have to look to see if I have an 8T 325. Maybe a 9T with the 13" bar, but I'd be inviting chain throws unless I ground the tail of the bar.
John
 
Way to go, nice runner there. I've been trying to cobble the parts together for one of those for a few years with no luck.
 
It is a chisel Windsor chain and about 3/4 still left. It wasn't grabby, even with the 40 thou rakers. Pushing hard I couldn't pull down the motor. So maybe that's the trick with 325, ie, lower rakers.
John

:clap: there is hope for you yet. Now advance the timing about 1/2 of the flywheel key and go cut wood.
 
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I was thinking I'd not fool with it too much as there's a good market here for used saws. I just opened up the muffler a bit, did some gasket port matching and opened up the restricted filter and boot. I'll leave it 325 as I don't want to get rid of any 16" 3/8 bars. I just need an on/off switch for the 154.
I really want to take out that base gasket though. Lol
I never had much luck advancing timing. So I just file the key thinner and turn it clockwise?
Thanks,
John
 
Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better! :)


ALL my saws with .325 run 8 pin stock from the factory and I keep it that way. Except one 52E that is ported and runs .325 on a 24" bar, that is 7 pin. I always thought it worked very good on a 50cc saw. Never tried the rakers at 40 thou on purpose though!!:cheers:
 
ALL my saws with .325 run 8 pin stock from the factory and I keep it that way. Except one 52E that is ported and runs .325 on a 24" bar, that is 7 pin. I always thought it worked very good on a 50cc saw. Never tried the rakers at 40 thou on purpose though!!:cheers:

Your old Jonsereds may not be representative for what mostly is the best option on newer 50cc saws....:greenchainsaw:
 
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