husqvarna 254 SE

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Your old Jonsereds may not be representative for what mostly is the best option on newer 50cc saws....:greenchainsaw:

Perhaps:agree2: Good point. I suppose it has as much to do with what type/size wood you are cutting too. The newer 50cc saws do turn faster than the older ones thus perhaps not needing the faster chain speed of an 8 pin as much. However I expect, though that may well be the case for a stock modern 50cc saw, a modified newer 50cc saw may be able to produce the extra power to be able to take advantage of an 8 pin and the higher rpm which is what I thought you meant in post #53.:cheers:
 
Perhaps:agree2: Good point. I suppose it has as much to do with what type/size wood you are cutting too. The newer 50cc saws do turn faster than the older ones thus perhaps not needing the faster chain speed of an 8 pin as much. However I expect, though that may well be the case for a stock modern 50cc saw, a modified newer 50cc saw may be able to produce the extra power to be able to take advantage of an 8 pin and the higher rpm which is what I thought you meant in post #53.:cheers:

Yes, you got all that right, as far as I know! :cheers:

The reason I mentioned an 8-pin in this thread is that the saw in question is a 254 - not really a 50cc saw.
 
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Try to replace the low rakers with an 8 pin rim on that saw - that might work even better! :)


HMMMM.....I thought we were talking about .325 and chain speed??? And about whether or not 0.40" rakers with a 7 pin is the best combo.

But where as the 254 is 54cc and not a 50cc saw then I guess my older 49s and 52s that run .325 8 pin are not 50cc saws either.:cheers:
 
Obviously, what should be called a 50cc saw can be discussed, but imo the 254 is a bit large to really fit the designation. :)
 
I also own a 254SE, got it a few years back for $40 for a no start condition....bad fuel!!. I was using it this summer to cut some cherry and it locked up on me after running it for 20 min. Took the jug off and the piston welded itself to the jug. I took it off and brought it to my uncle who has a saw shop, and he fixed the jug and I put a new husky piston and ring in it. It runs great once again. I am looking to Mod this thing out...I think I will start with the intake elbow first. Any other advice?
Thanks
Rich
 
I also own a 254SE, got it a few years back for $40 for a no start condition....bad fuel!!. I was using it this summer to cut some cherry and it locked up on me after running it for 20 min. Took the jug off and the piston welded itself to the jug. I took it off and brought it to my uncle who has a saw shop, and he fixed the jug and I put a new husky piston and ring in it. It runs great once again. I am looking to Mod this thing out...I think I will start with the intake elbow first. Any other advice?
Thanks
Rich
I built one out of 254 and 154 parts. They are a high compression saw already and the one I have is a head banger if you remove the base gasket. The biggest gain is hogging out the intake and muffler mod. I haven't tried advancing the timing though.
John
 
Hogging out the intake I assume, Is the intake elbow? I did that already and the throtttle response improved dramatically!! I did take the muff apart and got rid of the baffle that practically closed it off, now she runs really well, I did make sure that my high speed screw was only set 1 1/2 turns out for fear of a lean condition, I do have a tach and now I can get about 14,000rpm out max
Thanks
Rich
 
Hey guys I have a 254 se I purchased new. I'm told it's a 1987 version. Never gave me trouble till last week when the piston went bad. No scoring in the cylinder. I cannot find a piston, and ring so I can get her back running. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 
Be sure you cure whatever ill killed the piston. They don't go bad on their own. Probably an air leak somewhere. Crank seals. Intake gaskets. Etc....
 
Be sure you cure whatever ill killed the piston. They don't go bad on their own. Probably an air leak somewhere. Crank seals. Intake gaskets. Etc....
I think the rod bearing is too loose. I plan to replace if I can find the correct piston and ring. Husqvarna says unavailable.
 
You need to measure your piston before ordering a replacement from any source, years of manufacture never really guarantees any certain piston size, only measuring will tell you for sure. Cylinders and pistons sometimes get swapped but even a new saw made in a stated year can have a more than one piston/cylinder size.
 
Husqvarna 254

Sorry to highjack the thread like this, but thought this may be relevant... So there are several version of this was - 254 , 254SE and 254XP . How are they different from one another? I'd assume that the XP is somehow better? But by how much exactly, or is is just a new marketing name/strategy for basically the same saw?

Thanks!
Think it's just the flywheel cover something to do with the cooling not sure the xp got more power though
 
I believe the 254 just became the 254xp when they started using the "xp" designation to disinguish the best pro saws from the others - just marketing.

Btw, I suspect there never was a "SE" variant, all I have seen have either been 254/254G or 254xp/xpg......

As with most other models made for a long time, they evolved trough production, but that has little to do with xp/non-xp.

Similar stories happened to several Husky models in the late 1980s-early 1990s.
I know this is an ancient thread but I just picked up a 254SE and figured I would add this
 

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